That seems like an elegant solution. It wouldnt hold up to breaking granite, but I suspect it would be more than enough strength for charcoal. You could even shore it up a little bit by welding on a cap.
:This jaw method seems like a slow way to get the job done. That might be necessary for rocks because the crushing action is powerful but I would not want to stand there all day to crush a barrel of charcoal. I think rotary action is much faster. Just my two one hundredths of a dollar.
A wheel with a rod offset on it, then through a fixed pivot point, then attached to the moving part would work as well. It has far more moving parts. The only real advantage it has over the simpler clever design is it is more easily adjustable.
An alternative might be to use an orbital sander and vibrate it.
I suspect it isn’t the brittleness as much as the stickyness. When rocks break they normally don’t adhere to anything or itself.
I realize this is an extreme example. This was wet char that was run through a meat grinder. It stuck together and formed balls/lumps all by itself. It stuck to the galvanized chute, and to the plastic bucket. It didn’t seem to stick to the cheap stainless steel the pan, Maybe SS Vs would work or a non-stick type of coating on mild steel.
Maybe. It may or may not have other advantages like it might be easier to get the feed rate right so you can walk away from it, or kick up less dust, or fewer fines.
Yes, that’s what I’m talking about. It would move the grate that is angled so that the grate goes up and down at the angle of it’s position. I was thinking of using an 8" channel for the grate. If I make this, it would be crude metal on metal with the contact of the pipe and the 8" channel. I feel if I can get the priciples down first, I can make a better one later.
@don_mannes, I think you’re right regarding the speed of the cylindar grinder. If I were going to drive on charcoal, this would be the avenue I take. I hope to have time to make one of these also.
I love those. They don’t work very well if you don’t keep the shafts properly aligned. I learned that lesson after I took apart my mom’s when I was like 3 and didn’t get them aligned properly trying to put it back together.
it would actually work if you don’t have any brands, or you need to make it so it can flex when it hits something hard it can pass through.
Hey Carl, you nailed the design (looking down on it from above) This was pivoted at the bottom. The charcoal got stuck between the bars and did not pass through. Let me look around for pictures.
I like the idea of angle iron welded onto a plate and being pressed against a plain, flat steel plate. The obtuse angles may make this design work with charcoal.
Gary in PA
Yeah, I was sort of thinking the same thing, with a single set of teeth on the moveable jaw. I think there might be an interesting design lurking here. I am not so sure what kind of throughput is going to be possible, but the design I am imagining (5.5" wide by maybe 4" long throat with a depth of 6-8") could certainly be made bigger. the only real constraint will be how much torque you could apply with a “Schiller Oscillator” before the tube section tears free from the shaft. I am going to try and build one next week, and will keep you all posted.
Yes Al and Kevin, Argos reenergized me for making a charcoal gasifier.
I stopped at Menards before I got home and bought enough to make 3 charcoal gasifiers. My plan is to make this style first and then with a nozzle with a water jacket like Gary G made.
I’ve had these pressure tanks laying around for a couple of years now, I may as well put them to use.
Tomorrow I have a farmers market so I won’t have any time to work on this. Hopefully Wednesday or Thursday.
Thats a relative question. Depends on what you look for. If you plan to put an aditional sack filter after it, its not too small at all. It will extract a bit of dust, it will cool the gas conciderably and it will let enaugh dust trugh to form a nice porous chrust on the sack filter.