Tom, I saw this too. I have both. The Honda was put into service in 2010, still going strong, although seems to burn some oil now. I should add, I use the Honda nearly every day.
I bought a predator generator with 2000 hours on it and have been using it continuously as well. Its voltage regulator failed once , and was replaced for $15. It’s burning a little bit of oil. The predator is easy to start and reliable. It is hard on the brush motors when they start.
I think the cheaper engines tend to die sooner because people take less care of them, “it’s cheap I’ll change the oil when I remember”, “why should I bother changing the rings I’ll just get a new engine”
Real nice trick Marcus, That is one trick i dont think i ever tried, I would drive a small hard drift into the edge by your screw hole, and knocked them out that way, But i like your trick much better, lass chance of damage the seal mount surface’s with your seal remover trick. SUPER-GOOD IDEA.
Yes, almost exactly the way I evolved to do seals removal too. Those front of engine high-milage timing belts replacements, if done well, you have a front crank seal, and up four cam seals to do. Gotta’ be fast, safe and non-damaging!
I’d cordless power drill a 1/32 hole first. Use short SS sheet metal screws and two opposing pry tools, for a back and forth rocking out. Marcus’s single screw tapping in does loosen up the seal probably better.
Ha! As Marcus knows DO NOT USE a bodymans slide-knocker tool on these puller screws! No “feel” at all to that. More often then not, you’ll rip the screw out and have to start over.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Extremely difficult to overcome the impulse of " Iv got the powa!" when using a slide hammer attachment, BUT, I have run into some instances where there was not a good area to get leverage with the pry bar and did use a slide hammer but it is a gentle tug not a sharp smack which as you said will very quickly rip the screw right out.
If I recall last time I had to do that method was a all wheel drive bmw? Front transfer case out put shaft seal. And I did pull the screw a few times before I got it out of there! Flat rate pay makes you work too fast some times…
Cody, when we emailed about making slip rolls, I mentioned using take-up bearings for the adjustable roller supports. I was looking at the recent catalog from surplus supply and they have take-up bearings for sale pretty cheaply.
Kent
This charger has brought so many batteries back from the dead. It’s also serviceable, and quiet.
I’m charging an abused lead acid wet cell battery that my mom left depleted over the summer to now in the garden shed, she uses it to power a sprayer.
All of my other chargers gave up on the battery because it read only 6 Volts according to my multimeter. Way past dead for the new whizbang “smart chargers”.
These I think are far smarter than the computerized ones we have now. This charger actually started by supplying .5 Amps of current to the battery to slowly bring it up, and now it’s trickling at 2 amps. I’m going to let it charge overnight and then let the battery sit uncharged for an hour to see if I need to zap it with the welder to desulfate.
If you ever get the chance to buy a Transistorized battery charger, jump on it. This has been in constant use since my grandpa bought it God only knows when. 50-60 years minimum.
This was interesting. The hundred dollar saw performed close to what the Stihl did and for the difference in price you could buy 5 of the chinese knock offs.
i have ordered a used air compressor for the always flat tires of my hanomag…has someone a idea what oil is needed in the compressor? does a normal 15-40 motor oil work? or is needed a special oil…i have read about both possibilities …who has experience
thanks giorgio
Hi Giorgio, i believe ordinary motor oil works, but compressor oil i’ve found cheaper than motor oil, but it can vary some.
Compressor oil use to be classified as “ash free” so “low ash” motor oil should work i believe?
