With a little brute force and ignorance I was able to get the arm off of the gearbox. This will give me a chance to clean up the splines and grease it up before reattaching it with a cutter wheel. I plan on cutting the arm off, but will trim it down into a circle.
I do like how Chris S set his chunker up and because this appears to be the same gearbox, I plan on making mine similar to his with his permission.
After placing this back on the arm, it appears that it flexed back to be too tight. This means I need to tack or completely weld the the cutter on this while it is on the shaft. The cutter’s back plate will keep it from being pushed too far towards the gearbox. The bolt nearest the cutter will be worthless after it’s welded together.
Kevin, there’s an additional gear sprocket on the opposite side of the crank arm that powers the the extra movements of the baler. My plan is to go to a nearby snowmobile salvage yard and pick up a couple of track assemblies for a conveyor. That of course is a long term goal.
I’ve been real worried about being able to produce fuel, now those worries are relieved.
to consider. Instead of welding the cutter to the arm, On my baler chunker, I used brake rotors. On one, I used just the hub, cutting off the rotor itself and welding in lug studs.That part I welded to the arm and cutting off the excess arm. I used the other rotor as the backing plate for the cutter. ( my cutter is 12" well casing ). So if I ever damage the cutter, I can remove 5 lugnuts and remove the cutter, leaving the arm in place with the backing plate. It takes as long to replace the cutter as it does to change a tire.
It just so happens, my wifes mustang has rotors I could hammer in grooved studs in the front, and has holes that center the rotors perfectly on the rear back to back. I haven’t chunked anything on it yet because the carb needs rebuilding but it seems plenty strong. Also it allows you to shim between the 2 rotors to fine tune the accuracy of the cutter if necessary.
it will be interesting to see how well cast holds up to the forces applied I know the take heat but I break them quite often with a couple hits (b f h) just removeing them.
it should be pushing in on the shaft, or it seems like it would be better that way. not sure how waynes chunker is set up,pushing or pulling on shaft while choping the wood, just checking ahead,What size are them heavy pullys.THANKS
I had to load these pictures to my Google+ account and then back to my desktop for sizing parameters.
I finally have been able to get my garage warm enough with this cheap wood stove made in Taiwan in the 70’s. Somebody painted the damn thing thinking they would get more money for it when they sold it thinking it was an antique. So the first day had had it hot, I had to run it with the garage doors open.
I went to Home Depot for grade 8 bolts and the two people there looked at me like I was crazy. “What are grade 8 bolts?” The manager asked. The hardware representative hasn’t heard of them either. I have to say I was completely surprised. 15 minutes later they found some bolts but only went up to 1/2". I bought these for the sake of forward progress and will change them out later. Next time I will go to Menards.
