Thanks Tom.
I ordered from Rock Auto and got 17.5mm (just over 3/8 ") and see that my spark plugs that are in the car are as long as your spark plugs.
I have welded the gears, nothing complicated at all.
Have you changed the ignition on your car?
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I think the axle comes from a Toyota Rav 4.
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Jan, I think I’ve watched your chunking videos at least 10 times now. Very satisfying sound and feeling.
Time to add an electrical option on that chunker, right? To save on diesel and the tractor. Like Wayne said, 5 HP should be more than enough.
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Jan; Yes I did set my distributor up to be changed from the cab. Don’t ask me how many degrees I move it. Probably move #1 to the #6 position. (?) TomC
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Does it make a big difference to move the ignition?
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Good morning Jan
( does it make a big difference to advance the timing )
A very simple question to be so complicated to try answer .
I have had several older motors with distributor and points that did not make a lot of difference on the advance . However on v-8 doges in the 90s it is like night and day . With no advance on my dakota I would expect to reach about 95 klh , with timing advance I can get up to around 135 klh for short distances . ( no shortage of power but don’t want to overheat the gasifier )
There are several threads on this subject but most are in the premium section . Here is one I found in the general discussion .
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Ok Thanks Wayne.
I do not know if it is possible to change the ignition on my car, but it sounds to you like it is worth a try.
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Ha, thank you thank you. First time I’ve ever seen a US citizen adapting to international units 
I’m still waiting for us to have a conversation in Swedish
If you have several small wires coming out of your distributor you can most likely turn it and advance the timing. If not, the only way is to try relocate the crank sensor (unless you run a V8 )
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Hi Tom C, what year model do you have on your S10a?
It seems that the computer in my car sets the ignition regardless of how I turn the distributor.
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Jan; I have a '94 Silverado V6. TomC
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Does moving the ignition point do much to the power of your car?
I think my car is weak on the slopes.
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Jan; I suggest you just hook it up and try it. It is a simple thing to do. I can’t tell you if the change in power will be enough to satisfy you on the slopes. I have been playing with the V6 with an Imbert style gasifier for over 10 years; making changes after each test drive. I have yet to find anyone thing that makes a difference, that satisfies me. TomC
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Hmm, it was not so easy to access the screw to the distributor, and when I got it loose, the distributor was locked with a pipe pin.
When I broke the fork that was locked with a pipe stick, I could move the distributor about 5-8 mm before it stopped towards the top, I hope it does some good.
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It was a new record today, the car has gotten worse, and it has felt like something was tight.
I cleaned the radiator and the filter first, no difference, pulled together the plastic barrel again.
I checked the cyclone, there is usually a little dust in it, today it was about 15 liters, it was really full under the grate too, do I have to clean things sometimes?
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I was waiting for this matter to clear up some…but…
Are you asking if cleanouts are ever needed? I’ve seen you make a few. That can’t be it.
How often? How much?
The answer is, it depends. Frequent shutdowns and slow driving produce more char than you will consume. Running hard for several hoppers of wood, you will end up with mostly dust.
Since I don’t have a grate, I collect a mix of char and dust in the cyclone. Using a grate I would rake out under it as soon as char starts to appear in the cyclone.
I do nothing to the gasifier it self. Maybe knock down a few glued chunks from the funnel at lightup, that’s it.
With an avarage consumption of one hopper a day I flush the cooler every other week or so. More cooling area would allow for longer intervals. The huge hayfilter is not very picky. A few buckets of water every other month.
Plastic pipes downstream the hayfilter I flush spring and fall.
Hope this helps.
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Interesting! Just flush the hay, make sure the water runs out and finished? And once a year hay change? Gona use this principle! Thanks
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I ran almost 5 years, 12000 miles on the same coarse hay, with a couple of 5 gallon flushes at 1000 mile intervals.
I just emptied the filter and the hay could have continued.
My filter barrel is a 30 gallon glass lined water tank.
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Yes, that’s all I do.
I agree with @mggibb. There’s really nothing wrong with the old hay when I change it out in the spring. I just do it anyway when I have the chance. Gives me an opportunity to dismantel the entire barrel and the connecting plastic pipes and wash them out as well. It’s usually my first springtime cold bath in the river
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I cleaned everything yesterday and shook a little on the grate I still had the coal in the fire pipe (I thought).
Thought the car would go well today, but did not go at all, had to go on gas to Hörken (my home village).
Looked at the generator and saw that I had firewood below the nozzles, I had also forgotten to close the tap to the condensate tank.
I cleaned the fire pipe and under the grate and tried again, now it worked again
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Thanks a lot. Any idea about the pressure drop acros the filter?
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