I have another thought (can you tell that I’m excited by your progress?). If you don’t need dual fuel, remove the carburetor for better gas flow. Close your spark plug gap by c20% (.025 instead of .032) and keep a clean replacement spark plug ready. If this engine has external points, like my Onan generator, you can adjust the points gap while running to get maximum speed.
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Al,
I think the gas is fairly cool because it didn’t melt the plastic shop vac hose.
Bruce
Thanks for the tip about the stainless steel scouring pads. I might actually need stainless steel wool, because I beat all the charcoal so it would pass a 1/4" mesh. There’s a lot of dust in it. this was because of something Koen said a long time ago about smaller size making a smaller, hotter reaction zone. But maybe too small. And I washed it before I ground it, thinking it would keep some of the dust down, and remove dirt and ash. Maybe now its biochar so I’ll just spread it on the grass. 
Thanks for the tips about the spark gap, and removing the carburetor. But if I can I want to keep the capability of running the generator, therefor wanting to keep the governor intact so its hard to replace the carburetor. And would also be nice to be able to still use gasoline. It uses magneto ignition.
Thanks,
Rindert
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You didnt screen the dust out? Small is good but dust is not. It can allso plug the entire gasifier.
My bet is your Cyclone was adequate but it filled up fast. Screen the char and put a aditional filter and you good to go. I am a fan of sack filters. Super easy and preety much 100% efficient. It allso has a side benefit if you use felt. It will clog up with tar in case you make any and save your engine.
Looking good thugh!
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Charcoal between 3/4"and 1/4" will run well. Perhaps Koen would say that between 1/2" and 1/8" will work better. I believe there is consensus that anything below 1/8" is considered unacceptable. The reactor needs to breathe, so fuel must be classified to eliminate pieces too big AND too small.
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It runs, but I only get about 1/4 of the 3000 watts the generator is rated for. I put in large charcoal. It doesn’t seem to make much dust anymore. I made a different filter and took the cyclone off. What you see are four socks covering a pipe with holes in it. The pipe is open at the bottom. The filter bucket collects a little water. I still feel that there is too much flow resistance. I’ll empty the column tomorrow and see whats in there.
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I added a water drip and increased power to about 40% of what the generator is rated for. Does anyone know how to change the ignition timing on these old magneto engines?
Rindert
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You can use an offset flywheel key. That will advance your timing a few degrees, which would help. I found this site for B&S Raptor (5hp flathead) keys. You might have to make / modify to fit your engine, but you get the idea. 
keep in mind that your engine’s timing might be different, I have not actually tried this. I just know that a sheared flywheel key makes for a non-running engine!
https://out2win.com/catalog/raptorfly.html
[edit] older small engines have breaker points which can be adjusted. You may want to connect a continuity meter (battery and buzzer or flashlight bulb) to see where the points open and close, to see what your changes are relative to top dead center…
“edit” #2: thinkng about it, you might have to do both flywheel key and breaker points to make it run right. 
If I remember right, the spark happens when the points open.
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Gary and I both did some load testing at last years Argos event, We both were only able to achieve 30 to 40 percent of the generators ratings. We both had similar 400 cc engines I had the 9000 Harbor Freight model. But realistic continuous rating is around 6000 to 6500 watts. I was only able get 2400 watts consistently with 3000 to 3500 peak. I think Gary’s set up was around the same. My machine was experimental but this about what the refined production systems get. So going charcoal now 
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I seem to be able to get a solid 1200 watts out of the 3000 (rated) brush generator. Want to get a better metering valve. I about put out the fire at one point. 
So maybe I should just be happy with my 40 percent. I had the notion that this old flat head type machine would do a little better, just because the combustion chamber shape would seem to be less favorable to high flame speed gasoline than to chargas.
I suppose there are people out there building arduino and microchip based ecus for these things?
Rindert
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Are you being funny?? lol
I did a tutorial on the electronic fuel mixer. Its really pretty straight forward.
Bill build it for his system here
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Is there some reason why shop vac filters would not be good for these charcoal gasifiers?
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Ha. Finaly I can report from my own experience. They suck to hard and to much.
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Joep, l think you misunderstood the question. Not shopvacs, but shopvac filters.
My guess is those filters may have to much drag. You must take in to account quarter a inch of dust on the filter allso!
But, if you stack one on a nother or have several in paralell, absolutley it wuld work.
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They are way to expensive!! 
For my 1 dollar garage sale shopvac it cost 15-20 for brand new filters. lol
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sorry, to trigger happy
. And missed that one
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While we are on the filter topic, I just ordered some Coarse Perlite, which is a white puffed porous mineral used for potting plants. Thanks to Troy Martz for this one.
I plan on using it in a 1/2 gallon jar so I can observe the condition of this bright white medium. A pipe through the lid to the bottom for inlet and a hole in the side of jar near the top for outlet.
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Hey Bruce, Just curious, but what are you looking for while using perlite as a filter medium? The stuff is expanded volcanic glass so I’d be concerned about any of this getting sucked out of the filter and into the engine.
Gary in PA
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