Hey Ray, thanks for the video. I pretty much followed those steps tonight and found my fuel rail pressure about 55psi. Sooooo that is not the problem, Guess I need to run it on charcoal gas again and see what the fuel rail pressure is when it acts up again.
Gary in PA
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Good. Is it true that this âfailureâ has never happened while running the engine on gasoline? Another test would be to switch from charcoal gas to gasoline several miles from home in the evening, so the computer shuts down with all the values for running on gasoline. The next morning, with OBDII scanner and fuel pressure gauge handy, it should start (hopefully).
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Next time it happens I would try disconnecting the battery long enough to clear the memory. It sounds like either a security issue or the computer is not correcting from running woodgas.
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HI gary what is the temp of gas hitting the MAF censer,that could be a concideration.I know some MAF censers have a heating eliment that heats up than measures the air moveing accrost it too control the fuel.
Hey Kevin and Gary.
EFI in cold staring up is in âopen loopâ,. This means that it is running in NO electronically processor allowed fine tune trimming. Once the electronic processor see that the engine IS running (crank, cam, manifold sensor active changes); and enough running time (internal processor timer); AND that the engine coolant indicates sufficient warming up. Only then will it go into processor fine tuning âclosed loopâ
But cold starting up and running does need some of the senors to give valid ârelevantâ information. These are classed as âprimaryâ sensors. Which are needed; and how important they are just depends on each and every manufacturer and system generation.
60âs/70âs German Robert Bosch systems with the hose between the air flow sensor and engine disconnected will not energize the fuel pump, or allow triggering of the fuel injectors. 100 PSI systems.
My 1994 Ford 302 SEFI with the air flow/snorkel hose disconnected, or even the hot wire air flow sensor electrically unplugged will start up, run fine cold in open loop and only give surging power problems once warmed up trying to closed loop run.
Nope for sure your Ford system air flow sensor is not causing a will not start problem.
If intermittently the engine controller could not see a cranking crankshaft, cam sensor input it would cause a will not start up problem. Wiil not allow a spark. Will not cycle the injectors.
Hereâs deal though: ALL manufactures and EFI systems since the early 90âs are very good about coding out for primary sensor problem. And after 1996 OBDII Fed mandates even very good about coding for even intermittent problems in these areas.
Having fun yet?
Try working for years in an independent auto shop where anything, and everything from the previous 30 years will come in with the obscure! Specific manufacture/dealership work the body of experience and knowledge in a smaller pond is the saving grace. Independent shop work anymore YOU MUST USE AN ON-LINE PAY FOR SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE. or go not so slowly crazy.
Gary there are 3-4 of these services available to you internet for pay. Credit card. Pay-Pal. How Master-Techs earn side money now. Yeah. Iâve both contributed and used these a lot. professionally.
As one of the fellows who responded to you said he found his solution on a Net specific vehicle model owners group/forum. Theses work well too once a vehicle 10 year or older after for enough owner experiences/feedback. Used two of these for different problem-solves on our 99 mini-van until sold off recently.
MarvinW one of the eveoled after 1996 OBDII Fed mandats was that the ECM/CPU would NOT clear with just a simple battery disconnect. Some do have multiple steps manual clearing/reset procedures. Net look these up. Most do need a coded command for an external scanner.
Again. Having fun yet?
Simpler, old 'n slow, âstupidâ late 80âs early OBDIâs are just so much easier to work with. You can still just even swap âknow-goodâ components to diag with. All manufactures evolved after ~1999-2003 where the ECM/PCM have internally broadcasted serial numbers registered to the vehicle then network system. Swap in and out then will put the vehicle into no-start anti-theft. New/replacement ECM/PCM has to be serial number registered by use of a manufacturers scanner.
âBack to the Futureâ won. â1984ismâsâ did come. Just a couple of decades later. Ainât this just so much fun?
