Keep an eye on your door-jambs especially along the pillars and hinges. Leaves and pollen tags stick in there and will invite rust via humidity and rain, or clog the door drainage holes with the new internal gutter systems.
My trick as a Detailer to remove road tar is to just use some gasoline, old or new. It works the fastest and doesn’t fade modern paint as long as you still have a healthy clear coat. Wash the car to remove the dirt and then rub off the tar after spritzing a little gasoline either on the rag or on the affected area.
Also if your headlights plastics are fading or yellowing, just buff them with some compound. Don’t spray that magic snake oil junk or DEET bug spray.
Around here there is so much dirt in the air , when it rains your just cleaned wash and waxed car is dirty again. Lol. I have grown custom to the dirty, bad paint car look on my vehicles.
Well, my guess about road clearance wasn’t so bad with 8-9 inches, i measured today and it was 8 1/2 inch, and now it’s parked so rear end sits some lower.
We actually have some huge salt mines in Michigan. Miles and miles of them. I guess they needed some reason to mine it so they decided to opt for rusting out cars and trucks. Under carriage pressure washing is as important as oil changes around here.
Getting the shopvac and soot box together, the box ends up off-center because of the available space, and the d*mn “box-beam” (what do you call this sheet metal reinforcements?)
Lot more welding than i expected (good thing welding is FUN)
For the location “boxed-beam” is O.K. language.
Car body stamped steel and spot welded-in reinforcements and stiffeners are named often for location, and purpose.
Sills; channels; pillars.
Door interior crash intrusion made-ups are called beams. Under plastic front and rear facia’s are bolted on made up actually sheet metal bumper “crash” beams.
S.U.
Thank you SteveU, the technical language can be a pain to translate sometimes, can’t really trust google translate, because it tends to favors “popular” meanings.
I also build a electrically controlled blower valve, inspired by Kevin, i bought some cheap actuators on amizon, they looked bigger on the website, but are really strong.
Some while ago i had the luck to get this stainless “screen-printing” screen, 4 and a half meters, 1 meter wide, cutting in two for the height.
Now im making a “cage” to support this screen.
I just used a piece of flat iron as a “ruler” to bend the net against, not perfect, but good enough. Just some bending/adjusting to do, when i secure the cage against the gas pipe.
That’s coming along really well. I agree with JO, this is obviously not your first build. The details and layout are proofs of that. How many have you built?
I thought of using those linear actuators for my build to open slide gate valves, but I hadn’t thought of using them for ball valves.
how do you fix the upper and the bottom edges of the filter?
before i have made my dust trap in the filters, i thought about how to make larger the surface of the filter net…theoretically…
on the bottom and top a metal disc, there welded on a double walled “star,” maybee 1 cm high, between the walls enters the filter net, and the grove is filled after or before placing the screen with the red glue…this would make the whole construction stable, i think…
Great job and progress Göran, this shows a predetermined plan and sticking to it. I usually need the thinking chair much more as I change my mind / evolve the plan often during any build at the cost of time.
Hi Bronlin, i believe this is my fourth “complete” build, then there are re-builds and experimental builds along the way (and un-finished builds, and not working builds)
Hi Giorgio, im going to fold the mesh around this star, and double-fold the ends, and / or glue them with red silicone, and staple them together with stainless staples.
I will post more pic’s along the process, easier to explain then
I think this is a good way to make filters, it’s hard to believe this gets a surface of about 4,5 m2.
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, almost 9 meters.
