yes, i think also to fix the gasifier on the left side, near the toolbox, for balance reason…is also the only place where is enough space for it…
this motor was no kerosene motor more…the tank has only one chamber for gasoline…i guess it has a “ricardo” styled motorhead, so limited possibility to grind down…
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today we worked on the walves
two bolts completely rusted in , at least they were broken , though trying to move them with heat…
making new threads…
leaving the valves…discovered that the oil cup of the exhaust valve was not on his valve rod…
i think a mistake from a recent mechanican intervention…
i wondered in the morning why the exhaust valve only opens half high…i guess the motor not runs fine in this way…
valve preparing for screwdriver…
valve grinding…
motorhead grinding
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only the motorhead gasket makes me think…
what are saying our experts: can this be repaired with sealant???
the copper part is mostly ok, only on the exhaust side are this damages…
if making new - like tone has done with his jenbacher- i wonder if i can also use fine alluminium sheet?
copper i have here only with 0,8mm, tone used 0,6 mm, …0,8 maybee is not soft enough ?
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Hi Giorgio, this Acme engine is designed to run on gasoline, it has a compression ratio of 1:5.5, unlike the engine that Kristjan has, which has a CR of 1:4.5. If you decide to make a gasket from copper sheet 0.8 mm, the CR will increase even more, I also inserted a copper gasket at Jenbacher, which I previously heated to red and cooled in water, so it becomes very soft and adapts well to the surface . Before assembly, I also lubricated the seal with Victor Reinz sealing compound, so the seal will be 100%. I would recommend that you check the piston rings and clean the grooves in the piston. It will be necessary to dismantle the engine cylinder, this will also damage the seal between the engine block and the cylinder, you will only seal this joint with sealant during assembly and you will get something on the compression ratio again, probably the CR will be increased to approx. 1:7. Insert the piston ring into the cylinder and check the distance between the ends, which must not be greater than 0.4 mm, otherwise install new rings.
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thank you tone for the tips…and the acme pdf…
with the gasket i will make a try (and hopely no error!) with the aluminia sheet with 0,5 mm, very soft aluminia…i tried it without sealant, only for a experiment, and the motor has a lot of compression, seems like as my diesels, the flywheel is hard to turn over the compression point.
for the moment i will not leave the cylinder, also his original cylinder foot gasket is just very thin, so there is not to take more compression in this case.
i have tried now to seal with würth sealing 200 degree celsius, but i dont know if it keeps up…it is a try , also on my motorcultivator the head gasket is sealed with simil stuff, the red one…
the reinzosil (350 degree celsius) i will conserve for the fiat, maybee there is also to open the motorhead, valve grinding ecc…shurely than the old klingerit gasket get damaged , and i must make a new one…
therefore a question or two:
you heat up to red hot the copper sheet in your forge or more punctually with a gas flame?
you heat the complete sheet piece before cutting out the gasket form, the holes ecc?
or you cut first the form and heat after?
nice weather we have actually so the outdoor workshop runs…
thanks and ciao giorgio
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I cut out the shape of the gasket first and then heated it up before installing, I used a gas burner because it’s easier and faster. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with heating and softening the sheet before trimming and punching, it will probably make it easier to trim, but the sheet will harden a bit during bending, and it needs to be reheated before assembly.
Hi , Tony.
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here a foto what i have forgot …the right valve rod oil cup was forgotten from a previous mechanican to set it on his right place…luckily it was inside in the valve box in one corner…
here a selfmade tool for cutting whitworth threads in plastic, 3/4 inch water pipe…
for the gas tube adapter on the gasoline carburettor…
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basement for gasifier
simple fixing with 4 clamps
good balanced- 4-6 kg on the handles for bending down
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also with the racing cart is some work to do…all is a bit bended from the previous owner before my neighbour…
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some progress with the bcs mower…i am not so convinced with the plastic solution, so we made a reconstruction of the original also existing metal version, only slightly modyfied with 2 springs and a longer rubber piece for more elasticity
a foto from the original metal version from my neighbours mower…
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I’ve said it before: Giorgio you are a master builder 
Are the plastic one made to break easy, when hitting a rock for example?
Like on the older ones for tractors, with the wood connecing rod?
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Very nicely made Giorgio with the rubber and springs vibration dampeners too to go a bit easy on the back and forward bit (I couldn’t spell recipr…. It just looked wrong no matter how I wrote it and I couldn’t be arsed to look it up 
))
I would think that either it has evolved to plastic because of problems occurring breaking or bending other less easily replaceable/cheap things or it has plastic just as a cheaper option.
This is my thinking based on the fact that his neighbour had a metal one on his and that seems to work.
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on my neighbours old mower originally was a plastic rod, but he found somewhere the metal rod and has replaced it, because of often breaks by thicker thorn stems…
another neighbour replaced the plastic rod every year…both rods are from bcs company…
the mower runs well on chargas, starts at first strike…with the gasifier of the red bear mower…
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Giorgio, great work as always.
I have probably mowed well in to triple digits of hectares, rough terrain with stones and brush, and not ever had a plastic rod fail. Perhaps ours are of better quality? Anyways, my father in law also says he prefers them to old metal ones. Says they get noisy. But l newer mowed with ametal one so l cant say.
Its true thugh that plastic ones dont have any dampening apart from plastic itself
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I suspect the plastic is designed to break like a sheer pin. If you hit a metal stake or a metal fencepost with it, it sheers without damaging anything else. The ones on a tractor that I have used all had sheer pins.
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filling charcoal til a bit over the nozzle, stirring a bit, igniting with alcool…
blowing with the hand blower…
filling up completely , stirring a bit, blowing till smoke comes up with open lid…
lid close, , blowing…
time from igniting with alcool til getting good gas on the filter valve : 4 minutes
gas to the starting valve…
secondary air regulation…ready for start , from alc igniting til motor runs: 6 minutes
egr regulation…
while closing slowly the secondary air starter valve, opening the valve after the filter-cooler…
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