OBDIII bi-directional telemetrics mandates just around the corner with Big Brother then doing the driving able to control, slow you, and shut you down remotely. You bunch of anti-social speeding, pee-loot-ters, you.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Yes steve u i am glad i dont try and beat the clock on fixing computor bug problems,I know its in open loop,so thats not likely the problem,as you say the computor closed loop cycle is for fuel fine tuneing, not a no start problem, allthough at times these cars can deceive us,as with my neybers 1995 silveroto 1500, the coolent sensor controls the fine tuneing for the fuel, The only problem is if the sensor it faulty,she wont start,untill you unplug the coolent sensor.called a GM mechanic friend and he said unplug the coolent sensor, and it started right up,that was after we replaced everthing else.went and put new sensor in and fine tuned back too normal,kinda like the dakotas with the wireing problem in the same place more than twice.I am with you on the OBD 1 systems, change out a known good part too verify or narrow down the problems, I am waiting too see what the bug is as i may gasifi one of the newer rangers myself.
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Yes Kevin you are correct that specific vehicle system âshitâ does happen alright.
Dodge pickups when the wiring harnesses gets pulled loose back to the transmission/tranfer case CAN then get moving driveline chafed through. IF the wire then bouncing insulation worn off and ground out is the PCM tranny sensor low voltage output power supply wire it will kill the ignition too.
Why?
Same PCM internally regulated power supply output is common with the in-distributor Hall sensor (cam sensor). Kills the output signal with that primary sensor. No run - intermittently - on cornering and driving bouncing.
That GM coolant sensor was power side shorting out pulling down to zero volts a PCM power supply circuit. Unplugging got rid of the power supply circuit short to ground. A dealership journey man knows where to look by experienced shop roteâs. A Master Tech wants to see a wiring /power flow diagram to see just what, and all is on each circuit. Old series Christmas tree lights!
Ainât it all just fun? Not.
S.U.
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HI Steve,very good answer,i knew it was a short, i just never had excess to a wire skidmatic,i will keep that thought in mind when diagnosis,I know i have fixed cars before just unpluging sensors one at time,too see if it helped.PS I took the ASE test for engine tune 1 and auto electric and passed back in 2004 the questions were so tricky i donât know how i passed,on there 80 percent minimum.
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Hey Kevin and anyone else interested.
Unplugging controller moduals off of the data wire link WAS a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep 90âs, into early 2000 factory trained method.
Realize anymore past the early 90âs that the diferemt in vehicle electronic moduals have to exchange and process digital information. ONE of the mduals on the two wire net was designated as Master. Meant it had to feed a internal power supply regulated constant DC carrier voltage. And it regulated the information priorities to prevent âcollisionsâ. The actual digital data was carried on the top of this low voltage constant carrier voltage. Pond full of water - you know the fish from the ripples. eh.
In that era the modual most needing the sensor input had the sensor output wired over to it - no matter how far away it was. And IT processsed/used that often analog sensor output into digital data pacs. Put these out onto the serial streaming two wire data "buss"line. Any other modual needing this info like RPM, vehicle speed then snagged the digital info pacs off.
So ANY modual on this data buss-net internally shorting out; or failing trash talking, could crash the system.
Euro adopted and later US/Asian adopted CAN-buss takes the individual sensors output to the closest physical located modual. It get digetally processed there even if that modual does not need it then put onto the data network.
Lees wiring - less possible problems were the goal. Problem was/it these run at MUCH higher system clock speeds, run internal modual hotter, lending to higher modual failure problems.
AND these CAN-busses the systems that then have requirement that each modual internally broadcast out itâs pre-registered serial number. Unplugged âmissingâ modual on the net and the system still will probably work using stored data from the last time it did get valid ID and info from that modual. Put an wrecking yard none register modual into the system and it will scream âAlien Invasion!â. Theft detected disable, either no start, no-fun shut itself down. And stay Theft Detected shut down until factory scanner cleared. Or; Long one-four hour valid manual cycled cleared.
You need the specific system sequence procedure; one to two valid fob/keys; and a really good smooth output battery charger to do manual resets.
ALL just So, So much fun.
S.U.
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Well instead of erasing my down-mouthâing above.
What does work for problem systems diagâing once you can no longer know good parts swap out?
