Just thinking of a second wk heat exchanger after a small er metal one too expel the heat the aluminum heat exchanger would not tollerate.Then one could roll with out a cooling rack or just a very small cooling rack.roof rack.ect.And save on overall weight and lost heat.
2 Likes
Are there any infered temp test between the bottom crossover and the cooling rack conection from the heat exchanger. I havent checked my temp changes yet either.?
1 Like
Kevin, I wonder if my heat exchanger is losing efficiency. If I am running 1000F on the cross over, it will get to 800 of the cooling rack input. I discolored the paint going to Belton. 
1 Like
I just checked my crossover after a 18 mile trip test, 450 f and 200 f at the cooling rack conection.got a bridge on the coals or a puff back and pulled over waited till clear and opened too ajust chunks, she started right back up and drove 8 miles back home. The grate was running about 1100 when i tested the temps. My heat exchanger was over sized then most of the dakota. Builds and it only changed the temps about 250 f or so it seems, the temps change fast from grate too heat exchaxnger crossover. About 700 f a foot of travel ,that might not cool that well with out the heat excha nger bringing the cooler air through the center of the crossover. So its probly helping more than we think overall temp stabillity.I dont like hooking the plunmming too the heat exchanger, i fact i could not reach if wanted so i did just plaze a 12" or so hole in the exchanger houseing too put the plumming in then weld plate back in, thats the Glory of a plazma cutter.small cut line.
1 Like
Thanks carl for the help getting the gauges all working. I would not have been able with out your vidios and dow suport. I was woundering how hot should my grate go at max. So far it runs up too 1300 f . as wayne says in his vidios it gets between 2 and 3 000 at the air input area. PS. I checked my miles per pound for last night and it was right on 17 pounds of wood too gallon of gasoline miles equivilent. Drove 27 miles on 57 pounds lite weight white pine, thats what too expect with a carburator wood hauler geared low for working. Caint wait too finish my 4 cyl s10 too get some chared wood glowing on top that burn tube. PS no signs of tar at all last night this morning either.BBB.
2 Likes
Hi, Kevin!
26.5.2017
Excellent!
This is the right way to present one own’s plans and construction ideas! That is the best thing with having a personal “site”, where one can present own personal ideas, without forcing them upon anyone else… in the midst of somebody else’s strive to solve some construction details, with help or without.
2 Likes
Ok max gas man, I gess this is my best thread to express my ideas other than WK book plan ideas.Thanks for the thought on building ideas.
2 Likes
Max have you tried any ceramic blanket burn tube results, as far as temp Above the restrictor. I will be tying this like Justins 16 gauge burn tube and ceramic blanket. Just woundered if you have tryed that effect.
1 Like
Hi, Kevin!
26.5.2017
Justin’s modification of the long WK tube seems good, but one has to be very observant and “easy-going” in the beginning, until the “crust” surface gets strong.
For Imbert hearths, I see no need for “foregin” insulating materials inside the hearth.
Outside the air-mantel around the hearth there is a good motivation to use proper insulation, if the ready gases are drawn “through” it,
or outside the surrounding original ready-gas mantel.
Good luck on your “site” and elsewhere!
1 Like
Thanks Max, i am hopeing it warms up quiker than my big truck that runs great unce warmed up, i went over board on the steel around the hearth and it takes a good 20 minuts too warm it up too idle temps, allso due too carb plate type manford leaks and wet’ish wood.other than that i use it for hauling wood when needed anyway. I bought the big chevy truck for a wood gas learner and a back up vehicle when the other truck needs any repairs. I have a pretty good idea on the WK style burn tube length for my 4cly engine system. Thanks See what the differences turn out over all Later.
2 Likes
In a lmbert there is a natural ashcone around the firetube, so like Max sayd, l dont see much need for internal insilulation. Ash/char is a great insulstion, althugh its fragile. I was thinking to try and spray it with some sodium silicate, glass water, shuld bake the ash to a hard crust.
1 Like
Hi kristijan i thought the ash was just around the restrictor and the char was mostly white ash in the ash pan on imbert designs? Then i thought i herd you saying most the char was not white, as you know WK ash dump is black small charbed in the ash pan.
1 Like
The ash/char shuld start at the restriction yes, and folowing a 60* slope up to the nozzles. Shealding the wall of the oxidation zone.
1 Like
Thanks i know what the 60% slope meant now. i have a 8.5 “tube from insulation too insulation in mind, and around 10” too air tube too restrictor as a starting point.see how that works more of a WK air flow chart.
1 Like
Wow Kevin, that sounds pretty small. I think Bill Shiller has an 8 inch WK to run his lawn tractor of under 20 HP and his wood size if I remember right had to be about 1 inch cubes. On my 2.2L S-10 I am using 10 inch inside diameter ceramic blanket and 12 inches to restriction and I am hoping for 2 to 21/2 inch cube wood size.
1 Like
Thanks much for the reply Don Mans i was going too ask about the wood size problems with a smaller 8" tube, think i will go larger diameter then for the bigger chunks, i had some bridgeing on my big truck burn tube. And i was plugging. With the long v10 tube length in my old carb chevy. I was counting a solid grait sitting on the ledge before the restictor.so i could make longer if i lowering the grate. I am trying too crunch it all down too 49 too 50" and in the center between the frame rails down too the drive shaft clearences and would have 85% of a barrel of wood distance.or install half hopper for around town,trying too keep simple and lighter this time hopefully, easyer said then done.Good luck on your new ride results.
1 Like
Trying too stay bussy welding since i caint compete as a internet wizard. I will not post all the picks as each motor needs cetain size burn tube and air syle. And that will be best too get from the Wayne Keith Book HWWT.PLUS probbly100 good build ideas. I am useing a wood heater coverter that will need at least a valve too devert hot air once temp gets steady too high.This is a test unit for the ceramic burn tube and a hopper heated gasifier results.
4 Likes
Getting more done with ceramic tube gasifier src="/uploads/default/original/3X/f/1/f19084759b7feb55e34338542175b357cae169d9.jpg" width=“500” height=“500”>
I cut all 8 of the ss air tubes from 2 old chevy truck mirrors. Burn tube is about 16 gauge hot water heater metal.
5 Likes
Looking good! Will the nozzles protrude deaper in the heart thain a standard wk?
1 Like
I think paul M did ok that way or i thought he said all he changed was add a blanket. Then i think he went and changed too lighter burn tube latter. this one is set for about 1/2"past the blanket, then i was thinking on putting some tin sheilds under the air tubes too see how they last or toast some tar,Allso se if the sheilds effect the blanket from the heat. Lots of experimenting too go with ceramic tube. Think i will Try it with some sheilds and go from there.Latter i may try a balkiny on top of air tube as Jo was thinking, tilted toward the tubes like a drip drain.Thanks for looking.
2 Likes