This would be pretty involved, but it you could make something like a fiberglass shell over your windshield sufficiently reinforced to hold its shape as a form then you could vacuum form a piece of lexan that would be the size and shape of the windshield. I guess it would be worth it if everything else on a vehicle was in good shape,
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The other option is ‘crack repair’. Usually our insurance covers it, but basically they put glass resin in the crack and then harden it with UV light. The pro ‘basic’ kit I looked up was 150 bucks, and I think you need one for a crack that big.
You may have a law against crack repairs.
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Sorry, late answer, yes, i checked with a car-glass shop, they don’t wanted to help me 
I told them they cold try to fix the crack on my own “responsibility”, but, no.
I probably have to get in touch with one of them workers to see if he can help me “after working hours”.
There is no laws against crack repairs i know of in Sweden, as long they don’t disturb the “vision”.
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I talked about, earlier, the drawback’s of a big fuel hopper, cumbersome to empty it for checking the hearth, or “replace” the charbed ( which needs to be done sometimes on imbert-style gasifiers).
I slammed together this “tool” last sunday, to reach down better.
I let the pic’s talk.
Haven’t tried it in the gasifier yet, but wife has used it to pick up apples from the ground, to avoid get in a fight with the enormous amount of wasps.
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Could you please explain why that would be needed.
Nice tool btw.
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Well, true imberts need a good balance between oxidation and reduction zones, upper and below restriction, everything counts, bumpy roads, types of wood, how hard on the throttle.
Typical is burning out all charcoal below restriction, which gives co2 rich gas, this has happen to me sometimes lately, i suspected a hot leak, managed to rebuild the charbed and drive on, but some days ago i supposedly burned down the wood below nozzles, and next day put in a bag of charcoal first, poked it down forcefully, and filled up with wood- what a difference-ran like it did first weeks after i took it in traffic again. 
With the Chevy i haven’t had any big troubles with the charbed before (not any need to “rebuilt” it) therefore i suspected a hot-leak.
My conclusion is that the culprit is the REALLY bad wood i’ve used this last month, and daily driving the bumpy dirtroad to work, (my hearth is slightly underdimensioned for the Chevy) which not help, it under-produces charcoal some, enough the bumpy road crushes my charbed to dust, which ends up in the filter.
I can more understand the war-time gasifier service, where it was necessary to replace the charbead atleast once a week, some trucking companies did it every morning.
In all: im happy if a charcoal refill in two months is enough, i can live whit that, but will be interesting to see the difference whit proper wood, whitout mold and mush.
And, speak about wood: im totally out of fuel wood, burned the last bag today 
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Oh I am thinking that would be awesome for Halloween. Hide in the bushes, and as kids come by, grab their bags of candy with it, once you latched onto the bag of candy, play some loud wicked witch or monster sound and hop out of the bush in some costume. … Okay that would be funny but it is also kind of evil.
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göran, your filter net, what you ordered in china, have you by case the micron size of it somewhere written?
thanks giorgio
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I can relate to that. Same with both Rabbit and Mazda. When a lot of power is used for a long period of time (open road conditions), it will pull oxygen deep down into the charbed and charcoal is consumed faster than it can be replaced. Resulting in a very coarse charbed and a little bit of bridging because of the toasted chunks still being fairly big when they hurry down the firetube - and risk making tary fumes, even though the gasifier is super hot.
The condition improves with shutdowns and/or slow driving though and excersizing the charbed at lightup does too. I’ve added some char to the wood when refueling a couple times, but it’s dirty and messy and you have to be real careful not to overdo it.
The reason I asked is - I’ve never been able to wrap my head around why replacing char manually would be necessary. I’ve seen old videos where they open a bottom hatch to the side and stuff char in on top of the grate before lightup. Werner showed us the same at one point. Even an old Imbert, with the wide bottom rotating grate, would still have char left from the day before - or did I miss something?
Edit:
If you only had the sense to live a bit closer, I would donate some fuel to you…which leads me to the next thing - which I’m a bit embarrassed of - I think I mentioned paying you a visit already a year ago. Also, Johan and I talked about a road trip several times, but it still hasn’t happened. Seems we are both “talkers”, more than we are willing to admit.
