Woodrunner Volvo's

Yes, i’ve thought about one of them “long-neck angle grindes” i think it would be possible to stuff one down there, and do a massacre on the bell housing.


Ok, but is this something that can be used to reset the ignition?
I thought I read that the trim chips reset the ignition, maybe that’s one way?


Goran, you know internal combustion engines well, including your Volvo 2.3 engine, well, an Otto engine of this size (2.3 liters) is capable of reaching approx. 230Nm of torque (without turbo), when we look at the data from your Volvo, it has a torque of 185Nm. which means that it reaches about 80% of the possible. We have already talked about how much power and torque the engine loses when operating on wood gas and how to “fight” against it. Let me also mention for comparison the engine of my Feria 2.4 l, which should reach 140 Nm of torque on diesel fuel, which is the same. than the 2.0 SDI engine achieves. (again approx. slightly more than 80% of the possible - 168 Nm). Now both Volvo and Feria engines run on wood gas and what can we expect from them?
I have done various tests comparing the torque on diesel fuel and on wood gas (driving uphill, driving various tools) and I can say that with wood gas the engine loses approx. 10-20% of torque, which would mean that the 2.4 l engine has approx. 120 Nm of torque. I’ve tried various settings for the ignition timing, but now I haven’t moved the setting for a long time, which is approx. 10° before the top dead position, and I have a mechanical ignition system installed, which vacuum and centrifugally adjusts the ignition timing, it really works well.
How do you feel the power of the Volvo when it runs on wood gas? The electronic ignition adjusts the ignition timing quite well, but it is not a sin to test the operation in a different position of the sensor, I think it will be quite easy to drill a hole in the bell of the gearbox and move the sensor,…


Because Bell housing are usually aluminum now, i can quite figure out that is a real tool, you are referring to a chainsaw or your ulfberht.:rofl:


Hi Sean, i don’t know what a “ulfberht” is? But i was referring to one of these:



Hi Tone, good points everything, the truth is im very satisfied with the power of my volvo,
((((i only have trouble in one road intersection, where i really have to push it even on 100% gasoline to reach the speed fast enough… to avoid Audis and Bmw’s getting up in my *ss, honking… which in turn leads to me, on woodgas, have to let go of the throttle, to release a LOT of stinking smoke backwards from the gasifier air intake… this followed by i pull down the window, to be able to show which is the longest finger on my left hand)))

Joke aside, this is no real problem, the ignition advance i just based on the engine exhaust temperature readings, which is about 200°c higher on woodgas, which i think could be the cause of slower burning woodgas, i find it interesting to see if temperature drops some if i advance the ignition.

The more i think about it, i guess the volvo stays this way… the easiest way to move the ignition sensor would be to lift down the gearbox, which is no problem, but i need more reasons to do it.
Maybe if i let my father drive it a couple of days, due to his bad hearing, he would burn the clutch in no time, and a replacement would be desperately needed… :rofl: :woozy_face:


I checked the data from the engines of our American friends and I find that they achieve a slightly lower torque (76% of the possible) than the Volvo (80%). Mr. Wayne states that the drop in “power” when operating on wood gas is 25-30%, which again confirms my “measurements”, because if we subtract another 1/3 from the 76%, a little more than 50% of the torque remains, if that compared to a modern gasoline engine. Let me conclude by stating that the average engine when operating on wood gas achieves a torque of approx. 50Nm per liter of working volume, which is an important and interesting piece of information.


