On other units, there’s usually a clean out under the hearth for ashes. If you get a chance at the new clean out, would you mind taking a few pictures for me? I think you’ve come up with a novel approach to the air intake issue.
Dan,
We ran our test unit for ~8 hours, and we noticed such a small amount of ash (less than a tablespoon) in the ash grate, so we are doing away with it completely. The cyclone filter is catching most of the ash (a few tablespoons).
We were running at a pretty good rate… Approximately 2.0L/sec of air or 4.23 SCFM…
Also, our media filter looks like new 
Troy
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If really you split water steam you have enough oxygen inside and you don’t need extra air for combustion. Think about …
Marco,
I do think we split water, but I don’t know how much. After we get our gas analyzed, I’ll know if it was H2, HNO3, or a combination… We plan on insulating the core so the temps go up even more, which will driv in more steam for cooling / balancing.
Some of the old books show that with enough steam, you displace the ambient air, and thus reduce nitrogen intake.
I’ll keep experimenting and see what happens.
Troy
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- There is no such thing as HNO3 in gasyfying and if you could, then we would become rich…
- referring to the pages in the book (page 3 to be correct), CO slow pale blue, feebly luminous flame, H2 fast pale blue almost non-luminous flame.
The mix of 2 flame speeds makes it vigorous
Keep your airspeed higher then your flame-speed and install some “blowback check valve”
The flame speed is characteristic for your mixture containing a high level of H2
Combusting H2 will produce water vapor at the flame-tops playing with the surrounding air.
If the surrounding air is cool, you will clearly see the steam appear at the condensation point
The air needed for combustion also plays a role in the appearance.
You almost have a jet-engine going on there, maybe time to deliver some fuel at NASA ?
you are a chemical teacher? you are humble? From your replies I understand that you don’t are nothing of these. The thread is open if you don’t want reply make an private forum.
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Wow, Dan, look at all the sparks flying up from your project!!! You’ve got a fantastic start, don’t be dismayed by the high sounding B.S.!!!
You’re driving down the road, which is more than many can say!!!
What John said.
This is another vehicle I eagerly follow the progress on. Charcoal being the byproduct of a wood gasifier, makes a build like this desirable.
Apparently I missed quite the discussion here… all I see are dots. Some folks got carried away, methinks. Sigh… Apologies to Dan Hartman for cluttering your thread.
Marco, first warning. We don’t take kindly to argumentative people here, whether right or wrong. More of this behavior will get you suspended. Please review the terms of service here: http://driveonwood.com/terms
Koen I’m getting complaints on you too… http://driveonwood.com/forum/1726 I missed what you posted so I can’t comment either way. Just cool off everybody, and let’s get back to practical woodgassing /charcoal gassing.
Keep up the good work.
Hi guys,
Today I got the gasifier emptied out and got some good pictures of the firebrick hearth. It’s amazingly intact for the heat I put to it. The first picture shows a top view of the gasifier with (a very dirty) fiberglass-insulation filter. Second, a view of the “firebrick box” stuck to the inside of the barrel. This is just glued into place with silicone RTV, most of which has deteriorated. The third shot shows both the inside and outside of the barrel, how the intake fitting lines up with the hearth.
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