Hi mr Wayne, i got a badger trap on my backyard, i mostly caught the neighbours cats, it’s fascinating how close to lightspeed a cat takes of when letting them out 
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Goran, simple and good product, you are rightly called “doctor”… 
…at first your branch cutter looked like a single wrap screw cutter to me, but I was wrong,…well, actually a bit more than one screw wrap would be enough to pull the branch forward…
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I’m not sure you want to put yourself in my league. I only have moments of brilliance. they don’t come that often though. 
How you cut them, they don’t have support behind them. I assume a slit would work better but when I thought about it, I wasn’t going to buy a new one and have it shatter because at least the outer edge is hardened, (from what I recall, the ‘higher end’ ones they don’t harden the center part because it is more durable) that is what used pieces are for.
If you do it, make a build video.
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That’s why we always get female dogs Wayne. I just don’t have it in me to deprive any dude of it’s dangling parts. 
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If you are good, you can just clamp them.
Oh, I just remembered why I stopped looking at the discs. They are ‘roller sharpened’ if you do it with a grinder, they are prone to flaking and chipping. That is certain kinds of discs. I have no idea what roller sharpening is. It just sounds complicated and expensive.
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Hi Sean, late reply, roller sharpening is, i belive, kind of a cold forging process, the movement of the material gives a very hard edge, but grinding it may give results like bad damascus steel, flaking.
Interesting about steel, i’ve heard about blacksmiths using old steel rings from wooden wheels from horse wagons, used in towns with cobblestone streets, the enormous cold forging process going on for years is said to give a steel comparable with the japanese samurai swords 
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Hi Tom, some info on the “slicer” motor,
Motor.
Gearbox.
I counted, 25 rev’s/ minute, a little on the slow side, but it pretty much runs itself, i don’t need to wait and watch it
I post some updates here too:
I installed a “real” switch to control it, a little better than pull the plug.
It’s wired so i can reverse it, if it gets stuck.
Nice option with a “see through” switch box… or… (old screw box)
A weather protection “roof”
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Late reply would be like 3 years from now. I don’t wear a watch.
I am not sure what they mean, that is what I thought initially, then I watched a video on someone roller sharpening a knife, and it was the grinding stone was on a roller attached to a cylinder then you rolled it across the blade. Some of the even newer disc’s you might not even be able to sharpen.
When I was looking up japanese sword making which I never quite found the how-to and some of the old techniques for forging, used out on the prairie there are actually some similarities because of the similarity in materials easily available. charcoal, straw, riverbank clay, etc.
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Updates on the volvo, it’s serving me well, i really like to drive this one.
Has run close to 1600km (1000miles) on wood now, used up about 15 liters of gasoline, for start-ups, short trips, “hybriding-help” when passing other vehicles and such.
Ash dump at about 800km, not much.
Daily (60km- to-and from work) hopper juice draining, varying from 3-8 liters
It has run constipated 3 times, my grate scraper is not working,(i haven’t built it ready yet, and have to re-think the construction) so i just turn it with a wrench at home when gasifier cooled down, not a problem, just happens when i drive on really loose wood, and only happens on the bumpy gravel roads.
Some improvements made today, the trunk lid has been some “flabby” after i cut it, now it’s reinforced with 3/4" angle iron. Im going to make a hood over the filter later, to keep it warm, and keep rain, snow and leaves out of the trunk.
I also fitted a thermometre right before the intake, not needed, just interesting to see the temperature.
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Congrats that was a lot of hard work and you did it well! and You are lucky!! That is all I can say because if you weren’t across a big puddle, I would give your gasifier a makeover with some paint. And of course, you would know who did it, so I would be a dead man, Maybe i am lucky there is a big puddle between us.
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Looking good, Göran!
I have one question though…you mentioned in a resent video that you planned to try to advance the timing. As you may have noticed the Volvo pulls good at least up to 4000rpm as is, but we don’t know how much extra power we could gain. What’s your plan on timing advance? Early on I grounded those two pins in the computer box and also switched crank sensor polarity, but now that I know we both have the Regina system I realise that fix probably only applies to LH2.4?
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Hi JO, as for now im just happy driving around, but i have some ideas about ignition…
As when i put in my thermocouples, i put one in the exhaust, before the catalytic converter (hrrmm, empty 
) i have noticed higher egt (exhaust gas temperature) on wood, about 200-300°c higher, very talking is the phenomen when gas is rich on hydrogen, (car runs as on gasoline) the temperature is only around 150°c higher, when it runs sluggish (less hydrogen) temperature much higher.
I think this is talking there are some hp’s to scavenge by earlier ignition of slow burning gas.
Probably im going to try move the crank sensor, the reason for my procrastination in experimenting is ofcourse the d*mn hard-to-reach spot it’s placed, and trying to drill a extra hole down there…
Other ideas: put a crank trigger wheel on the front pulley, with a movable mounting point for the sensor.
-put an Opel distributor in front end of camshaft, with built-in trigger.
-try to find a late Volvo 245 with regina, these have a separate ecu for ignition, then butch said ecu, and “re-wire” it, trying to delay the signal 350° which should be “one turn ahead” to give about 10° earlier.
-change out the “intermediate shaft” (?) to B23 type, and put in a standard distributor (and keep the original for injection control, and inspection.
Ouch! My brain hurts…
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Great build Göran, happy it works so well 
I was also thinking of putting in an extra sensor somewhere with a variable mount to be able to experiment with timing and wire in a toggle switch to choose between the two sensors. So I guess it was an ok idea
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What do you think about spoofing the MAP sensor - make it think it has full vacuum (closed throttle) at all times and rely on rpm timing only?
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I don’t know… that map-sensor may give trouble… better not touch it?
But the idea seems good, but, maybe it reacts with retarding the timing, for detonation safety?
I have a feeling the system uses more parameters to adjust timing?
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If you unplug the MAF sensor, it usually retards the timing and runs rough. I did find out the other day, they make extension cables for MAF sensors with the right plugs. If it is a 3 wire connection, it most likely is analog and you could put a variable resistor on the sensor output wire to fine tune it.
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Thought about this yesterday, I can watch the ignition on my car live, but how can I see if there is a difference between petrol and gas?
Saw that system with distributor and fixed ignition is set at 51 degrees before and the pcm changes to the correct value depending on the rpm?
Is this something you could use?
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Yeah, that’s what been holding me back so far 
The crank sensor position is the way to go, but as you said - hard to get to - unless you have the engine out.
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Hi Jan, 123ignition is good, quality stuff, but waaay to expensive, if one wants stuff like it Pertronix ignitor works as good.
Hot-spark ignition sells good stuff cheap, i really recomend it, i put that in my old volvo tp21, and what a difference!
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