One can never have too cool gas? 
Yes, maybe a little on the bigger side.
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Was on a test drive today, not on char-gas yet, just to see how it behave’s, little heavy in the back maybe, easy to do wheelies. 
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The picture was deceiving Goran. It made that cooler look much bigger than it actually is. I love to see a plan come together.
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Just catching up reading. Constant flush? How is that organised? In my head my build us finished , just cleaning the flush water is a point of attention. Thinking of a liquid cyclone right now. Someone had a liquid cooled filter/ cooler in the past. I think it was Kevin. He had lots of problems with clogging. How did you fix that, if I may ask?
Working 60-70 hours a week is to much for my old body. It doesnt give room for real woodgas. Sorry.
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Hi Joep, by constant flush you mean the discussion about coolers earlier this thread?
It works that way in older systems that the gas is very moist, and brings even more water from the scrubbing stage before the cooler, this water then, due to slower gas speed, temperature drop, just runs back in the cooling pipes, flushing them. In these systems even the cooler sort of, contributes to the gas cleaning, condensation droplets forming on small soot particles, carrying them down. Older systems often need a weekly flush/cleaning to not clog up because the greater amount of soot/ash/tar, and due to cooler mounted before the “final” filter.
On the “modern” systems, like the finn’s use for example, the gas is forced through water, to carry some water up the piping wich constantly runs back, flushing the piping, in these systems the final filter is mounted before the cooler, a effective fabric filter that keeps the cooler clean.
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Joep, there are 168 hours in a week. What do you do with all the rest of them? Don’t tell me you play golf 
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Thanks, can you point me in some direction.
I played with charcoal and had miced results. Last test was a water cooled drizzler and that one functioned some sort of. I think mainly because the hot gases are cooled down very fast. No time for degradadation. It gave a strong flare. Watercooling should be closed loop. Easy cleaning is important to have it running without to much maintanance.
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Vesa Mikkonen sells his book that shows the design Goran is talking about.
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Haha. Tried it some time ago. Good for talking and business, but never got around to actually play. I dont need extra business anyway.
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I’m not familiar with the idea of forcing gas through water but my father had a Charter fishing boat with two small block chevy engines for power. They had water cooled exhaust manifolds. Water jackets around the manifolds recycling the lake water through them. I have not gotten to it yet but I plan to make a similar system for cooling wood gas. A small pump will be required to recirculate the water through a radiator but not a complex design. I’m wondering if you were to box around your copper cooler even without re-circulation would it be a benefit for much cooler gas.
Just to be clear. I’m not talking about anything elaborate. Just this metal track bent into a square with a couple of thin metal sheets siliconed to each side.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-625-in-W-x-120-in-L-x-1-25-in-D-ProTRAK-Galvanized-Steel-Track/3369242?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--bdm--ggl--LIA_BDM_248_Drywall-And-Ceilings--3369242--local--0-_-0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-LXyurK_9wIVKfLjBx3TJwBSEAQYAiABEgL-sfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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I know, just toy’s, no real woodgas, but the moped starts to come together, the filter is ready, a “sock” made of an old curtain, 100% cotton, a “spring” made of wire inside.
A “super-simple” spring-loaded lid.
I found a piece of plastic hose from an old dust ventilator, i hope this will hold up.
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Hi Goran , Looking forward to the fire up video .
If you get a your hands on some real lambs wool socks they might work out better than cotton for filtering and also a lot easier to clean and wash out afterwards
Dave
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Hi Dave, thanks for the tip about wool socks, i try this cotton first to see how it works, but i should definitely look for some good wool fabric.
The first light-up getting closer, going to mount this mattress blower for a start-up fan.
I guess it’s time to find the courage to try make a video
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If a woods hermit like me can make a video then I’m sure you could. Don’t feel like you have to speak in English, heck you could speak in arm waving and caveman grunts and I’d still understand.
Edit:
I might make a lightup video of just grunting.
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Feels like day before Christmas. Really looking forward to this moped video 
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Indeed. Your moped and Tones tractor, seems Christmas did come early this year!
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It is always a treat to see DOW projects coming together. Keep it coming.
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Thanks guy’s, yes it’s going to be a video soon until then a little teaser, i’ve mounted the blower and a valve to shut it off.
Lot’s of stuff this little moped has to carry around.
Since i pull the gas out from the ash clean-out, i put a piece of mesh inside, to stop bigger charcoal pieces.
The ash clean-out lid, guess the nice forum where i learned about “soaking” stove rope in rtv silicone?
And it started! I just had to try, the video is coming when i make some more serious attempts, this was just a try to flare, and then; i try if it’s runs on chargas! It ran about 40 seconds, not so well, but it’s a “half victory” i think.
I guess some problems was damp charcoal, i got about 1 cubic meter of charcoal in heavy plastic bags, but the
jackdaws? (noisy black birds that like to spread an unattended garbage bag over an acre) has made holes at strategic places, so all of the charcoal is wet after the winter.I also think i made to big pieces, (somewhat exited to light it up).
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göran, in ecuador and columbia they have made a project with charcoal gasifiers …because of the wet tropic climate the charcoal gets very quick to wet for starting the engines…so they ventilated the lighted coal with open hopper lid for a quarter of an hour, than works well…
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Hi all, little updates,
When i built my gasifier for the Chevy i bolted it together with flanges, i’ve tried that before, and it’s nothing i recomend, it’s cumbersome to take apart and inspect, anyway, when i built it, a friend worked at a shop where hed run a cnc-laser cutter, and he could “sneak in” the flanges i needed, into cut-outs from the work he did there, couldnt say no to laser-cut, stainless flanges for free, and it was easy fabricating at the time.
I used stainless bolts, 8mm, going througt the 3 flanges, with special lock-washers to keep them from spinning, worked great, but NOT when i pulled it apart, 1 out 20 bolts i was able to loosen the nut, the others i had to cut.
I knowed this should be a problem, with the bolt’s head’s located in the condensate gutter, down the fuel bin.
For now im going with short pieces of stainless threaded rod instead, today i got my blind-rivet nuts, or: pop-nuts, stainless with recessed heads.
I wanted the type with one end closed, “pressure-tight” but these was extremely expensive, and sold in packages of 1000
Going to work on it this weekend.
Got a “historic piece” today also: woodgas-matches, i have a small collection of these, trying to get an example of every type marketed during ww2.
Tre stjärnor=three stars, big brand of matches in Sweden.
These ar big ones, actually contains a type of thermite, im going to show some in a video in the future.
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