That is my fault. :slight_smile: It is what I get for googling Viking swords and grabbing the first name that pops up. :slight_smile:

Now that I looked it up further. it is actually a sword, that bears the inscription " vlfbertht" and was actually made in like Austria but many have been found in northern Europe in Viking graves, supposedly they were the highest quality steel of the time, I am pretty sure they were designed to pierce heavy armor like bell housings. :slight_smile:

I didn’t know long handled angle grinders existed, it looks pretty neat, but kind of hard to control…


I will also try to analyze the combustion or oxidation of wood gas, that is, if it consists of 20% H2, which burns into H2O and 20% CO, where CO2 is formed and 5% CH4, where CO2 and H2O are formed. What is important to us is what happens when these elements are oxidized, how high the temperature is and how much the pressure increases? At the same time, we must also take into account that wood gas contains 55% inert gases (nitrogen, water vapor,…) and that we add the same volume fraction of air with 21% oxygen and other gases (nitrogen). If we focus on the share of oxygen (which enables oxidation), we see that we enter 10.5%.
When we look at the oxidation of the mixture of gasoline and air, which is in a ratio of 1:15, the proportion of oxygen is approximately 19.5%.
We can see again that wood gas is 54% against gasoline.
Unfortunately, I cannot take into account the heat loss that occurs during combustion, because modern engines with direct gasoline injection, variable valve opening geometry, EGR system, high compression. …they have considerably reduced these losses and increased efficiency, well, with wood gas, all these things are actually not necessary, because according to its composition, it automatically works efficiently and economically, because the energy released during combustion is primarily used to heat a lot of inert gases and does not escape so much into the engine housing


Your last said Tone is key to understanding internal combustion piston engines.
The combustion HEAT is as much energy driving the pistons down by quick heating and expanding the in-cylinder inert gases; such as drawn in atmospheric nitrogen, as the increased pressure from expanding volume of combustion gases.
I have set up at least three topics on the DOW now trying to explain the dynamics of the quick-combustion, pressure-rise versus time/crank shaft angle already. Yet still these myths of a perfect fuel; with a higher the open air BTU’s; and the least nitrogen taken in, persist for IC piston engine power.
As you say in-cylinder inert’s will be heated expanded, then driving the crankshaft. Heat energy converted into mechanical rotational energy will then mean less combustion exhaust heat.
Ha! Ha! The true joke of NOx engine boosting is that the N’s stripped of thier O’s then is needed as an expansion (and cooling) gas. And that NOx “bottle-fed” engine will melt off the tops of the pistons quickly.

It is like this . . .
IF you multiple pass distill grain/fruit derived alcohol to nearly 100% alcohol, then to drink it you must re-blend cut it.
So just do not fuss so much for absolute purity for use in the first place.
Or drink a non-distilled wine, mead, or beer.

An air sourced woodgasifier makes a beer-type IC engine fuel.
You want a turbine quality engine fuel - that will take more steps.
You want a pumpable liquid rocket fuel - than even more steps of upgrading.
All upgrading steps will cost expense, time and equipments complexity.
All upgrading steps will result in more hard to dispose of purified-out by-products “wastes”.

Fancy people drink blend spirits to loosen up from stresses. Rocket living.
Working people drink caloric beers and meads for the sweated out rehydration and the carbohydrates to work a bit longer.
Wine drinkers??? Ah . . . Happy Juice?
Steve Unruh


Do you have the opportunity to measure how much resistance you have in your filter, and how far you have run on wood?
Where do you usually buy things for the chainsaw?


Hi Jan, i have drove it around 1600km, i haven’t looked at the filter yet. (Cause im lazy)
I only read vacuum after gasifier, haven’t put a gauge after filter yet (cause im lazy) :smiley:
I have in mind to fix this soon, but…
I haven’t noticed any lack of power that could be due to tight filter.

Chainsaw parts i buy alot from Skogsverktyg.se


Yesterday i thought it was time to check the filter on the volvo, after all this driving.
To my surprise there wasn’t much soot in the box, im very happy with this result.

About 1 liter of soot, after 1600km.
First emptying, if you have good eyes, one may see there are some pine needles in the soot, these are from when i built the filter, parking under a pine tree without filter lid.

Soot feels a little moist, so i probably should lift the filter cartridge and check the soot-cake.
But it still breaths easily, so probably ill wait some more.

When i carried the soot to the compost, ofcourse i stumbled, and dumped it in the driveway, remembering Mikkonen used to burn his soot in a pot, i drizzled some gasoline on it, and put it on fire, after gasoline burnt out, it keept smouldering until there only was some very fluffy ash left.