did you see the myth busters show where they bomb proofed a wall with bedliner material?
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If you are looking for a good oil filter system this is what we do for marine engines (sure we have centrifuges too) - consider installing a Gulf Coast Filter (http://gulfcoastfilters.com/) canister system - uses a Bounty paper towel roll as an element else you can buy an expensive sock-type - the Bounty solution cost about $1.25 per oil change - it works great - if you really want to nail down oil change parameters take a regular oil sample and send it in for analysis - then you will know how often and what is wearing. Check eBay and Craigslist.org for buys on a Gulf Coast Oil Filter canister.
You know what TP is for? Avoid using it in a filter with your valuable engine.
Doug
Hey BrentW.
Nice lower end 460 pictures.
Those crankshaft counter weights give scale to just how big the pictons/rods they are having to balance out.
Best Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Brent, too bad about the GEET. If it’s alright, we’ll leave this thread up for historical reasons. It’ll be here if and when you get back to woodgassing.
bronco has been converted from efi to carb, ive done alot of syngas research since a year ago. ive looked high and low for a smaller easier way to get around the gas hog problem. its obvious diesels can run waste motor/veggie oil, and its not apparently obvious that spark engines can utilize waste oils as fuel, but if the oil is GASIFIED, then it is possible. ill be experimenting with an oil gasification heat exchanger on my broncos exhaust system. if and when it works out, ill post what ive got
ive talked to sean french about it, we both agree its possible, and theres patents that talk about it, so im about to see if i can build it right and get it working
heres a few videos to show what im talking about:
looks as good as any woodgas flare ive ever seen 
Good Morning Brent ,
Hey good to hear from ya.
Keep us posted but please be careful with the oil ! Boiling oil can be dangerous , on the video he was just playing with a few ounces and if one is dealing with the quantity to power a vehicle at 70 mph there will have to be some quantity involved .
I’m not sure the videos were the true definition of gasification . The same can be done with just about anything that will burn. Gasoline , oil , grease , car tires biomass etc.
I know as far as a lot of us farmers used motor oil is worth more than diesel or gasoline. We let it gravity settle, filter and use it for hydraulic applications
Thanks
Wayne
its good to hear from you too wayne, very nice book, and i look forward to a woodgas project in my future after my bronco and jet boat are done. i want a woodgas generator, and WG small engine pickup/ or diesel pickup on oil.
EDIT:
so far a few things have changed:
electric heating is much hotter than exhaust gas, especially on cooler days the exhaust was not hot enough.
i have successfully gasified motor oil, kerosene, and veggie oil, (will try old gasoline, automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid, good gasoline, diesel, solvent, and gear grease) then i have been able to light the “smoke”
that comes out of the gasifier, and it burns very well.
im operating around 1200 deg F. 1000 watts, several ounces-1qt, and trying fine mist on the elements. the unit is very small compared to the conventional
wood gasifier, and the output is very large, the whole system could end up fitting under the hood… at 1000 watts consumption I’m getting a 200 amp alternator
with my dual batteries to keep up with demand
ran out of time this christmas break, but with a flammable gas and my electric heating prototype i believe i can get the 460 running on this “oil gas”
i have videos and pictures i will post later, and if anyone wants to try this make sure the feedstock has as little water as possible, otherwise bursts of gas occur
and it sounds like an over heated frying pan
i really don’t understand why more people don’t try this… its pretty straight forward, but i haven’t driven on it yet…
Brent, I am glad to see you continuing your experiments. How much residue is building up on your heating element? I am sure you know you can buy a centrifuge on Ebay to take out all of the solids. What kind of volume are you doing in a session? My truck would require 8 ounces a minute to hit highway speeds. If you run the gas product through say a two foot pipe does the gas recondense? Good luck!
