Yes, it would probably not be wrong to live in Alabama, there might be a little less stupidity there.
3 Likes
Iâm so glad my county doesnât test for emissions. After 30 years the car doesnât even need safety inspections anymore just the property tax payment.
I hope you find the source of your codes.
Yes, if I do not get this well, I can connect the check engine light on the oil pressure.
I have changed the oil and filter, spark plugs and cables, also saw that it was tight in the crankcase ventilation, a little soot.
Wondering if the spark plugs have ever been replaced.
But you can not ask for so much for SEK 3000 (300 dollars)
(cost of the car)
Iâm going to order a ball joint and some other stuff from Rock Auto, so I can fix it,
2 Likes
Yes. The article indicates there are to-buy laptop computer reading programs. And free downloads programs.
Follow the blue imbedded links.
I really liked GM and Fords later 80âs and early 90âs OBD1 systems.
Chrysler/Dodges sucked.
Some of the Japanese were OK. Some not. European OBD1 always sucked to try and work with.
Their expectations seemed to be the Technicians should be very well willing to do probed point to point checking all over the vehicle. The vehicle owner/user should âLeave it to the Dealership professional.â
Regards
Steve Unruh
2 Likes
Hey JanA,
Order a quality ignition distributor cap and TWO distributor rotors, too. One for an always in glove-box spare.
Your system can and will make up to 50-60,000 volts to fire old/worn spark plugs.
That excessive voltage will burn directly down from the rotor spring electrode thru the plastic grounding out to the distributor shaft. No sparking power to any spark plug then.
S.U.
4 Likes
Ok, I have both a new rotor and distributor cover, but did not get the right cable between the ignition coil and distributor cover.
Thanks again Steve.
1 Like
What month of 95? Gm did have a few rigs that were OBD2 pre 96, my 95 metro and 95 S10 both late in the year were considered the 96 model year with OBD2. And a cheapy scanner like my Innova from Matco will read codes on some of the crossover era systems that were OBD1 with OBD2 diagnostic port. Lots of funky systems in 94-96. Makes me yearn that my snapon brick didnât get stolen, that thing could pull codes and do all sorts of stuff on any system
3 Likes
Agreed. Chrysler/Dodge even had some trade-off OBD1 into 1997 production year too.
Their trade-off being jumping ahead early on the 1995 Neons traded for one more year of other models. One being the 1st gen Dakotaâs.
And many of the made-in-Japan/made-in-Germany vehicles retained their original system data ports under the hood far into the 2000âs. The underdash sold-into-USA OBDII just minimal compliance, overlaid systems.
And I still do have my Snap-On 2500 âbrickâ system with all of the OBD1 plugs. Last updated in 2003? 05? And bought added their early CAN-bus translator. Works clear into ~2010 vehicles.
Used to be a very expensive game to play.
Became cheap to read and play after the 2nd and 3rd generation OBDIIâs communications change protocols in ~2003-05.
The true price of âcheapâ??
Since ~2010-2013/15 virtually OBDIII (without the scary name) highway overpass commanded âyou-tellâ systems.
My wife once she weakened and caved from non-interconnected ear-bud bluetoothing her Iphone handsfree: and vehicle connecting her (powered by Microsoft labeled) 2014 Ford Edge is now part of the âMatrixâ. Her vehicle will now show and tell to anyone capable of commanding it from a distance. Blind her SIX antennas? No more radio/CD. And No more climate control!! She refused to buy the lower-line many buttons Ford Edges to then have a separated manual climate control.
For freedom & independence you gottaâ love the old stuff.
S.U.
5 Likes
I have tested with 2 different scanners, but only get an error when it starts to read.
How do I see which month the car is made?
Edit. Do you think this works, quite expensive with shipping.
Hmm, this morning I was going to try the car after changing the spark plugs and cables, now I thought it must go well.
Comes out in the garage and the car almost does not start, thought there was a lot came from the crankcase valve that was tight yesterday, so I drove it hot, did not get any better, yes ha, now I have broken someting again.
Started checking cables and spark plugs again, 3 spark plugs I checked I had pressed together, itâs just a little tricky to change spark plugs on this car, wondering how the designers thought.
3 Likes
Many possibilities now.
Yes you will have to recheck everything that you did do.
Mixed sparkplug wires. At the spark plugs or on the distributor cap.
Cable routing creating a crossfire possibility.
Spark plugs with the electrodes dirt and grease clogged installing. One or more with the electrodes tapped shut falling out of the socket installing. Paper, or aluminum foil scrap on the spark plug remaining from holding the spark plug from falling out of socket.
Need to air blow BEFORE removing the spark plug. Air blow immediacy AFTER old spark plug removal. Air blow a third time AFTER new spark plug installed; but Before wire installing. Working down blind; only by feel, is the problem.
An engine that does not like the changed brand or style of spark plug the supplier sold you as, âBetterâ, âthe Bestâ. Bosch surfaced gapped the worst for this in my experiences.