Thermal shocking. In the summer, Cool-Cold shock with the AC at Max. Winter: Heat-Hot after overnight outside sitting with the heater/defroster on Max. Use a wall plug-in hair drier/paint stripper. (we used to use cans of R-12 refrigerant to cold shock âfast and cleanâ, a NO-NO now . . . shhhh . . . still works with R134a).
Tap/rap/thump shock the modual and adjacent areas. Really. Was an early Ford Dura-Spark modual in-field checking recommendation along with the Freon thermal shocking.
If you can make a state in function change - IT IS AN INTERMITTENT BAD, confirmed.
You break, melt something you were too aggressive testing.
System working: wiring harness twisting, pulling; plug wiggling/pulling testing. Again any change in functioning and youâve focused in on the problem area.
In fact GaryG, Ford had such problems with broken motor mounts in the front wheel drive Taurusâs stressing and internal work-breaking chassis to engine harness wires that they programmed in a special wire harness wiggle test mode into their vehicle computers. Iâve use this test mode in Fords up through 1995 to find problems. These could run running cylinder power balance tests too. I do not know if these are applicable to yours.
Last using a very strong halogen pinpoint light and a magnifying loop: unplug and look in very carefully at all of the relevant circuits harness end plugs. Especially at the power and ground supply terminals within these multi-pin connectors. Look at the plastic plug surrounds for signs of over-heating/melting/discoloring.
At the PCM/ECU in particular since all of these terminals are the same size the clever engineering trick is to have multiple terminals as positive power in, and multiple terminal as grounding out to get enough paralleled circuit wattage capacity. Lose one branch and the others will cascade overload, over heat. Then make in-use intermittent connections.
Yeah. Chrysler/Dodge 4th gen minivans at their cooling fan controller harness end plugs!
Chrysler/Dodge 4th and 5th gen minivans at their âwave solderedâ instrument clusters, + and - solder connections!
Jeeps rough road shake loosening their back of instrument cluster harness plugs!
Honda and Toyotaâs with the coil in cap ignitions engine heat hardening then engine vibration breaking down the to ignition engine harness!
80âs early 90âs full sized GM car rwdâs with an inner center of dash harness to harness connector that seemed to always use load overheat and die killing half the dash power!
Iâve hard way experienced all of these. And more. No manufacture is innocent.
So get frustrated . . . thump on it! At least be testing, and make you feel better.
On your own stuff, youâve already bought it anyhow. It is yours to break, On The Road To Better.
S.U.
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Well guys, almost two weeks ago I was once again having issues getting my 2004 Ford running, Darn thing would not start in the morning, Turned engine over. Pumped the gas pedal. Sprayed ether down the air inlet. Checked to make sure all the plugs were firing. Even checked the fuel rail pressure (60psi). Finally got it going on gasoline again and drove it to work but switched over to charcoal gas about two miles down the road, It ran well. About two miles before getting to work I turned on the fuel pump, opened up the air valve, shut off the charcoal gas to the air intake and drove the rest of the way on gasoline, My big fear was will the truck start when I leave work? At 4pm, I tried to start the truck and no go, All the settings were just the way I left them after arriving 8 hours earlier but would not start. A little rumble from time to time, but the engine did not take, I was getting worried about running the battery down so decided to forgo gasoline and just try to start it on charcoal gas, something I had never done before. Well, it worked but the engine really ran rough. Kind of like running on 2 cylinders of the 4 cylinder engine, When pushing on the accelorator, it would almost die, Finally it âcaughtâ and would rev up, Got home OK. What I noticed was it ran well going down the road. Easy to switch from charcoal gas to gasoline and back, The problem I am having is getting the darn truck started,
I think Iâve stumbled upon a starting proceedure that works. I drive to my destination on charcoal gas and use no gasoline before shutting down, Close down the gasifier and walk away. When ready to go home, open the air inlet valve and close the charcoal gas valve. Turn on the fuel pump and turn the engine over, Then turn off the fuel pump and turn the engine again for a second or two, Turn the engine over again and pump the accelorator and it starts up, Quickly turn on the fuel pump and Iâm up and running, At this time I top off the gasifier with new charcoal, shake the grate and set the fluid drip,
Iâve used this starting proceedure about 5 times and it seems to be working,
One other lesson Iâve learned, DO NOT use large pieces of charcoal. I did not have enough engine grade charcoal so dumped in some larger pieces, Well, I was loosing power and had to finish the trip on gasoline, I opened the gasifier and of course waited for the PUFF which happens right on cue, The course charcoal allowed the fire to move to the top of the charcoal bed. This basically formed a tube allowing some CO2 to sneak by. The fire should be contained in a ball at the base of the gasifier, but the coarse charcoal did not confine it,
Enough for now,
Boy am I having fun 
Gary in PA
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Good on ya Gary!
