Throttle Body Fuel injection is my favorite.
Simple. Robust. And does the job with easy see-do understandings. One to two BIG openings low pressure fed injectors that do not deposits clog. Low pressure fuel pumps that last and last and last.
Used some with liquid gasoline; the gasoline will help wash the intake soots down and though the engine combustion.
JanA. adapting is basically the same as with individual to the port fuel injection.
Seal up and mix in the air cleaner space before the throttle body.
A couple of things to watch out for:
Being low pressure means low closing spring tension on the injectors so at deceleration/high intake manifold, gasoline can then be siphon sucked into the intake. Mike LaRosa found ways around this on his GM systems.
Also many TBI systems put the Barometric pressure sensors built into the actual throttle body assembly. Enclosed and then seeing negative pressures skews off their input to the electronic controller. Track down the Baro-sensor atmospheric side; to know if you have to rejigger for this. Clogged air filter would cause this commonly. Tune and verify without the air filter or air cleaner box installed - declare good: and then assemble and turn back to a customer, usually resulted in a come-back compliant.
Look up Mike LaRosa’s @ook187 topics and posts where he talks about woodgasing his GM four and six cylinder TBI’s.
Regards
Steve Unruh
I looked at how much wood goes in different containers, the ones I was thinking about buying are 95 liters (25g) the low one on the car is 103 liters (26g) and the high one on the car is 113 liters.(30g)
I have to make a lid for the low one on the car, so I can make it a little higher so I can fit more wood in.
My wood container on my other car is 157 liters,(40g) which I think is good.
Now I’m confused again which one should I go for?
Personally I would go for the lower setup in the first pic. I find that size to be enough 95% of the trips I make. Also, a lot easier to light up, and if you like to inspect nozzles or so.
However, I think it works well with a little more wood, I only had 1 wash pot to start with on the old S10, and I thought it was much better with about 50% more wood, there is quite a lot left most of the time when I run it too, but it is very dry next time, which is good.
Ignition is not a problem with the weed burner, if it is not too cold.
I was thinking about whether I should make a pipe next to the nozzles and light it through it, it seems better to light directly into the coals instead of risking driving fresh wood into the coals when lighting it.
But it looks much better when it is not so high, but loses a little cooling.
The higher your hopper is above the car the more the wind will push against it causing slower speeds driving into a head wind going down the road. It does make a differance when driving over 45 mph. or 72.4 kph.
I had second thoughts, and thought I’d show you a little bit about how I do it, I hope you’ll give me your thoughts and suggestions before I finish it completely, but this is what my unit that I’ve been using for 4-5 years on the S10 looks like.
Now I’ve done as you suggested, @JO_Olsson JO, it’s probably good for inspection too, do you have any good idea how I can make the cover?
An oil pan lid is too small, and the rim is very narrow and thin, under 1mm.
Jan, if you can’t find a lid that fits I guess you have no choice but fabricating one. Maybe cut a donut from a sturdy sheet which will in turn fit a barrel lid. In that area welding isn’t necessary. You could just sandwich the donut to that lip with some silicone and a few tiny bolts and nuts holding it together.
My fillerlid’s necks are only “spot welded” to the barrel lids and silicone does the rest. It holds up very well - better than the actual barrel lid metal. I belive it’s important though, to smear the silicone from the outside. Not only because the hopper holds negative pressure, but also because hopper juice turns the silicone to jelly.
I did not know that about the hopper juice, JO. Living and learning. One way I made a filter container, Jan, was to take a metal garbage can. https://www.instacart.com/products/18857100-behrens-galvanized-steel-trash-can-with-lid-31-gal? and slit a length of air hose to fit over the edge of the container. I carefully hammered out the lid edge a little so it would fit over the hose. it sealed and worked for me. I added a couple of hoops inside the can to keep it from collapsing. You could do something similar with your container if you stitch welded a piece of banding around a flat lid and sealed the rest of the joint with HT silicone.
Almost done but as usual I made a mistake, when I welded the edge to the lid I welded all the way, thinking that the thin plate can’t bend that much, well it could.
I’ve tried pop riveting the entire edge, but it probably won’t be tight, I guess.
Mr. Wayne, @Wayne I think I saw one of your trucks with radiator pipes only on the front of the bed, if so, does it work well, or is the cooling too poor from the gas.
I would like to have more of my bed left for wood transport hence the question.
i think that depends on length, number and cross sections of tubes.
better not to make any barriers in lower manifold, they would make cleaning more complicated.
i would make something like this
I make them like your bottom drawing, Jan. The top one may be slightly more effective at cooling and would work if you put threaded caps in the top header directly above the vertical tubes so they could be washed out. You would need both ends of the bottom header capped. Not sure if it would be worth the extra effort.
The gases will move slower through the 3 passage way. Than with just one passage way of the same length. This will give more time to cool the gases down. If mounted on a car. The same amount of air will flow over the ether set up. But there is more cooling surface on a the 3 tube set up with the gases moving through the pipes with less gas flow restriction.