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That was a much better description than mine, JO, 
especially the part about shut-down consuming the char some.
About 6 months ago i talked to an old man, as a boy he helped his father who owned a gas station in Askersund, his work during the last war years was replace char beds for customers, thats some, leave it on woodgas-service at the gas station
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JO, I always like to read your contributions, well, at Mazda you have a hot zone of two sizes at a different distance from the limiting opening, here the rule of vacuum applies, which is redistributed from the limiting opening to the hot zone and the reservoir, so the lower nozzles are always in the area greater negative pressure, which means more oxygen for burning fuel, this is especially true at higher loads. If this problem occurs, it is necessary to reduce the diameter of the bores of the lower nozzles, or to increase the bores in the upper ones, which have a greater effect on the conversion of wood into charcoal and thus the creation of a large amount of pyrolysis gases, which reduces the negative pressure in the system, this is a kind of self-regulation. I can say that my new experiment with the tractor justifies this theory, there is plenty of charcoal, even baked tar no longer accumulates on the wall above the hot zone.
Goran, this evening I sat, slowly drank beer and watched the flame, which I light after stopping, it literally burned for half an hour, so long that the beer had already warmed up. During this time, quite a bit of coal oxidizes and gasifies, because it takes oxygen from the pyrolysis gases that contain it, I intend to install a pipe for the discharge and burning of the gases after stopping on the gasifier cover, and I will see and report if there is any difference.
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Sorry, I forgot to write something, namely, Mr. Wayne mentioned somewhere that he dries the wood in the gasifier after stopping (thanks), well, I started doing that too, because a lot of thermal energy remains here, perfect for drying, even dripping water is heard in the collection tank.
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Business idea? I wonder if we could get enough customers to make a living? 
That’s true, and the next day when I have different power needs I just drill them back up again 
Jokes aside, I think they fit my avarage needs as is. I find it just as likely to have the opposite problem and for the most part it’s enough to adjust my driving style to manage the balancing act.
If I want to drive longer open road distances I just hop into the Volvo.
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I thought you liked woodgassing so much that you would do it for free 
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If you help me out, I can do the part of the the work @Tone just described - watching the flame drinking beer 
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Sure, I’ll help you with that part anytime
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JO, with this construction there is no need to “drill the nozzles again the next day”, interestingly, it will work well even with a small load, it may be necessary to raise the restriction opening a little more… optimization, adjusting the firebox to the size of the wood and the power range, … so that the conversion takes place and the fuel flows down the “throat” …
I’m just thinking out loud, .,… 
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I know that I’m already annoying with such contributions, well, as a “similar” example I can cite the adjustment of the chainsaw L and H screw…
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Not at all, Tone. Don’t ever think that. You have done a great job of developing a gasifier to fit your needs and not to mention your fuel. Most of us would probably make tar right away running chunks with twigs and all mixed in, or at least suffer from constipation.
The thruth is I’m for the most part too lazy to do any serious changes to my gasifiers and I prefer to adjust my driving style. A car or a pickup have a wider power range compared to a tractor and to my knowlidge fine tuning a gasifier to fit the full range isn’t possible anyway.
Please keep up posting. We all learn a lot from your contributions and I always look forward to them. Even if we choose not to follow your lead, it doesn’t mean we don’t appreciate watching, reading and learning. Personally I develope the same inspiring feel-good-chemicals watching your videos as I did first time discovering DOW and was blown away by Wayne’s golden wood piles and smoke puffs.
AND this isn’t just praise - it’s the THRUTH.
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Hi Tone, you intend to put a valve on top of the gasifier for the after-gassing? It sounds like a good idea, better let them gasses of without passing the hot-zone, condensing and wetting it.
Let the lid open to dry the wood some i do sometimes, when at suitable circumstanses, at home my neighbours want like the thick smoke.
A small valve at top of gasifier would also work like a restricted chimney, to be able to keep the glow for hours, no need to re-light after longer stops, and my theory is, maybe, less wood and char are consumed compared to a cool-down and re-lighting?
And NO, Tone, you’re never annoying, you are really thinking “outside the box” and a real asset for this forum.
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