Where the hose ends, a condensate collector is going to be mounted. The power steering container sits nicely on the hose, just going to secure it with some cable ties.
Thanks JO, i haven’t posted them here because they’re only in Swedish (im a little lazy) going to make some international Youtubes when it’s up and running
Gas outlet after filter, there is a risk of condensate running back from the cooler, and i don’t want it in my hot/dry filter, so i make this water-catcher. From the thin pipe im going to connect a hose down to a bottle in the trunk.
Some tinkering to make the valve controlled from drivers place. I had to sacrifice some “universal joints” for sockets, now i can turn the valve with the rod.
Gas temp after filter thermocouple.
Here the black hose going to a red plastic can is visible, this is for catching any water running backwards from the cooler.
So… now it’s “only” the gas/air mixer left to build. Wo-hoooo!
I have absolutely no idea how im going to build it yet… well, if i sleep on it…
I think that would be very uncomfortable Goran and I think your wife would miss you in your bed. Maybe you should just mull it over or chew on it awhile perhaps with a little hot sauce.
I’m sorry. I put in a hard day in the garden and now I’m tired and talking foolishly.
When looking around for gas mixer parts i found this, never used, it was certainly something to brag about, if you drove with original Imbert in the 40s.
I decided to make my own valves, i had the luck to find flaps, axles and pipes that matched perfectly.
But how to drill perfectly in the center of a pipe when you don’t own a proper drill press?
I tested this i saw on youtube, worked nice.
I found it way better to start converting the other way around. First do the plumbing and valves then the gasifier in the end. Whenever l did gasifier first, the test fire got me to eager to start driving and the plumbing was slopy.
Point l want to make is you sure dont have that problem Goran, wery nice precise work.
Im not totaly sure thugh of your layout. Culd you explain? Specialy the throtle cable thing…
Hi Kristijan and Jan, the mixer setup is like this: the pipe close to engine is woodgas.
On engine manifold the original throttle is working as normal.
On pipe close to camera there are two valves/flaps, the one close to plenum is going to be controlled via engine throttle, in that way it closes when throttle closes, adjusted to a somewhat rich mixture on idle/low load.
The second valve flap is controlled by a lever at drivers place, this is for choking the air at load/ full throttle, as normal on woodgas.
Why this setup? Well, with only a manually controlled valve, when you let go of the accelerator, there is some underpressure in the woodgas system, this wants to go back to atmospheric pressure and therefore fills front parts of woodgas system with fresh air, backwards via secondary air valve, this may lead to stalling or missing.
This is for sure more cumbersome to install and adjust, but i really like its “driveabillity”.
By this not said it’s a must to use this, i know other systems work well without it.
Test drive, sluggish acceleration, but no trouble reaching 100km/h
Feels like it can do more, need to experiment with ignition timing. (Fixed/ standard setting now)
Congratulations, Göran! I like it
I’m not familiar to all your buttons, but remember the Volvo will syphone quite a lot without the pump - just saying. Maybe one of your switches already kills the injection.
I’m guessing that is your fuel pump rehostat shut off? Is it wired to switch the live wire or does it switch the negative?
I’m still in search of a dimmer for the fuel pump on my truck.
Hi Bronlin, this is a cheap pwm module i got on Amizon, if i remember correctly it would do 40 amp’s max.
This one has no common ground, so i split both wires back at the in-tank pump unit, this gives i have 4 wires between dash and tank.
The left “toggle switch” underneath the pwm module is a 3-position, 2-pole switch (first position: as standard, fuel pump relay to pump.
Middle position: all shut off.
Third position: pump is powered by pwm module.
Unnecessary complicated maybe, but i like to tinker with wiring, and it’s nice to have the option to by-pass the pwm module, if it stops working.
As for now i haven’t testing any hybrid driving yet, but my experience with the pwm controller is it seems to work fine, don’t run hot, good “tuning” of the pump (possible to lower the pump until the car just stays alive idling)
Edit: the 3-way switch also gives me the option to by-pass the fuel pump safety relay, which can be a source of trouble on some old Volvo’s
Busy day today, no time to drive on wood, first we visited a nearby county fair, after that a trip to visit my mother (it’s Mothers Day tomorrow in Sweden), on the way home we stopped by some friends.
I couldn’t really go to bed without any woodgas work, so did some minor “improvements”
)
