Did you have 200mesh on your filter Göran?
I think it looks very good.
Edit: Do you think this would work both as a filter and firewood container?
https://m.biredskapsfabriken.se/artikel/honungshantering/karl-och-tankar/rostfritt-karl-rymd-200-kg-honung-med-plastkran
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In the company where I work, we mostly use bag filters for air filtration, the air flow is always in the direction of inflating the bags, well, with some dust extraction systems, the bags hang upside down, an eccentric vibrator is installed above , which turns on for a short time after stopping, so that the bags are shaken and the dust falls down into a separate container.
Well, in some versions, the air flow is from the outside to the inside, and here the bags are attached to perforated pipes.
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I dont want to go into the rabbithole if air should go from outside to inside. We do both. In bigger installations it still goes from inside to outside. Section plate is below and filters are hanging on a shakerframe. Works ok as long as you make sure the bags dont get floaded with woodchips/ dust.
For the the smaller installations , below 400 mm suction pipe diam we use bins under the filters. Filters are hanging, sectionplate is up and filters are kept open with spurals. Some people are lazy😀 , we dont use names, and dont empty the bin regular. The dust between the filters falls almost by itself and if dust/chips inside the filterpipes is, you have to remove manually.
Btw, used to by filtermedia from Conus or Konus in Slovenia. Just on a roll. Now from Italy, Germany and or Switserland. All completed. The Dutch supliers are to expensive 
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Hi Tone, you’re right about heating the fuel bin, but with a fuel bin wider than the heart i believe this is the simplest solution, and, i use to drive on the “reserve” , burn it down some just as you say, that cleans the funnel, the baked tar just slips down with the wood. I’ve run very wet wood the last weeks, and that have tar-ed the fuel bin some more than usual.
As for the filter i see your point, a “hanging” bag filter should “breathe” great varying underpressure would make the bag move, in and out, cleaning itself. But for me i am satisfied with my old filter, it has served me well, and needs minimum of care and maintenance, BUT: for my tractor filter you have gived me some ideas, i would consider that, i already considered some kind of bags, keept “open” by some spring-winded stainless steel wire.
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Hi Jan, yes, 200 mesh, the “tightest” mesh available on Amazon.
Those honey containers looks real promising, good price!
Just wonder how thick material? If it’s too thin, it’s risk of collapsing under vacuum. And, harder to weld, but that can be solved.
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Yes, it’s only 0.6mm, the question is does it stop the vacuum?
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I believe my filter is 0,75mm inner mantle, and 1,0 outer housing, but a round construction withstands much more than a square box for example.
Those barrels would probably work good with some reinforcement?
Edit: and for welding, a heavier piece of sheet, riveted or bolted in place works good.
Edit2: some stainless seems to be harder to weld, like in some kitchen pots, it just “dissapears” even with Tig welding, never try with stick, you will get a 3 inch hole in nanoseconds. 
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There are more dense ones. but is it necessary?
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I think 400 mesh would work great. Hopefully it isn’t too fragile.
200 Mesh like Goran’s using is 75 micrometers, but the soot cake is what really filters.
I’ve been trying to find some stainless wire thread to use my sewing machine and make a mesh filter. I might resort to stainless staples folded into a hem.
Found a big spool, may work in my bag sewing machine. 100% stainless with no core.
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This morning was the first with freezing temperatures, no fun, but!: my truck runs a little better
As i suspected a while ago, i got a hot leak, a crack that “opens up” when temperature rises to a certain point, then the outgoing gas temp really rushes up. I have drove it everyday, to work and home, and much other driving, when temperature gets scary high, i cheat with some gasoline, still only a fraction of gasoline use
This pic i took when coming home from work some weeks ago, pretty hot
Same pic with flash.
Well, this morning i drove it all the way to work, normal speed, and keept the temps ok, no gasoline, (i drove it like i got my b*lls under the accelerator, no kick-downs
) the outside temperature really helped.Well, this is’nt the solution, but as it gets colder, im going to park the truck for repairs, the heater is a little underdimensioned for what i like, i freeze and shiver, have to scrape the ice of the windshield when driving.
And i haven’t invested in some snow-tires for it, illegal to drive without in Sweden, and very slippery.
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Oh no! Where do suspect the leak to be? Is it repairable from the outside, or is the crack internal and require a complete tare down?
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Well, im pretty sure it’s in the bottom of the hearth, between inner tube and outer, air jacket.
I know where i should have put more work on the welding 
that part is very exposed to heat-expansion.
So, total tear-down it is, starts when wifes Volvo is back on the road again… so i can borrow it.
Good thing is i think i figured out a solution/improvement
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That’s what all this about. What would happen to us without the brain excersize gasifier improvements offer 
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Haha, yes, only bad thing is, it use to happen between going to bed, -and falling asleep.
This time the brains should start relaxing
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NICE biutifull GODS country you live in out there, as mentioned by others- Looks like no shortage the truck fuel-you could save a lot of money on fuel for sure. Good luck dialing your truck in for wood gas perfected.I may have to work on my hearth area if my insulated burn tube test unit maybe caint take the heat- my first insulated burn tube- i had in my chevy s10 4.3- seem too work well-fast warm up though i never tested it out on the long haul- so my dakota insulated burn tube will be the first real test out at the long haul or extended trailer pulling loaded testing.OF coarse if it starts running to hot i can add in some petro, and back off the wood gas vacuem a bit.
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I know i probley missed it way back in your thread- just wondering how you made that elaberate hot filter,and what type mesh it was made from-or made.? NEAT LOOKING FILTER.
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Hi Kevin, and thanks
Around post 500 and forward is some about the rebuilding of my filter.
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Man that really is a big achevement design build- how many miles you think you may have on the filter- and would you use that design instead of hay filters on your next build as well.THANKS Also what exactly would posible be the best material for this type filter.THANKS
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Hi Kevin, as for the rebuilt filter, i believe i have 2500 miles on it, a wild guess/calculation, the old filter with glass-fibre fabric (welding blankets) i have no idea, but it’s a lot.
As for new builds, it depends, i converting my Ferguson tractor for woodgas, and i can’t really decide if i should use a filter like this, or more of a hay filter type, one drawback with fabric filters is they need to get hot enough on every occasion it’s used, about 100°c/212°f to keep it dry, otherwise it may get clogged to soon.
For the tractor i maybe build a small hot fabric filter, easier to heat up, but needs regular cleaning (brushing, or blowing with compressed air).
As for material, glass-fibre welding blankets works extremely well, very good filtration, but tends to get “loose” by time, also more sensitive to over-heating, get brittle or just burn holes.
The fine stainless mesh i use at the moment seems very promising, very heat resistant, keeps the “soot-cake” better than i expected, but somewhat lower filtering grade, still very good though.
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Thanks GORAN K --It seems like the ss filter might be better than hay/straw filter media- i might even try a smaller one after the hay filter- see what it collects. Can you steer me to the best place to get the ss filter material.? THANKS
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