I too am with you here, old tractor, old gasifier. They will fit together nicely.
This wood from the hopper made me drull. Plese dont burn all of it, if l ever get to visit Sweden (wich is on the bucket list) plese spare me a peace
I got extremely scarse experiance with pushrods, but the two engines l did open up, one had aluminium rods and the othrr one brass. Just thod l threw that info in, as nothing is certain untill you get in there.
Btw, why the hell brass?? I get the aluminium but brass, being hevy and quite weak makes no sence to me.
Aaaaah, lot of good advice/suggestions, i really love this forum
Im going to read, answer, ask, further this eveni g, when home from work.
Right now: SteveU brought up the most interesting ideas, the bolt-on piece on piston, something i thought about a long time, but never dig into further, hesitating it been a mad idea… but when someone else suggests it, it’s probably not.
Only thing i consider being a problem is i’ve been told the Ferguson engine have deep, narrow combustion chambers, have to wait until i pulled the head.
Edit: I’ve saved scrap “aluminum” pistons in case i would cast these bolt-on pieces in the future, so long my thoughts have been going.
Goran, but now you have no peace,…
It’s true, the head has deep combustion chambers, so it will be difficult to achieve CR 1:9, well, it’s a different story if I got the head from a diesel engine, where I would remove the swirl chambers and install spark plugs.
I found the coating. ITC 100HT coating. Here’s a video on it.
Because of it’s reflective nature it actually makes the inside hotter with the same effort. It’s essentially keeping the heat in.
EDIT: ITC also sells a top coat that can go over 100HT, labeled ITC-296A which protects from firing gasses and molten metal.
There is an additional product, ITC-213 which is intended as a base coat for metals. I think if you had the funds, to apply the 213 first, then 100HT, and then the 296A as a protective finish.
göran, in the swiss gengas book from tilman, there are designs for modification of combustion chambers…for example in the “ricardo” motorhead they fixed a metal piece in for reduce the volume…
Nice job Giorgio. now you are making me ask another dumb question. Since decking an engine block or milling heads is primarily to reduce the volume of the combustion chamber, why would some sort of plate on top of the piston not serve the same function as far as CR goes? It wouldn’t interfere with the function of the rings and could be carved for valve relief. Bonding the plate to the piston may be a challenge but temps on the surface of the piston can’t be super high or aluminum pistons would deform. Of course just getting High compression pistons would be the right thing to do but maybe you didn’t want to drop the lower end.
Good idea Rindert, ill probably do it that way, if the pushrods are hollow, i believe they are old type, forged steel.
Maybe i get some thin, strong tube, and just use the ends from my push-rods, turning them down in my lathe, and silver-solder them in the tube pieces, time will tell.
Tone, you never need permission to comment, your comments are always welcome, i have the deepest respect for your ideas, and ingenuity.
We will see wich way the gasifier build will go, i plan to keep it simple, and not do to much modifications on the gasifier, but i’ve said that before and it tends to “run away”.
Thanks for looking it up Cody, i checked and itc100ht should be available in Sweden.
First i thought about some ceramic coating i’ve seen, used to coat inside of exhaust manifolds/ headers, was available in spray can some years ago.
I thought you maybe find this interesting Tone?
This is from the book: Engines and motorfuel, 1944.
This diagram is about “after-gassing” in woodgasifiers with heated fuel hopper and charcoal gasifiers.
Translation: Tryck i generator= gasifier pressure
mm vp=millimetres water column.
Vedgenerator=woodgasifier.
Kolgenerator=charcoal gasifier
Tid i min= time in minutes.
It also tells in the book that in a wood gasifier the gas, 15 seconds after shut-down contains 23,4% CO, after 13 minutes, 45 seconds, it contains 27,7% CO.
Goran, interesting post, really in a real situation, gas comes out for 20 minutes when the gasifier was heated, whether this is good or bad, everyone should judge this for their own needs.
Many different types of engines were installed in the Fergie te20,… it would probably be possible to get a much better compression ratio with a combination of 85mm pistons and a head from a gasoline engine, with a piston diameter of 80 and a CR of 5.77, well, the math is cruel:
-cylinder volume 80 mm, stroke 92 mm…462 ccm
-combustion chamber volume 97cc, at CR 1:5.77
-cylinder volume 85mm, stroke 92mm…522ccm
-CR … 522ccm +97ccm /97ccm =6.38…
we see that we get a CR of only 1:6.38
That is spot on, Tone
I have 85mm pistons, (the British built Standard engine) a head for gasoline engine should make difference. As i understand it engine with 80mm pistons head dont match, don’t know if thats the Continental engine though?
I’ve ordered head gasket yesterday, and searched around little for a gasoline head.
I have papers from the governments emergency fuel investigations i should look up this evening, there they convert fergusons just like mine, with testing results, brake horse power with different compression ratios.
hello tom, how i have read some plate on the pistons -for make them higher and compression higher- creates the problem, that the plate has a interrupted heat transfer…so heats up more as the piston and can create glowing ignitions…
also pieces fixed in the motorhead can make this disturbs with sharp edges, also problems how to fix it…
using higher pistons , made from one piece only, can create not ideal combustion chambers with side-valve motors…in the swiss gengas book from tilman page 375 and around…
maybee i will have the same problem like göran with my fiat…
a video from a tractor like görans
All that makes sense Giorgio, but in my defense I already said it was probably a dumb idea. I have a Massey Ferguson TO 35 with a 4cylinder diesel that has been rotting away for a long time now. I started to fix it up but it was before I used the internet to find things and parts from the local dealer were too much to be worth it to me at the time. If I’m around long enough I’d like to get it working. It ran when I parked it.
During tests they raised the cr to 10,4:1 by using special pistons.
As i need to use the tractor some this spring, i probably convert it to woodgas, but have to wait until early summer, before starting experimenting with compression ratio increasing. Maybe, headgaskets turned out to be pretty cheap
A lot of the old two cylinder John Deeres could use Kerosene. There was a lever on the carb you could change from one position to the other to switch from gasoline to kerosene. Farmalls could use kerosene too, you just had to adjust the mixture screw.
Rindert
