Your secret in your flavor for the meats.
Bob
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Going slowly forward with the repairing of the gasifier, today i got some time left to clean up the condensate gutter/ condensing hopper, i know i’ve been careless sometimes, burning fuel level way to low, wich heats the lower part of hopper, burns tar and stuff to a hard “crust”, but this was maybe worse than expected, im really considering to install some kind of hopper temp gauge, as i understand many of you guy’s use.
Anyways i had to bring on some mean equipment, air-needle-hammer/chisel.
This “cake” was burned stuck on the cone/funnel in bottom of hopper.
Cleaned up, just to emptying the loose stuff.
Started some with drilling bigger holes in the flange, for mounting of rivet nuts, had no good drill-bits, stainless is no fun to drill
Have used some “cobalt alloy” bits before, those really can handle stainless, but are horribly expensive
Edit: just noticed i have to change out the filling lid too, one can see daylight shining through, maybe the vibrations from the needle hammer made some tarred up rust-flakes fall of?
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Here is a video of tests for various drill bits Goran. Probably most not available in Sweden. I have never gotten the same results drilling stainless that he got. You are right. It’s no fun. I think that the difference here is that he is using a drill press with the right RPM and downward pressure, not obtainable with a hand held drill.
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TomH;
For sure for sure!! Anything I can fit onto my drill press I do, as apposed to a hand drill. TomC
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I do the same, especially stainless or anything over half inch hole. I twisted my wrist badly when I was young when a drill got away from me. Pain is a good teacher, drill press is your friend. But make sure you use the clamp, the drill press vice hurts when it comes flying off at high speed attached to a drill bit ask me how I know
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Thanks for the suggestions guy’s, yes stainless is cumbersome to drill, slow speed and much pressure use to do the job, im going to get a drill bit today, one of them hss-co i think they are called.
I also have an old air-powered, slow speed high torque hand drill im going to try to repair, it’s the type with a long, pivoting lever that is used to attach a chain to give extreme pressure, and help to hold it, not rotating in your hands.
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Finally found a good drill-bit, hss-co, but i didn’t found my old high-torque drill, so i made my own, used an old Black&Decker electric, two speed gearbox, the motor was burned. I cut the motor axle and let the air-drill grip the axle-piece left, then made a “frame” and a lever to get some real pressure, im surprised it worked very well, turned extremely slow and strong.
The lever and chain with a “hook” is used to press the drill, the lever also helps to hold it, if tries to turn in your hands.
Countersinking the holes.
I made this contraption for easy mounting of the pop-nuts. Basically a strong steel-bolt, a axial force bearing and a “long” or high nut.
Pop-nut inserts in place.
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That is the ingenuity that makes DOW work
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I failed to completely appreciate the genius of what you were doing in the pictures Goran. Now you put a big smile on my face.
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Thank you guy’s, i just try to make things, with what i have on hand 
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I’ve added a water-drip to the charcoal moped today, haven’t test-drive it yet, i have to sort out some charcoal.
Water tank, made of an old ss thermos flask.
Dripping “nozzle”
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Here in Finland it’s still used for example making wooden boat to stay good.
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Welcome Kari. We will be interested in learning more about your interests.
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Göran, you mentioned a while back you were making a moped video…
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Yes, JO, i think im ready mentally, it’s just a little fine tuning of the moped left. Wife promised to help with the “producing” of a Youtube video.
So, it’s coming, 
And ofcourse i need to come up with a faster way to prepare fuel for it, charcoal i have, but crush it with my hands and sort it, piece by piece, somewhat takes a little of the fun out of it… 
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Goran, I use 1/8" square sized wire mesh for the small size and 1/2" for the larger size on my smaller gasifiers.
Matt has said he uses a shovel edge to crush the charcoal when it’s in the barrel.
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Thanks Cody, thats good information, im just into start building a sifter, i found some mesh, square 15 mm, wich is somewhat bigger than 1/2", im thinking about using that, i also got some perforated sheet, 1/4" round holes, im probably going to use as bottom, fines and dust passing that should be fine as biochar for compost i believe?
Edit: just checked the perforated sheet, seems the holes are 4mm (smaller than 1/4")
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Check out the Agros pictures, you can see the easy way to crush and sceen the caharcoal out. Matt seems to figure out the less steps on charcoal prepping.
Bob
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Gary Gilmore suggests 3/4" as the maximum size, I just size smaller for the smaller gasifiers.
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This is a really crappy video I made about my charcoal grinder Goran. Bad camera work but if you look close you can see what the grinder looks like at the end. I’m still using the same one. I ground twenty five gallons of fuel and five gallons of fines for bio-char today and it took me about 40 minutes and my back is screwed up right now so I wasn’t trying to move fast anyway. This make Half inch to quarter inch fuel. I don’t know what that is in Metric. I made that grinder in about an hour and a half. I have made a lot of hundreds of gallons of fuel with it since so it doesn’t have to be real complicated. I sift the fines out of it with a five gallon bucket with a piece of quarter inch diamond lathe in the bottom.
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