Every steel has heat discoloration and all the clutches look about the same. I believe this is the reverse pack from a diagram picture I found online but not certain it is the only problem I have found so far
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Hello Jakob, the automatic transmission works by applying the pressure of the control oil to the hydraulic cylinder, which compresses the lamellae of a certain gear. This pressure is approx. 10 bar (can be more, depending on the gearbox). If you look at the path through which this steering oil flows to the assembly of a particular gear, you can find that there are many possibilities for leakage, the high probability of failure is a leakage of steering oil pressure. Outside, somewhere in the gearbox housing, there are measuring points where the oil pressure for each gear can be measured, if the tightness is good, the pressures are the same, but if the pressure is lower for a certain gear, there is overheating and wear of the plates, well, by changing these plates will not fix the problem.
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Thanks tone.
I talked to Steve Unruh also and he said the same thing. I ordered a Mopar rebuild kit so next week I’ll try to overhaul it and hopefully that will fix it. The transmission only has 83,000 miles on it so hopefully no hard parts are worn too bad. I visually inspected everything I had apart and didn’t see any problems with the hard parts. But I don’t have much experience with automatics.
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One big big detail with newer Chrysler/MOPAR transmissions. Do not use any other type of fluid, use the MOPAR spec fluid, as long as it explicitly says the ATF+4 or whatever generation fluid you need. I ruined a 2003 Jeep Liberty’s transmission or at least exacerbated the problem by adding a quart of the cheap stuff because I noticed it was low. Left me with just 1st gear and reverse. It’s not like the 90s and older transmissions that can run off of just about any kind of ATF. I don’t know why the 2000s and newer stuff is so sensitive, even Ford and Chevy transmissions can use each other’s stuff.
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according to this…
2 common issues for that.
- In the Compounder the low drum snap ring groove breaks, do not keep driving the vehicle because the parts that break off cause metal to move throughout the transmission.
- In the Compounder the low drum Teflon sealing rings rotate causing the grooves they ride in to widen. In both cases the low drum needs to be replaced with the newer updated model.
https://www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/transmission-issues-no-reverse.157881/
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Good find SeanO.
At the tail end of the conversations string, is a pdf link to a total transmission rebuild article.
Have’ta get used to transmissions without dipsticks. Search out the shops evolved specific to each types ways and procedures for fluid level checking. Sometimes Hot fluid. Sometimes Cold fluids.
S.U.
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I was actually surprised, I thought for sure it would have said a solenoid or control module issue.
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Hey guys thanks for all the help. I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit for the transmission. I bought a Mopar set off of eBay. After I tore into it more I found a broken hub. It was one of the pieces that came in my kit so that was great. I went ahead and rebuilt the transmission. Either I messed up the front seal on the transmission when installing it or it was defective. I ended up having to pull the transmission out a second time and replace the front seal. I reinstalled and it is all working great now. I found a guy with a good series of videos on YouTube that I watched. He went through step by step with this transmission. It was very useful.
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Glad you got it up and running again. I knew you could get it done.
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Can you post a link to youtube, very interested in this, the boy has a car that does not drive.
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Nice looking stuff!!!
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Nice red cedar! Oil finish?
Rindert
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No just outdoor Polly.
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Do any of you have any experience with pipe benders I need to build a pipe hand rall on a fancy house and they want a continuous curve to follow the retaining walls. It is going to be continuous curve but not consistent.
Any suggestions or ideas?
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What size pipe?
Be careful with ring rollers, it’s easy to let the pipe spin a little as it bends, and you’ll end up with a spiral instead of a flat curve. But if it’s not huge pipe that’s the way to go. I would make a cardboard template of the exact curve you want, and use a ring roller to work it into shape.
https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736.html
Bigger or stiffer pipe will need a hydraulic press more like this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-62669.html
You could try tack welding a single fin on one side, to prevent spiraling and help you keep it straight. I haven’t done that before, but I intend to next time I need a long curve.
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