Excellent, excellent video AbnerV.
You show through your viewing window the internal evolving steps! With processing sounds.
The breaking-glass finished char sound as the best finishing proof.
And All, his descriptions scrips are in both Spanish and English.
Watch this one!
Steve Unruh
What do you do with the char after you take it out of the oven? I made a video on my youtube channel a while back but it locked up of two minutes so after I guided my homesteading friends through it I deleted it. It showed me filling a five gallon bucket with the fines from my fuel making char. To that I added a gallon of urine, a cup of epsom salts for magnesium and sulphur, a cup of powdered milk for calcium and to free up the magnesium, both diluted in a half quart of water. A gallon of wood ash and a quart of worm casting tea. I mixed all that up with a electric drill with a paint mixing paddle on it and let it sit for a couple of days. The liquid is all absorbed by the char and comes out granular. This creates a full NPK fertilizer with additional minerals. This is done to be self sufficient. The same could be done with regular fertilizers, bone meal and gypsum but the worm casting tea is the secret ultimate ingredient. I put as much of this into my growing soil as I can make. How do you process yours?
Really glad to hear from you. Been thinking about, and praying for all you there.
I do about the same then, I add 25% of this “inoculated char” to my compost and I use about a cup of this for each cofee plant (we planted 650 new ones this year) and in the green house for the vegetables.
I´m following a experimet thats been going for about 5 years; I planted an ornamental pant for my wife with a chunk of inoculated char and I only add water. It´s been “safe and sound” for 5 years, I only add about cup of water once every 7 to 10 days.
Thank you Al, we still survive.
Many are praying for you.
Rindert
[quote=“ramosedmundo, post:113, topic:2364”]
Hi everybody:
I want to say that this devise did not worked as I expected. The one that it did, and that I am using regularly is the one described in the topic: " Hi-Temp Carbonizer for bio-waste".
B.R.
Eddy Ramos
Hi Eveybody;
CHARCOLIZED OLIVE PITS DISASTER:
I want to warn everybody about the great mistake of trying to use carbonized olive pits as fuel for chargas engines. Here in Argentina, and I expected that it may be the same all arround the wold, after the olives are harvested they are treated with salt water for several day in order to make olives edible. Then, in order to get pitless olive the pits are removed. When the salty olives pits are charcolized, the salt is not removed from the pits. But when these salty charcolized olive pits are gasified with the addition of water (H2O), the salt (NaCl) is conveted in CAUSTIC SODA, CHLORINE and HYDROCHLORIC ACID that will travell witht the chargas all thru the system to the engine… All this sustances are highly corrosive that will detroy everything in the system and the engine.
My advise is do not use “salty” charcolized olive pits as fuel for chargas engines.
Big, big mistake.
B.R.
Eddy Ramos (Argentina).
Eddy I hope your engine was safe from that. Thank you for the warning.
Hello EddyR.
The same problem using beach found salty ocean/sea drift wood in gasifiers and metal stoves.
Very corrosive.
Steve unruh
Okay, I am not going to put salty pistachio shells in there. 
Rindert
Hi Cody. It took so long to find out what was corroding so badly ALL my sistem, included my stailess steel pipes!! The good news is that thank’s a chemical análisis I discover the origin of such corrosión just before I redone my entire system. The other good thing is that the chargas system is much more simple and easy to rebuilt that a woodgas system.
B.R.
Eddy Ramos ( Argentina).
That picture reminds me of a Congolese charcoal kiln made from bricks.
I would want to weld a plate over them. But Dr. Larry would just say, “where can we get some of that Alabama red clay? you know, that really sticky stuff, we’ll plug holes with it.”
You and your countrymen have been in our prayers much for a long time now. I still have not heard from most of my friends there. I do not think they have made it through.
Gracias amigo por la advertencia.
Thank you very much for posting the warning.
We have a silo full of wood stored in unwashed pool salt bags. Luke uses the salt for his deer hide business. I was concerned about corrosion of steel from the salt, but after hearing this, we will not use it in the gasifiers.
Made another batch of charcoal. This will be my fourth time I did it using the 50 gallon water heater tank. About 30 gallons yield. I have learned to stop the burn as soon as I stop seeing red and purple flames coming out of the afterburner. I put the outer sheet metal from the water heater around it to hold the heat and keep tar from condensing on the inside. This makes the burn go faster too. I had very little uncooked wood afterward, about one double handful. I mixed about 3 gallons of peach pits in with the wood. They all seemed to become good charcoal.
Rindert
It sounds like you have got it going now where you can make good quality charcoal in bulk batches. How are you storing it now for later use Carl?
Bob
I just store it in sand bags.
I am thinking I should make some sort of charcoal fueled foundry furnace. Does anyone have experience?
Rindert
I’ve melted aluminum cans down with a charcoal furnace. Never tried any other metal though. Just either build a refractory or some other insulated chamber with an air nozzle. I managed to use a hairdryer for my bellows.
That’s cool. I did something similar with a furnace that normally uses propane or natural gas. It DID melt aluminum, but I had to feed charcoal into it constantly. I want to load up a hopper with fuel and go. Thinking I should make one of @Joni’s little gasifiers, and use it to run my generator too.
Rindert
I built my furnace pretty tall, and used a tall crucible so I just piled charcoal up to the mouth of the crucible. Was anough to keep melting cans until it was full. Air nozzle was 1/2" NPT pipe nipple and i had air flow in a tangent because I figured it made the heat swirl around the crucible.
Here’s my new bottom lit charcoal producer. It’s a facsimile of @Matt system. Need to make the grate a little bit tighter so I can use branches as well as boards. Using pretty long pieces just to try it out but I shouldn’t be using pieces longer than 18" or so.
