I don’t have this car anymore, it rusted away from me, engine started to wear out also.
But i had reinforced springs in the back, (special heavy load springs) and a pair of old rallye shock absorbers, it really improved stabillity, and did good to shake down wood to avoid bridging.
With an earlier hearth construction i used, i had lots of bridging problems, just on smooth, paved roads, i tried to solve that by putting on some old (from 1969!) snow tires, i pulled the studs to make them legal for summer use, they was hard as “bakelite” and i used high pressure in them, it really made the car shake and jump in the back, but i later rebuilt the hearth and solved the problem.
10 Likes
Very curious, how did you rebuild it?
4 Likes
There are no unsolvable problems. There are just people to lazy and unimaginative to look for solutions. People like us are the hope of the world. We don’t just think outside the box. We never let ourselves be stuffed into it to begin with.
Schools are not designed for teaching. The are programming centers.
15 Likes
Hey Tom .
I like it !!
12 Likes
I think i have to make some drawings, how the volvo gasifier evolved, i struggled alot with it, before i got it to run, as i was happy with it.
In short i solved the bridging problem in that case by making the hearth much wider.
7 Likes
Just throwing out a question here: where do you guy’s recomend placing a hopper temp probe? Can’t remember finding anything about it?
Haven’t used hopper temp gauge befor, and it just comes to mind it should be placed somewhere in the lower part, fairly shielded from the chunks?
5 Likes
I have mine at the top of the hopper, so I can see when the wood is gone.
9 Likes
Good morning Goron
I place the temp probe high enough in the hopper so there is a line of sight from the probe to about 6 inches above the nozzles.
10 Likes
Thank you Wayne and Jan, im going to mount a thermocouple this week, probably under a little “hood” or “roof” something, these thermocouples are little fragile, i have some sturdier ones, probe type, but the wiring is to short.
5 Likes
Goran I believe Wayne uses a BBQ thermometer inside the hopper, and he reads it with his rearview mirror.
5 Likes
Yes, i remember reading that somewhere.
In my case i thought it would be nice to use the “thermo-meter” i posted earlier in this thread, as it has 4 channels, now i only uses 2 of them (temperature before and after filter, before filter is same as outgoing gas from gasifier)
So my thoughts was to use one channel for hopper temp, and the last for gas just before mixer (having a bbq thermometer there now) nice to have all temperature readings on the same instrument.
One drawback is it uses thermocouples (typeK) and it’s not possible to lengthen those wires (every joint becomes a temperature reading point).
5 Likes
Hello Cody.
I use the bbq thermometer for the rail temps ( center post ) but I use the thermo couples on the hopper with the gauge and alarm on my dash .
10 Likes
Where did you get thermocouples with long wires or did you make you own wires?
2 Likes
Good morning Randy .
Here are the gauges I use for hopper temp and cross over pipe temp .
5 Likes
The water temp gauge uses a short sending unit, do you just add more wire to those connectors or is the harness long enough?
1 Like
Hello Cody .
I added wire .
8 Likes
Thanks for the information
1 Like
30°F? (-1°C) windy, and snowing, (and dark), feels like i’ve in the beginning stage of a cold or flu, but i want some work done on the truck, so…
Got some order to this rat’s nest, where i accidentally pulled some wiring.
Now it’s just the control relay for the blower left to connect (somewhere), that becomes tomorrow’s work.
Fixed the “pyrostart” got inspiration from the Finn’s and build this ignition device, based on a “flame start heater” a glow spiral with a injection nozzle, placed in the intake on diesel engines to heat the incoming air. This one was 24volt so i “re-rolled” the glow spiral (cut of half of the wire).
This hole in the bed is where i place my condensate can. The net is for leading some heat from the mufflers to keep the can from freezing. Going to cut a hole for a drain valve here.
Condensate can, have to build a connection flange for the drain valve to this.
9 Likes
Göran, your story reminds me what the weather was like when Emil in Lönneberga took Alfred with horse and sled to the doctor’s office in Marielund 
I just shut down the Volvo gasifier 10 min ago - wife forced me to run a small errand to the grocery store. She doesn’t know I took a little detour 
The motor ran so sweet and the heater provided such a comfortable enviroment, in contrast to what it looked like outside in the windy snowy darkness.
9 Likes
Yea and I bet you put up a lot of resistance 
8 Likes