nothing important was here
i used fiberglass. I had my intake pipe come in the center of the top of my tank (portable air tank) and go all the way through to about 4-5 inches from the bottom. Then I wrapped a wrap of insulation around the center pipe and wired it tight in place. Then I wrapped another layer and wired that. Then another layer all the way till it was almost to tight to fit into the tank. This intake forced the gas to the bottom of the tank and then up through the insulation. Last run I had wasn’t good and I made some tar. Some tar did make it through the filters. I may have to pull it apart to check what it looks like before I fire it up again. Just sharing ideas with you.
Good luck,
meschke
yet ive NEVER seen a woodgas truck just rollin down i35 or through okc, i look forward to changing that
Good Morning Brent.
If you had been on I-35 it should have caught your eye, bright ugly green.
Spent a few hours at The Noble Foundation in Ardmore then up I-35 through Oklahoma City and then west.
nothing important was here
Hi Brent,
For the lower openning in your reductin bell I beleive the rule of thumb is you have this twice as big as your restrictor openning. This is what I do and its been working for me. I also extend my fire tube past the bottom of the reduction bell. I would go at least 2" and you can build your grate so its a bit larger with a fence the raps around the perimater of the grate. Just remember what the whole purpose of the inverted cone is. Its to insulate and the more the merrier.
thanks matt, with this info im ready to get on the gloves and get welding, the anticipation is killing me lol
EDIT
previously on this thread i had posted long replies but i have edited them for the dial up folks, about half the pics and half the fluff, so you can continue to keep updated, i dont think ill have to edit anymore and will keep this in mind in future posts, very soon ill have pics of the 460 build, the gasifier swing away bumper, and my bronco will be painted in AL’s liner heat and noise reducer, and bedliner with various additives and colors, a lime green bronco, and silver top, silver runflat rims, with black bumpers. im also rebuilding the 5 speed, im acquiring materials for the gasifier and when i have a bunch of new pics ill post them
nothing important was here
this is coming along nicely
engine is back, lookin super clean
im going to build the engine and transmission, mate them and then set them in together, then put on the tcase under the truck
the paint im layin down looks good, i have the truck primed, and heat and noise reducer sprayed
ive been talking to sherwin williams about a “neon green” for the truck, they kinda made me mad bc they first said they had exactly the color i wanted and i could come in and get it mixed up, then that turned into “kermit the frog green” and it would take a week to get it mixed right… im about to use the black dye in the bedliner kits and just spray the truck black 
just bc touchups would be really easy with gloss black
im also talking to my thermodynamics professor, were going to figure out the heat and fuel BTU output of my wayne keith unit so that i can build an adequate cooling system, ill post my findings
i think im going to run an oil centerfuge as my 460’s oil filter, my neighbor gave me one for free, then he also gave me the huge semi truck muffler, i think since its light weight and hightemp ill use that for the heat exchange cyclone
i have found the rest of the parts i need for my gasifier build, ive laid them out, and im going to keep welding on it soon
im getting really pumped about finishing it, ive got hay and wood, i just need more hours in the day
lights projector housings with 55 watt ballast HID systems
im really looking forward to getting this truck done, maybe it will be running in the shop around christmas
with my gf helping me im actually making better progress! haha
Hi BrentW
Well here’s some positive comments for you.
It is always impressive to me to see someone actually moving forward DOing towards a goal.
I have also been impressed with the quality of your encouragement and advice to new guys in the thinking out loud planning stages.
Two different long term driving Euro woodgas drivers have fed back to me important to decrease the soot sticking and accumulating in the intake manifold to remove the oil vapor laden PCV system and go back to a draft tube system. Sad for me to hear this as the American high flow PCV systems been great here in my marintine climate to keep the always saturated air condensate from crankcase collecting and then acids forming with the combustion NO’s and SO’s in the oil. PCV elimination something to consider if you are going to be woodgasing on this fresh built engine until the rings are well seated in.
Also I sumble back on another pictured swing-a-way bumper woodgas system in Mr Vesa’s “Wood Gas For Mobile Applications” book. Cannot re-transmit it do to copyright and book purchase agreements. But I can describe it. On the back of an Audi 100 station wagon. Roof mounted horizontal fore and aft orientated 9 tube cooler. This was sloped front back with square tube appearing front and back manifolds having screw-in clean out plugs per tube like Waynes. This part actually clever as you have to somehow get the gas from the the back to the front of the vehicle anyways. I think the sloping was for condensate drainage and to catch better moving air flow. Looks like a car top cargo carrier. And stout enough built to stack sacks of wood fuel on.
Before gasifer system vehicle weight listed as 1240 kg (2734 pounds). After system install all up vehicle wieght of 1530 kg (3373 pounds).
Regards
Steve Unruh
nothing important was here
IM BACK IN BLAAAACK
first coat of bedliner, sherwin williams just doesnt get how to treat customers, so i used the black pigment that came with my alsliner
i have sprayed 7 gallons of bedliner, 4 gallons of heat and noise reducer, 2 gallons of rustoleum gloss black under the truck, and 3 gallons of primer over the whole thing
5 more gallons of black bedliner will get my touchups on the body, and the doors and top
after my painting is done its time to build the driveline/engine and get the gasifier bumper attached
happy wrenching
Now that’s a new idea. Don’t have to worry about scratching it, I guess. Keep us updated, this just gets more interesting.
.
brent, I would love to hear all about the bed liner paint job. I’ve been considering having Line-x or Rhinoliner paint a Toyota pickup for me… Can I do it myself and make it look good? Don’t want black though. I know this is off topic of wood-gas, but not completely…maybe.
thanks
carson
I will bring it back on topic. 
At what temp does that stuff catch on fire?
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According to the instructions, and sales brochure (You have to call or contact your dealer to get a copy of the msds.) The heat n noise, treatment will take up to 500F/260C, and reflects 45F or more heat. I was just thinking it would suck to have it catch on fire. I don’t think that will happen. I don’t think it is applied thick enough to catch the whole truck on fire.
Hmmm.
Intersting.
Now 'fess up.
You fellows doing this as a DYI anti-speed radar and lidar coating aren’t you?
Regards
Steve Unruh
Could be an advancement in highway cammo ?
Brent,
Are you using the stock computer for your EFI when you get it going again ? I have a 460 project that I wanted to make EFI and have to start from scratch. My motor is pre 87, and I have the intake and stuff off of a later model that is not interchangeable. May be able to use some of those parts, but now have a Edelbrock Performer 460 manifold and injector bungs, but cannot locate fuel rail material. Was looking into a MegaSquirt unit for the controller. I also have a Bosch computer off a 4cyl Volvo 740 turbo. Not sure if I could use that somehow in a batch fire arrangement.