Kevin, look up 200 mesh stainless steel mesh on Amazon, should be able to shop around there.
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I used to do screen printing, and I was current with suppliers and what was available. The stainless steel mesh you need (200 mesh?) used to be common and popular for industrial screen printing. I am shocked that whenever you look online for supplies, how the industry has collapsed and been replaced with digital ink jet technology. About all I can find is obscure Amazon providers of artist grade fabrics and inks. Nothing appropriate for a hot filter. You can buy industrial screen fabric, maybe even fine mesh, but pricey and must buy quantities. Might be better to just use fiberglass welding blankets, even if they are not the best, long-lasting solution. Your mileage will vary. 
Might find some new-old stock on EBAY or ETSY, if you are lucky!
Edit: found this…
Amazon.com: TIMESETL 304 Stainless Steel Woven Wire 200 Mesh - 12"X 40" Filter Screen Sheet Filtration Cloth : Industrial & Scientific
and this:
Amazon.com: LABALPHA 304 Stainless Steel Screen, 200 Mesh Stainless Steel Screen 19.6 inch X 8 ft(50cm X 244cm), Wire Diameter 0.05mm, Hard and Heat Resisting Wire Mesh : Industrial & Scientific
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THANKS MIKE R I saved the links to buy later- i bought the small piece, looks usefull might not work for small one after hay filter- good sceen material anyway. i may buy the big piece later.I see what it looks like in person-thanks guys.
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Hi Kevin, i bought my stainless mesh at Amazon, earlier when i looked around i could only find it on Aliexpress, much more expensive.
As for a mesh filter after the hayfilter i think it could be clogged very fast, mesh and fabric filters need to be keept hot, over the dew point, it should be possible to re-heat the gas though, that would be the best of both worlds, the hayfilter takes care of the most, and only some soot that slips ends up in the mesh filter.
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Hi Mike, interesting about screen printing, i found some mesh a while ago, that followed me home (i posted it here somewhere) the guy i got it from told me it was leftovers from a company that used to print labels for vodka bottles, i had no idea metal mesh was used for screen printing, i’ve only read somewhere silk (artificial?) was used.
I could be a way to find this mesh, if there are any companys still in business?
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Goran,
Yes, that mesh that followed you home was probably from an industrial printer (or bottler) who may have printed some kind of heat-setting enamel directly on the bottles, then oven baked. You can also print ceramic ink on decal paper, apply to blank coffee mugs, then fire in a kiln (below glaze melt temperature). the decal film and binder burns away, makes a nice and permanent design. My brother and I did that for a few years. lots of work for a few dollars pay! The stainless holds up for thousands upon thousands of print cycles. we used a precision polyester woven mesh. you can get that stuff easy, but it melts at low temperatures! my brother James has never gotten away from some kind of commercial artist craft. I went the electronics route. 
Those two Amazon links I posted came up after a lot of searching around, made somewhere labor is cheap no doubt. 
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Speaking of which, how many M² did you end up buying?
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10m2, it was the biggest piece they sold, 1m wide, 10m lenght.
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Göran, I looked at your filter again, do you have the inlet in the middle of the filter and the outlet at the bottom?
Does copper hold it to make a basket for a fiberglass filter, (or will copper destroy the fiberglass) or will 1.5mm stainless wire suffice?
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Hi Jan, i made my filter standing, carried by a perforated tube, gas out in the bottom.
The inlet is tangentially, between the double walls.
Hope this explains some.
I think double walls like this is important, it acts like a shield for the filter (no hot gas hit it’s directly) it stops glowing particles from hitting the filter, acts as a simple cyclone and drop box, and gives the filter an even pre-heating, also acts as a insulating wall, to keep the filter warm. I believe it also saves the filter from occasional moisture/tar drops, which ends up in the bottom collector.
The outlet from the filter could be made in the top, with a flange between lid and housing, outlet tube in filter lid.
Oh, almost forgot: i believe copper piping would work great for filter basket, soft, smooth bends. I borrow that idea for my coming Volvo filter.
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I have ordered untreated welding blanket, and was thinking of making a filter as i did for the ferret, don’t know if it will be enough for the s10.
But the oil drum I have is only 35cm inside, so I did this on the ferret, so that the blanket would fit, I’m a little doubtful about this because I seem to get water in the bottom of the filter on the ferret.
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Some water would do no harm, as long as the filter heats up over 100°c every occasion, i see it as a good thing the soot in bottom is slightly moist, keeps the soot where it belongs, and make it harder to catch fire.
As long there is a temperature and/or pressure drop, some condensation will always take place, if it becomes a problem, skip the cyclone or insulate it, one layer of those fire blankets does wonders.
And: the bottom of a fabric filter will always stay cooler=more mousture.
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So… i can’t forget my old “friends” (Chevy) only because i have a new “friend” (Volvo)…
Need to use the truck some, for transporting stuff and like, so started to disassemble the gasifier again.
Need to separate the flange again, im going to just lift of the hopper.
I borrowed this Snap-on angle impact driver from work, one of my favourite tools.
Air intake loosened.
Red high-temp silicone works great to protect threads from seizing.
Ready for lift off, i had to extend my crane some to reach.
Hopper off, now to save the fuel.
The hearth emptied and ready to lift.
The heart upside-down on the ground, im able to spot the culprit…
When i rebuilt the hearth i didn’t re-weld all around, because it “looked good enough” now i know better, i see it clearly this is the “original” first weld that cracked, not the 75% i re welded.
I also found this crack on the inside, under the “shelf” for the choke plate. I don’t think this do any harm though, as there is’nt air on the other side.
The choke plate is still usable, but im going to cut a new one anyway.
Saved some charcoal to feed the Volvo.
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Thanks for sharing your tear down review/ VIEW - looks like you may have caused some of the other hot spots/ cracks, from the air leaks , you learned a lot on your first build, I don’t have enough miles on my three gasifier put together to match up with your wood gas driving. It’s all good knowledge and knowing how to get down the road or trail these days. I got too get testing my first Dakota gasifier build soon.After I get some wood chunked ahead before winter dampness sets in.
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I just thought of you. Apparently they make a filter cleaner for radial sealed air filters.It is spinner thing that an air compressor spins. (someone said don’t go over 50psi and wear a mask of course)
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My truck needed some tlc, it has been parked all winter.
After-work.
A front caliper needed some “massage” and penetrating oil, now it rotates freely.
Much needed replacement of front tires, this is the better one of them…
I got two good used ones.
Well, i guess they just picked a snowball-fight, down in the hot place where evil people go…
Wheel alignment adjusting has been needed since i got the truck, last years DESPERATELY needed.
Talk about toe-in…
Better now… a real pleasure to drive it home, i would even dare to let go of the steering wheel for seconds
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