And here is my worst GM, I-touched-it; now it cranks-will-not-start; or starts and runs like shit; ass-kicker experiences JanA.
That distributor cap to coil wire!!!
If you touch it after itâs been in service. . . it must be renewed.
It must carry ALL of the multiplied sparks always. Not just one cylinders worth.
The high tension coil wires break down six times as fast as the individual spark plug wires. You remove and reinstall and then it craps out.
The Actron scanner you linked to would read.
BUT only after now that youâve proved you do have a mixed transitional system: you must individually pin insert into the dash plug as the article I put up said.
AND then lie to the scanner and tell it you are scanning a 1993 GM vehicle.
And the suppled Actron GM ALDL, and OBDII cable will probably be unitized molded not allowing disassembly.
S.U.
3 Likes
You have to apologize for my bad English, I found the error, I had put the electrodes together on a spark plug.
5 Likes
Hi Steve.
What do you think about switching my obd2 reader, it reads J1850 on pin 2 (brown wire) down to the right, it has no wire to pin 9, which is apparently the data pin on my car. Move brown thread to pin 9 instead.
First image standard obd2
Second picture as my car.
Third picture my obd reader.
1 Like
It is worth a try.
It will either work, or not.
I do not think the car computer or scanner will be damaged is wrong.
Is you under hood factory label present? The VECI label. Vehicle Equipment Controls Information. As the first picture text says, ONLY OBDII will say OBDII.
Earlier systems labels will NOT say OBD1. Just an abbreviation letters list the installed anti-pollution systems. EGR, Cat, PCV, excreta.
S.U.
1 Like
Is this what you mean?
I think we found a reader for the car, we could at least read when the throttle was moving, so I hope it works.
1 Like
Yes. Yes.
NOT an OBDII reading out system. Look at other later vehicles labels. OBDII, always says OBDII.
MPFI = Multiport Fuel Injection versus earlier two injector throttle body systems
EGR = feed back active Exhaust Gas Recycling system installed
TWC = Two Way Catalytic converter system. A Reduction bed for Nox. An Oxidization bed for HCâs
Glad to hear you are getting something reading out.
You still may need a before OBDII capable scanner head to have it make sense. Get actual live data readings too.
Some later before OBDII systems you could twitch code read with a volt/ohm meter analog needle for their counted simple two digit trouble codes.
S.U.
2 Likes
Yes pre OBD2 codes many were flash 2 digit, but bear in mind many of this systems had no memory, so start engine, then fault codes sets in the confuser. If engine is shut down and or key power lost the code is auto erased, so live data diagnostics is how to pull codes. Usually first code set is indicator of main problems, often followed by âghostâ codes. Ghost codes are basically once the computer sees a fault, it starts trying to self check every system and when the first fault occurs itâs sets up failures for other systems. Domino effect of computer doesnât see what it wants to see to keep engine happy, and usually ghost codes are not root causes of problems, they can be in some respects disregarded if a major malfunction is occurring. Fix major fault first ( think of what motor needs to run, 4 things that are critical fuel air spark compression) then retest for more codes. Often a major fault is fixed and all other codes disappear. Many people trying to self diagnose a problem will go down the rabbit hole of " oh my gosh, so many codes so many problems! Where do I start!" Easily overwhelmed if your not familiar with the systems inside and out. Just friendly advise 
3 Likes
I inspected the car this morning again, now I got a high CO value both at idle and at 2500rpm, have changed the front oxygen sensor, oil, filter, spark plugs and cables. Anyone understand whatâs wrong?
1 Like
Hello JanA,
I could only say for sure if I had the vehicle hands on with a true four gas exhaust analyzer.
CO is not enough oxygen to fully convert to CO2.
Four gas analyzer is telling how much exhaust gas free-available oxygen is left over.
Very indirectly what they are telling you with their LAMBA numbers.
Why not is that dead range centered at 1.0??
HCâs OK tells you you do not have an Ignition misfiring problem.
ONLY exhaust remaining oxygen could tell if you have a combustion re-combination (full burning) problem.
Full stream OBDII live data analisi would tell is the problem is one or more individual cyclinders or an overall system problem.
Anyhow here are two âeasyâ things you can do.
Before the official test cycle drive the vehicle hard for at least 30-45 minutes to get it all HOT. This helps tremendously.
And your liquid cooling system MUST be fully functionable and and working perfectly.
A true 195F thermostat. With the system actual coolant PRESSURIZED, and full flowing cycling at 220F to 230F.
S.U.
1 Like
Ok.
HC is also quite high (142) CO at idle 750rpm = 0.6, CO 2500 rpm = 0.6 and Lambda 1.05.
Am a little surprised, before before I changed the first oxygen sensor the co 2500 was 0.2.
Do you think Catalytic Converter can be sooty?
I have about 30 minutes drive to the inspection, and the water temperature was around 189F