Thrive Off Grid

No its pretty well vented for that reason, I ran it last night with no issues with heat.

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Im just going to use a small 9 volt battery with a momentary switch. It will be isolated from the system. So once you get it started you will just press this button to initiate the field and then the system voltage will take over. Simple and compact this way, just use rechargeable batteries for this but a battery just doing this will last a long long time like years long time if the battery is good quality.

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Multi V is nice for efficiency.

Impressive again Matt. You are faster then Luky Luke

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Battery 23A 12V photo , ceiling fan remote

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I donā€™t think itā€™s common but some alternators have a small permanent magnet ā€œalternatorā€ ganged to the same shaft as the main one with just enough power to bootstrap field excitation.

That said, much better to use a stock part thatā€™s easy to source and replace than go with something more unusual and likely substantially more expensive.

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Exell Alkaline Battery A220/504A Replaces NEDA 220 Eveready 504

The A220/504A (Eveready 504 or NEDA 220) battery is Alkaline and cylindrical. It is the perfect replacement for the hard to find Eveready 504. The original Eveready 504 is Carbon Zinc and a rounded-off square in cross section (Height: 34.9 mm, Length: 15.1 mm, Width: 15.9 mm). This Alkaline A220/504A battery is a fine replacement.

These 220 (Eveready 504, Rayovac 220 or BLR154) batteries have a shelf life in excess of four years. Why not buy two or more packs, take advantage of our reduced price and make sure you are not left unable to use your camera or pistol next time your battery runs out.

Specifications:

  • Type: Alkaline
  • Voltage: 15V
  • Amperage: 60mAh
  • Length: 34.9 mm
  • Diameter: 15.1
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Well right now, Im just running it as a DC charger. So I have the field wired directly into the battery power supply with a simple On/Off Switch. Get the gasser going, pull the pull start get it set and running and simply hit the switch.

I did have a major issue with the LS alternator. I actually do not know the part number other than this is a 105 amp alternator for all LS based engines. But something screwing is going on with. After I energized the field nothing would happen and then suddenly it loaded down and stalled the engine. Got it going again and was getting 16 volts output, belt slipping away and burning up.

So I ended up yanking it off there and designed a new bracket for the 12S Delco I have that I used for this before. So I now have that bracket as an alternitive. I but I really like how the LS alternator is set up, it gives me a solid mount configuration that is simpler and over all they are just more modern and nicer looking. But function first, so that is where Im at.

I charged my RV bank for the first time with it today running on the M-1 Max. It off now and on stand by with a full hopper ready to go for the next cycle.

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Yeah Im goint to take it in and have it tested. It should not act like that. I have a 4.8 LS engine sitting here for a project and it only has the one wire out of the four in the connector. However, it is not the one I initially used. The plug socket on the alt side is labeled with spot I/F, so I assumed this was the input for the field terminal. Not on the stock plug though it is the one next to it or the second pin over. I hope I didnt fry something having it connected wrong. It was brand new alternator never used, it was for the Ebike project that is now shelved.

So ill get it checked out, but I suspect something is very wrong with it now as now it is always on with out any input. It fried the belt in a heart beat so I did not get a chance to really even try and troubleshoot it.

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Well Tom after today, I am going to add upper vents. After a good long run today it did get a bit warm. Probably ok but I think it could be better. The reason its the way it is; is to reduce the noise. But excessive heat build up trumps that :slight_smile:

No biggy when you have a CNC machine :fire:

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I always wondered how my little inverter generator would run all day with no heat problem enclosed in a case like that and yet I have seen people put them in a box on an RV and they overheat in a few minutes.

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If the case was metal like mine. It would also get hot just like mine. The engines in those inveter gens are getting hot and they are subject to short life spans. I know this very well. I have a 3500 watt inveter gen that is now junk.

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@SteveUnruh I tried to visit your link but received a 404 not found message. Is this the URL you meant? https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/092007_10.pdf

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ā€œā€ā€œNever route a jumper wire
directly from battery positive to terminal L because it will almost certainly
toast the voltage regulatorā€""

lol opps!!

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Life is about learning. What an excellent article.

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Did I ever tell you about the time I built an air plane? Yup I built an RC nitro power model airplane back in the day. It took me about three years off and on building this thing and the day finally came to fly it. It took off and up it went, but once air born Im like now what?? So I tried to make a turn and right then a big gust of wind came along and slammed it to the ground. lol

Well this stove is sort of like the air plane, I can build it but I ended up hafting to learn how to use it. I am now quite successful with this stove. The intake damping controls ended up working just the opposite of how I had envisioned. But as long as design goals are met, that all that matters. This thing is now fully self sustaining and as long as I dont mess with it, smoke emissions are zero!!. Like the gasifiers this reactor is borrowed from there is no back drafting or smoke in the hopper. Hopper stays clean as a whistle. Cook top is sustaining 380*f but the chimney is short and only 3 inch. So Im sure I can get much more, plus agitating the grate will boost this up as well.

It will make charcoal on demand as designed. So it has now met all design goals. I will need to make the air intake port for the second stage combustion larger. I finally figured this out when cleaning it and had the door open. It started full combustion as it is supposed to. So I played with cracking the door open and observing operation. I then removed the damper cap completely and that got it working and sustaining all combustion processes. The damper cap is just too restrictive when its on the unit. So I think it just needs a larger port, the cap is also a spark arrestor so it is important to have on the unit.

In 40*f weather I need all the windows, vents and the door open :fire:

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ha matt i hope that stuff on the chimney is not creasote at least not after a couple runs or the air police will be throwing you in that terrist jail ha ha. but realy does it make that much creasote or was that from some other projects . I only notest it because I am a chimney cleaner and i walk into that type of mess all the time.

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Its from testing and tuning it. Its not making that anymore as shown there is no smoke emissions. If you read my prior post about the plane crashing, that tar / creasote is result of me crashing this stove. I have recovered and learned how to use it now. What Im trying to relay here, just because I built it, that does not mean I know how to fly it.

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There are four combustion processes happening inside this stove.

There is the purge air intake that keeps combustion gases at bay and then this feeds to core of the hearth primary combustion process. This is the primary oxidation / pyrolysis zone.

Then there is a second inlet here that oxidized the parameter of the fuel in the hearth. These two stages work together to strip the fuel down to carbon just like in our gasifiers.

The 3rd and 4th stage are where this differs from our engine gasifier plants.

The 3rd stage feeds air under the grate to oxidize the carbon bed, so here we are basically creating char gas while also passing the raw Pyrolysis gas through this hot carbon bed processing that gas much like our engine gasifiers.

As these gases exit the top side of the carbon bed, the final stage feeds air for final stage combustion to fully burn the resulting gases. At this stage these gases are not like any ordinary stove. These gases are just like when you are flaring your gasifiers. If you are making good gas you dont see any smoke right? Same here, these gases at final stage are refined and fully burn off.

What I had to learn was how to balance all this. The video and what i show coming out that chimney is the result of finding that balance. The tar is the result of getting there.

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Guitar player huh? I knew I liked you. Iā€™m a player. Never got very good but I have amused myself. Just play acoustic now. Watch a lot of Joe Bonamassa video and wonder if I would have traded my soul to play like that.

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I play both right and left guitar

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