Hi Tom, as Rindert says, a lot of tractors ran on kerosene. They was very popular in Sweden because kerosene was only a fraction of the prize of petrol.
Many gasoline tractors was converted to be able to use kero instead, what differs from a gasoline engine is: “extreme” pre-heating of intake, air, and mixture, lower cr (kerosene has an octane rating of 60 (?)) Retarded timing, “curtains” for the radiator to keep the engine near boiling point. Biggest problem was that kerosene dont stay in vapour, it condenses and dilutes the oil.
There are also, as Rindert mention systems to start, and run low power on gasoline, my Fergie has double fuel tanks, one small for gasoline, and a shifting valve. There are also a drain on the carb, if one forgets to run gasoline before shut-off (it’s almost impossible to start on kero)
Not much to report yet, looking forward for the weekend to come, just have a chainsaw to fix, then it’s woodgas-work, starting to cut the tractor gasifier, and maybe replace the exhaust on the Chevy.
Anyways, i got my gasket-kit today, for the Ferguson.
Goran, Fiat also has a double tank designed to run on kerosene. The intake manifold and the exhaust manifold are actually one piece, the intake of the mixture is carried out upwards, so any drops of fuel on the hot surface get very hot and gasify well, I think it is almost impossible for them to separate into oil in the engine. How would tar gas behave so preheated? Otherwise, I do not expect to produce tar, the question is only for consideration. I remember the engine in the legendary Renault 4 gtl, where the exhaust and intake manifold were also combined, the car really did not develop much power, but the fuel consumption was extremely low and the operation was very smooth.
I believe the issue with tar isn’t when the engine is hot, but when it is cold and hasn’t been cleaned out. That’s one reason why starting and stopping on gasoline or diesel is a good idea.
It’s exactly that way on my Ferguson, a heating chamber at intake, this was common in gasoline engines to, known as the “hot-spot”, to give the engine an more even mix, there are also, in cars trouble when acceleration/decceleration, when vacuum changes gasoline droplets condense, giving black smoke next acceleration. As for woodgas this heating gives no benefits, as a gaseous fuel should be as cold as possible, to get as much energy per volume into the engine.
I have heard some benefits from heating the secondary air to near the gas temperature reduces carbon build-up in intake, but never tested it myself.
I got an urge to do some with the gasifier this evening, and away it went, started cutting the gasifier between hopper and hearth. (Felt a little ashamed to cut into this artifact)
Ofcourse, when half-way, my angle grinder got a leak, and all the magic smoke escaped, just when it started feel warm and cosy to hold…
I had no electric-smoke refill at home, so i had to fetch grandpa-angle grinder, this old beast has no soft-start mumbo-jumbo, i can see the neighbours lights flicker when i pull the trigger.
So… cut it open, good it’s payday tomorrow, going to buy an extra angle-grinder, i use to have three, but have been a little penny-wise lately, or just to lazy to go buy one.
So glad you have a sense of humor. Reminds me of a instructor I had back in the day. Electronics definition of a transistor. A little black box filled with smoke when the smoke gets out it ain’t any good anymore.
Yup Goran, I have gone through a few angle grinders myself build gasifiers. Hope my newest one last for a long time, or many gasifier builds.
Bob
I had one explode in my hands, l was cuting bricks so the dust must of hurt something in there real bad.
Whats the science behind preheating the air giving less carbon? Doesent make sence to me. In my eyes, soot alredy exist in the gas but only gets thrown out where there is suddenly a turbolent enviroment. Corners of pipes, throrltle boddy… and the vacuum of the manifold.
Hi Kristijan, this is only something i’ve heard, and it’s mentioned in some woodgas book, i guess this is something, maybe true in wintertime, where cold air mix with slightly warm gas, moisture in gas condenses, forms droplets which act as “cores” for soot fomation?
By heating mixing air, this only happens longer away from mixing point, around intake valves, it’s no real beneficial then, one just dont see the moisture/soot, and the mixer keeps cleaner?
Very true. I find myself replacing the throttle body every other week or so in wintertime. Soot becomes a wet paste that stick downstream the throttle plate. During summer months the soot is dry and mostly “consumed” in the motor. What does stick can be lit WK-style.
I’ve never experimented with air or gas reheat though.
First i’ve heard about it was, i believe SE Werner, with his Volvo 245, many years ago, as i remember he fed the gas through the carb, and then used the summer/winter air intake (taking warm air around the exhaust manifold)
That should have keept the mix dry right into the engine.
My theory is that coal at high temperature in an oxygen-free atmosphere turns into coal gas, and I agree that in the further process, when it cools on the walls or when it mixes with cold air, it turns into a solid state again and is deposited like soot. If you think like this, Goran’s statement about mixing gas with hot air, for less soot, makes sense.
About 8-9 hours of driving with the Illerm, the gas enters on the underside of the foam rubber and out on the upper side, and into the carburettor.
A total of about 50 hours of driving in the forrest.
always good to have some reserve grinders at home…before i had bosch grinders, but they are very delicate with the security switch…so i changed to makita, bought 5 grinders, have had in good remembering makita tools from my time when i worked as furniture maker…once was indestroyable…but now, the new one , after very short time, near the switch, comes very stinky smoke out, with the second grinder it was the same…we found the reason: the switch with the security mechanic has some grease on there for the security mechanic rod, but there accumulates in short time metal dust, and provocates a short circuit between the wires…
and smoke comes out…when this appears immediately draw the electric plug, otherwise damage…solution: clean away all the grease, the switch goes a bit stronger, but is shure in this way…this should not happen with a good trade mark…
Hi Tom, yeah i’ve actually seen on ebay, (fun stuff) glass jars with something looking like smoke inside, branded: Genuine Lucas Replacement Smoke, with part number and all. Fun gift to a friend with a interest in vintage British automobiles.
Poor guy this Lucas, known as the man who invented darkness, and further developed the short circuit. 
Good to see the Iller is up and running, on wood 
Tar problems solved?
That is a good tips, Giorgio, this angle grinder probably got it’s metal dust in the armature, i’ve noticed my favourite cheap make has some new air-holes near the “angle” gear, since that modification they don’t hold up more than a year. My bad habit to not use the disc guard dont help, sparks blow right into the motor…
I have a skill 9295. This is the second one. The first one the carbon brushes wore out too far and the steel spring touched the commutator, so it was ruined. But it lasted a very long time. Now, for the new one, i have a spare set of brushes. I think this is a good machine.
Rindert