Garry
with the heater at 1100 F there is no residue, changes in surface appearance are seen but no thick build up. i designed it to be cleaned out with a wire wheel easily, my output looks like it would run a 4 cyl engine, so i am playing with some parameters, so far i havent run the gas through a long pipe just about two feet, and it was a thought that if it did recondense it will flow back the way i made it. its tilted upwards. i also have not ran an engine yet, i have been busy. im really interested in how you arrived at 8 ounces a minute, if you wouldnt mind sharing, im really hoping to get it producing enough gas with 1000 watts, but if i had to go higher it wouldnt be the end of the world, with my smog pump on the efi 460 gone i can add another alternator if necessary. i just want to join the crowd thats driving “practically for free” but i dont have a whole lot of room on this truck. its almost roadworthy at this point i just need to dump some more money into it for some parts and such then finish my experiments and get it driving. im really proud of my completely stainless steel fuel line/pump/filtration system with swagelok fittings, my goal is to pour anything flammable in the tank and the gasifier can turn it all into a flammable gas to run on, or if it happens to be mostly gasoline/ethanol/paint thinner/ or something that would work in a carb then theres that option aswell. ill do pics later i got a new phone and im about to rebuild my dell xps bc i dropped it so i dont have any available to upload…
Alright, I’ll see if I can do this again. My truck ( heavy and under powered 5800# 4.6L ) gets 15MPG at 65MPH on the highway. That is 4.33 gallons per hour. 4.33 gallons = 555 ounces per hour. 555 / 60 = 9.24 ounces per minute. I think I did 60 mph last nite. My old Handbook for Mechanical Engineers ( bought for a quarter at the public library sale) gives the latent heat for oil products such as heptane, benzene, gasoline etc. as less than 200 BTU per pound. 200 BTU = 58.6 watt hrs. One pound = 16 ounces so you need 9.24 / 16 = .5775 X 58.6 = 33.84 Watt hrs. x 60 = 2030 watts per hour plus the heat required to raise the oil from 70 degrees to the point at which it vaporizes about 574 F. Motor oil weighs about 7 pounds per gallon. To raise the temp. 1 degree requires 7 x 4.33 x .58(heat capacity of oil) = 17.6 BTU x (574 - 70 ) = 8860 BTU = 2596 watts additional. Plus derate for efficiency. 2596 + 2030 = 4626 watts / 80 % eff. = 5782 watts About 8 HP. About 2.5 x 200 A alternators If any of this is correct it begins to show the difficulty of using electricity for this purpose. 4.33 gallons of oil has at least 433000 BTU of heat of which 1/3 goes out the tailpipe = 142890 btu = 41300 watts Exhaust gas temps are at least 1100F so it becomes an engineering problem to use this source. The exhaust is free and electricity removes HP at the start.Be sure before you use any of this info that you verify it with someone who knows something.
Garry
Morning GarryW.
Yes you are accurate enough with your maths and energy balances.
Absolutly correct on your alternator generations limitations for the heat wattage to be able to drive this process.
BrentW a true story I expereinced is about a fellow back in about 1982 who I went out and repossessed and refunded back his purchased 100 amp alternators when I learned he was going to use them for on vehicle heating of vaporized HC fuels.
He later died in a vapor flash explosion.
His widow then sued someone else and thier insurance company instead to support her fatherless children.
I did e-mail you this true experience already. You probably forgot it.
Vaporized HC fuels are wickedly dense. Unstable. And subject to ANY light-offs from any source including themselves from just static energizing flowing heated through piping. Any year. Any refinery explosion. Apollo 13 from an in-tank electrical malfunction while “stirring”.
Anyhow. You and I have talked about this at length already.
GarryW is correct. You have plenty enough heating BTU’s out the IC engine exhaust stream of a heated up and running IC engine for your vaporizing process.
Use engine coolant heat BTUs to first preheat your liquid fuels stream. Actual woodgas this SAFE heat would be for wood finsh drying: Doug Williams/Fluidyne “Power in the Hills”; Ben Peterson’s Victory Grid; now soon to be ZA Patrick at his mill.
Use IC engine exhaust heat as your main vaporize heat. Actual woodgas this not-so-safe heat would be for primary hearth air heat boosting or initial wet wood drying: WayneK’s systems and Jim Masons GEK IV and V.5 hearth engine exhaust heating pyrocore Hotttoti’s.
So your proposed electric heat is really just to get the whole processes fuel vapor making and IC engine up to heating “speeds”.
Two solutions to this other than an expensive on-board mondo electrical heating solution:
Start and warm up the engine on an “easy” fuel like gasoline or propane. This will give you the best turn key drive-a-way capabilty. This will give you the running heating engine sources.
May seem like cheating or a refined fuel dependency. Not really. I CAN home heat with winter wet picked up fuel wood (very inefficiently!!). I can ONLY do this by having some already dried fuel wood to make a good hot glowing char bed FIRST. Woodgasifier basics 101 - first fill with pre-made wood char to above the nozzles!! Lote this to make the CLEAN heat BTUs to drive the system processes along.