Glad to here ya figured it out, I figured ya would 
Happy Motoring.
TerryL
Sounds like youâre getting some extremely rich running, and managing to clear it out by cutting the fuel pump.
Have you thought about installing a brake controller or other device to reduce the fuel pressure? Also, have you tried resetting the computer?
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I second that ^ the brake controller has been working extremely well for my fuel pump.
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Wellllll, the saga continues 
My new found method of starting did not work a few days ago and the Mule would not start. After reading up some more on auto diagnostics I rechecked the spark. Pulled wire #1, inserted a sparkplug and grounded it while turning the engine over. Good spark. Same with the other 3 plugs. OK shoot some ether and splash some gasoline in the throttle body and it should at least fire. Well not a fart. It was 10pm and the Mule has a scheduled appointment the next morning to get inspected. I was resigned to calling the garage but decided to see if the truck would start on charcoal gas. Took about 5 minutes to get good flaring gas (used an oil drip too) Started cranking the engine over, Took a few tries, but by golly gumby it started to run 
I revved it up several times and then turned on the fuel pump while opening the air valve, Away it went, Took it for a short drive and parked it, This morning it started up (on gasoline) and made to to the garage on time.
Seems the spark is not an issue. I need to check more into the fuel pump, I never hear it running, even with the cap of the gas tank off and my ear next to it, When you turn the key on, the fuel pump should pressure up, correct? If I depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail, nothing comes out. When the engine is turned over and then the schrader valve is depressed, a small squirt of gasoline comes out.
Enough for now, At least this vehicle has a fitting name âMuleâ
Gary in PA
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Gary; Havenât worked on your particular year but most Fords have a FUEL FILTER along the frame directly under the driver: on the inside . Fairly cheap simple fix. If you get a new filter you might want to make sure you get new plastic clips. They get old and brittle. TomC
Oh yes. and check the exhaust system. We had a couple of trucks that the catalytic converter rotted on the inside and plugged the exhaust â second thought probably not your problem. Just tying to think of some dumb things that have caused me problems.
By the way. I have lost all confidence in the âmewâ starting fluids-- they ainât your either anymore. It doesnât really mean you have a spark problem if they donât fire on this new stuff.
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Good morning Gary
If you have a cutting torch handy you may try experimenting starting the truck on itâs gas ( acetylene or propane ) .
Make sure you use NO oxygen !!! I blew a chain saw up once adding some oxygen !!!
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Good advice, Tom. Hereâs a story to go along with it.
We left for Webster, Ma. for Thanksgiving, 79 Corolla ran good for 10 miles and then it gradually lost power. Five more miles and I was down to a crawl. I shut it off for a look see, nothing obvious and it started right up, idled great (tried it several times). Hmmm, crawled home at 5 mph in the breakdown lane. Without a momentâs hesitation, our neighbor offered us a car. Everyone should have a neighbor like ours⌠talk about Thanksgiving.
Anyhow the problem turned out to be a collapsed (eaten up internally) muffler. Replaced it, problem gone.
Pepe
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I was told as a kid, that it can be problematic for a teacher, if you smash a potato,apple or something over the end of the tail pipe on their car. Hmmmm! Interesting. TomC
âMythBustersâ tested that one and every vehicle they tested just blew out the potato without any effort. They then filled the muffler with concrete trying to âreplicate the resultsâ, and that did stall the motor right away.
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