Hi All,
CodyT. just fought his way through old rusty exhaust manifold to header pipe clamping studs.
Here is a video that recommended loaded up well worth watching.
Hang pause at 10:24 when he realizes he missed one on his initial breaking-all loosening:
At 12:50 listen to his advice to fully coat the bolt shoulder/shank with anti-seize too on installing. How I learned to do it also. Keeps from re-occuring heat rusting stuck. Figuring you will be that next-guy; removing.
What trick I will add is on studs threads and bolt-throughs with exposed threads DO take the time to SS toothbrush off as much you can rust corrosions. Left on, these will break loose, powder and jam up nut removal.
And a loosened wanting to then bind like this guy shows twice: after heating here is the time/place to touch melt in some crayon wax.
S.U.
I hadn’t thought of a crayon, but I know candle wax works real well. I put wax on lug nuts. It makes them easier to get off and it stays on there for a really long time, so the next guy isn’t going to break a stud or anything like that.
Rindert
You could improve on it by making it front wheel drive, and use big coil springs like they used to use on the playground rocking toys, and maybe move the foot pegs back so you can stand on it and rock it. Then to keep it safe, and to keep with the motif, you would have to have long chopper front forks with like 3/4" thick metal fenders. Having someone else rocking it is kind of lame.
Then you too could be a star in a almost killer viral youtube video!
I have a trommel that is somewhat longer than this one. I use it mainly for separating the finished compost from the leaf mold. I haven’t found it that useful for the amount of char I do at one time. Same thing for worm castings. I usually save my wood stove char and ash in a 25 gallon metal trash can and then sift it and grind it when that is full. By the time I sift out the ash and then grind the char and separate the fines from the fuel it just seems less involved to do it with boxed screens vibrated with a roto hammer. I have been thinking about building two smaller trommels like the one in the video with quarter and eighth inch screens which would work for char and castings. Takes about a hour to process the 25 gallons the way I’m doing it now which includes grinding by hand.
if it is “good” brittle char, you can drop a rock or something to tumble in the trommel, and that will break up the char. Mine was that size, but inside I had another ‘large’ screen attached to a bucket lid with about a 3" gap between the screens and I used the bottom part of a water bottle filled with cement but rocks worked as well. I turned it with a 1/6hp 1750rpm motor.
The main issue I had was the hole wasn’t big enough, after I left a 3" gap around the outside, it was too small and the other was I had too many brands so I had to stop all the time to pull them out. Otherwise even with my crappy assembly it worked well with good char.
It skips the grinding and sorting twice. But it is pretty easy to screen right into a wheelbarrow as well.
Need to start doing this with all of my solid topped plastic drums I’ve gathered from the old job. Might be a good way to sweat some moisture out of wood chunks if you have the black drums.
Great Idea CodyT.
I have 2-3 that did have the tops cut off, then that cut off top discarded. Land leaser cleaning up I got them this way. They always go very not round then in any kind of open topped usage.
The top flipped; flanging-lapping, would keep them round.
Most of my intact barrels on the normal inset top do have factory drilled small drain holes.
I had to plug these winter raining water out in the open catching/filling to let the rain water caught; pool, and drip-fill down in the open bung holes. 88" to 122" of rain a year here they would fill by sometime in December-January. Some barrels I even had to V-notch the raised bung hole edge for gravity filling.
Cut off and flipped over a fellow just needs to edge drill his own perimeter drain holes.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Does anyone have any experience with electric fencing for gardens? Normally I don’t worry about it and lose a lot of what I produce to critters, since I’m gardening on the edge of a swamp, but this year is different. I can probably rig up a way to keep deer out, but rabbits, racoon, possum and porcupines and other large rodents are abundant and all good climbers and crafty. Regular fencing just amuses them. I’m only protecting an area about a hundred foot square.
Tom, rabbits, deer and other edibles in my garden wuld be a good problem to have we got none of that.
Even thugh the above is mostly true, l understand your frustration. In my experiances there is no one size fits all solution, and you realy need a mixed defence strategy of at least 2. Fence + electricity has worked decently for me. Im also adding barb wire this time, goats seem to know when the power is down or low due to grass short circuiting the fence.
TomH unless you’ve changed to up-close and visible to the house for your gardening no matter what you do your deterrants will have failures.
With electricity the critters you are trying to keep in; or out; will learn to watch for power outs.
Low wire like to keep pigs in then an individual or another learns challenging that wire to burrow push up dirt shorting out the fence. Goats playing tag with each other; or get close chicken daring each other will body slam and break a wire. Dog will excited take the shock and bound over and out; or past; and be stuck on the outside then.
Growing grasses, tendril vines always growing up and shorting out the fence. High died; wind swept off limbs will take down your electric wire.
Electric works when you have a pre-teen/early teen younger whose job to earn allownces is to keep the electric fencing up intact and working. patrolling at least twice each and every day. Along with a given to them bounty for shot retrieved critters. Incentive to actually get out and work it.
Back to reality; supportable . . . .
Moderate woven fencing to slow the incoming critters down. Establish a boundary paroling barrier for the 2-3 dogs roving you will need. And that fence tight and durable enough to dog chased trap the critter on the chase out. You do want dog killed critters. Not dog-toy tease repeats.
And the dogs work well as driveway alarms.
Stranger people alerters.
Known friends greeters.
Hungary opportunistic wild critter are no different than keeping back the water with dikes; directing retained water flowing with damns; keeping the rain and snow off of your head with roofs. Like gravity these will always be pushing, pressing, 24/7/365.
So from a practical stand point you are really only cutting down your grown losses to acceptable minimums. Accepting you will have to pay some out as overhead expenses as just the price of doing business. Doing the activity.
When does your life end? When you quit defying gravity to do his worst wanting always to pull you down into his center. When you stop defying entropy.
Steve unruh
Hi Tom. We used a couple of 150’ portable electric poultry fencing 4 feet high when running hens/chickens on pasture with a solarcharging car battery 10000V 4 joule fence shocker to keep predators and other things out which works well until an animal jumps on the fence bringing it to the ground and shorts the electricity before it’s paws lands. I also cut the bottom strand’s power wire to be able to have it in a little higher grass.
If you go this route I recommend double prongs over single in the ground (easier to get in the ground with your foot) and aluminium poles over plastic, they bend too easily.
Electricity netting needs a much more powerful fence energizer/shocker than regular fencing.
It also mostly worked because we moved them every other day so there is not a long attack planning time for a predator, I imagine you won’t move your garden around much
we got none of that.