Kevin, he made a skeletal frame out of stainless rod/thick wire to help the stainless mesh hold it’s shape and not collapse from suction. There’s some pictures a little bit ahead.
This is a hot filter, if everything works well he might not need a hay filter.
Going slowly forward, to slow, i think, and now where changing to the stupid wintertime here, gets dark an hour earlier.
Goran I’m honestly amazed that even with the Swedish winters that the radiator you made is sufficient for that Big Block.
You use mostly metal tubing to run to the engine though don’t you?
Yes, metal tubing all the way to engine bay, even on summer gas temp seldom rises over 30°c (86°f) just before mixer, of course the big filter cools the gas also, when gas leaves filter i want it over 100°c (water boiling point in c) if gas reaches that temp just one time every trip im happy, knowing no condensation left on filter.
And, my engine are actually a “fake-bigblock” it’s a 400cui smallblock, not the best gm made i believe, but with 6,6 liters it leaves good torque on woodgas.
Also for interest: on my old Volvo i had no radiator/gas cooler at all, just metal piping over the roof, it run even cooler with gas at 25°c before mixer.
With cooling tubes on the roof or the sides of the bed of the truck, this allows you to not a have radiator but you still need a place to collect water in a tank before the engine intake. The radiator seems the most compact way of doing this. But both work very well.
Bob
Almost done with the gasifier lower mounting point, had to work in the dark, and rain, but i really wanted to get it done.
Now it’s just to drill two holes for a big clamp-ring i saved for this.
Bad thing i had forgot my big electric drill outside, water running from it when i picked it up 
Promised wife to not use it before it dried good, 240volts, outdoors, and no ground fault interrupter…
Goran I’ve been thinking about your issues with the Modulator in your TH4OO.
Typically it’s connected to Manifold vacuum, which under gasifier operation as your throttle is opened more and more, your vacuum lowers i.e. gets closer to 0 or equal to atmosphere, the modulator thinks you’re in a higher RPM so it shifts more firmly as if it had to force it’s way into the next gear.
You can buy Vacuum T connectors, and I think if you added a vacuum tap before your woodgas throttle or above it, maybe in between the air adjustment and the throttle, it would overpower the manifold vacuum during woodgas operation.
Branch this new Port tap to your Manifold tap and have them both run to the Modulator. Maybe run the T very close to the modulator so they’re less likely to bleed vacuum from each other.
During gasoline operation your woodgas throttle is closed and doesn’t add anything to the modulator, Manifold Vacuum will determine the modulator’s shift hardness. All the modulator sees is whatever source has the highest vacuum.
I could be entirely wrong about this, I’m no expert on vacuum balancing, call it a gut feeling.
If postage wasn’t so expensive I’d mail a new vacuum motor to you, I grabbed a few that the Parts Department had to throw away due to being “old stock”. But then you’d have to add some sort of Throttle Position Sensor to dictate the motor.
Hi there Cody, fun you remember me asking for advice about the transmission, myself, had just forgot about it again
Good suggestions you put up, my thoughts right now is im gonna find a electronic vacuummeter (i have one somewhere), and when the truck is up and running measure what difference in intake-vacuum, woodgas vs gasoline, if that gives some results i can maybe read the vacuum at other points, and “find a sweet spot”?
I’ve also looked around my “good to have” stuff, and found some vacuum reducers, vacuum boosters, and other stuff.
Do you have vacuum modulator on the transmission on your new truck? Ofcourse i will share the results if i come up with something good.
And a little update: all the mounting points for the gasifier are done, it’s steady as a glued rock.
“Ring-clamp” or what im gonna call it? In place.
Going througt the old angle iron fasteners.
Now it’s “just” some piping, wiring, leaks, and a little more, ofcourse it’s going to rain this weekend…
Yes I have a vacuum modulator in this truck.
There are some very very expensive cable operated modulator’s. About 400 dollars. It’s very niche for Diesel Swaps and for Supercharged engines.
There you gave me an idea Cody!!! My truck had a 6.2 diesel in it before, it has same transmission and modulator (modulator replaced, but had exactly the same number, both diesel and gasoline) the diesel engine had a small vacuum pump and a valve controlled from accelerator linkage, that would mean i could probably use a valve like that (i may even have saved that valve) to regulate the vacuum for the modulator?
I must find my workshop manual for the truck and read some about it.
Note: the vacuum pump on the diesel was only for controlling transmission, brakes uses hydro-boost.
I was thinking the same thing. Only issue is it’s still determined by how open the throttle is. It’s shifting harder than the engine requires. But maybe you could modify it to only work that way in Woodgas Mode. Tee off Manifold for Gasoline and Vacuum Motor for Woodgas.
I was wrong the cable operated modulator was 218 dollars.
In my year range, the vacuum motor operated everything and went where a Distributor would go, spun by a gear on the camshaft.
Got some stuff in the mail today, i’ve been looking for thermocouples with long wires for a while, and had to order some cheap ones from china.
Ok, so… now it’s most small work on the chevy, gas pipe between gasifier and filter in place.
Haha, that’s funny 
I appologize for not paying you a visit yet (which I talked about long ago) See if I can manage before Christmas. I’d really like taking a look at your rig 
You are very welcome JO, i hope i can get the time to build a wood supply, so you can “refuel” here. I’ve just realized i have NO wood at all, (and firing up getting closer) only got some wet, rotten chunks, time to start collecting wood, i believe.
Göran, I checked and it will be a 520 km roundtrip to Motala and back home. That equals about 13 bags. 2 in the hopper and 11 inside the car. I think that would be doable. If I leave wife behind (or store her on the roof-rack) I could even utilize the passenger seat for fuel 
Ha, that reminds me of my first trip to Dala-Järna, i loaded 13 bags, (60liters) and expected to run on gasoline if i didn’t make it home.
I would put some coil over shocks on the back of that for helper springs and build a cargo carrier like this. This one says Erickson so it must be Swedish.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Erickson-Cargo-Carrier-with-Fencing-500-lb/1002869386?user=shopping