I once had an all brass mountaineering cooker stove that you would external heater cup fill with a bit’o the white gasoline fuel to pre-warm and heat pressurize it. No pump to wear out or break. It would work at any altitude and temeratures unlike bottled butane and propane. More fuel BTUs’ to carry in the liquid white gasoline than in the less dense butane and propane also. Same principals.
Second way would be to use some of your HC liquids fuels in a liquid fueled burner to make the vaporizing heat to then make the fuel vapors to fuel the main IC “heat” engine from a cold start up. Very long, slow. stepped process get up-to-running and drive-a-way with this sceme. Like going back to the steam motive days. Large fraction of an hour to get everything up to temperatures, producing, and have the engine power to move out of your own shadow. Welcome back to the good 'ol days of the 1950’s. Even welcome back to the 1970’s automotive with minutes long warming up for safe not cough, spit and sputter dieing drivability times. Go back and read some Consumer Reports from those times. They actually did rate new vehicles by thier warming up times to good drivability then.
Only thing good about the good old days was the cheap fuels. Were they really all that cheap though all things considered?
Regards
Steve Unruh
thanks for the numbers garry, i think a large part of engineering new things is running some sanity check numbers. in the past i have remembered the 1/3 of the fuel energy is used for motive power, 1/3 is waste heat through the radiator/exhaust, and 1/3 is in the exhaust as unused chemical energy in the form of hydrocarbons. i have always wondered how people end up using gasoline vapor to run their engines and talk about how the exhaust is so clean and how that compares to the 1/3,1/3,1/3. i can verify from earlier experiments that the exhaust from my 460 engine was very clean smelling. the only problem i had was that i had designed the “geet” system the way paul p told me to and the hoses were so small i had no real flow in or out of the engine. i could easily conduct another experiment i guess with gasoline vapor and see if it has any power without intake and exhaust restrictions. i agree with your numbers, and im sure if i had that much electrical power devoted to smoking the oil i would have plenty of power. but im willing to sacrifice some power to get to the point of “operating on liquid wastes.” if anyone at this point would like to see what has been done, a guy named “bill kendrick” on youtube runs an inline 6 engine with the same kind of heaters im using, and he uses gasoline. it shows the gasoline is “smoked” and the engine burns it very well. he revs it a bit, but mostly talks, i have talked to him and based on what he told me my guess is 2000 watts would deliver good results for oil, since he was using gasoline and 1000 watts. of course theres no math involved on my guesstimate. and i wanted to see what something similar to his design would deliver with oil, theres plenty of room for improvement on my crude design but this could eventually provide me with the solution ive been looking for, i definitely wont be breaking any laws of thermodynamics
another guy to check out is marcello bartolotta he has something similar to geet, but completely different and ive talked to him about using exhaust heat to vaporize oil for fuel.
and steve u, its good to hear from you again. and yes i realize this is dangerous stuff. i water leak check my welds, and im using small amounts and moving up. i cool the gas before introducing air, and to me that seems about the same approach as wayne. the heat isnt available when the oxygen is, and oxygen isnt available when the heat is. i see where it is easy to make a fatal mistake as i work slowly and think about what i do before i do it. i have had plenty of bad ideas and hope this isnt one of them. i have not forgot about your friend we spoke of. i have thought of both of your mentioned approaches. and at first exhaust seemed exactly the way to go. but i assure you, go get a cheap thermocouple/temp kit and probe your external pipe temps of any vehicle. i was very disappointed reading 500 deg f right at the end of my exhaust manifold. and i checked a few others, only right at the head could i get 700 degrees on our blue truck with 460 and headers. even worse when it was 50 deg f outside the temps were around 150-200deg f less. this is why i elected to shift directions towards bill k’s type set up. he shows it working with gasoline plain as day, and to me oil shouldnt be too far off from what hes got. and worst case a flame would definitely provide the btus needed to get the engine running and i plan on doing exactly that as a experiment to see what it will take to get the 460 running. a container with oil that is heated with a torch and fumes sent to the intake. this could be done easily in a day with the stuff i have and then i can observe what the 460 would need and take some measurements. along with observing running characteristics and everything else. i could scavenge wasted heat to help meet my goals, and it might prove necessary.
sadly i dont expect to make great progress until this summer comes around. school is my number 1 priority. but when i get something worth noting ill post it ill add the pics i have later and the truck is really starting to look good!