It’s a bit strange with this filter, I’ve only driven about 500-600km (300-370miles), so it’s not something to trust yet, but when I went home from Ludvika the negative pressure above the filter was 12mbar, the next day it was negative pressure down to 6mbar, all at 2000rpm. I was sure the filter wasn’t working, and checked the intake, but it was clean. Can the speed of the gas affect the soot so that it suddenly falls off the cloth, (have changed from 62 mm (2.4") to 73 mm (2.8") between unit and filter) like on Göran’s, or is it the cloth depends on? Haven’t gone that far yet, so it might change.
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Do any of you know anything about catalytic converters? I have one from Biltema that goes to 4 liters, and my engine is 4.3 liters, so I thought about changing it. I wrote to them and asked which one would fit, they recommended one that went to 4.2 liters and one that went to 6.2 liters, which of these would clean the best? Köp universal katalysator här hos oss - Hansen Racing
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Jan, I don’t know why you would want to replace your cat. But since the inspection testing is done at an idle and/or 2500rpm with no load, I wild guess would be a smaller one would keep the heat up better. Tell them since you drive mostly on wood your truck is already greener than most vehicles.
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Last year the co halt worked at idle, but was very hard to get at 2500, so I’m wondering if the cat is too small.
With the prices that inspection costs, it would be good if I could get it working right away.
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JanA. your problem is not unique.
Older, high hours vehicles, have more oil blow-by in their exhausts. The carbons goo in these will coat deactivate the CAT’s internal active surfaces.
Cold engine, with cold woodgas is going to do this too.
The “Solution”??
Get the new CAT . . . but only install it using three-eared flat flanges and gaskets.
Put the shelf stored CAT on for your inspections. Useing a straight through pipe all of the other times.
Ha! Ha! Muddy road up before the inspection. Or ends seal the CAT and hang store it under vehicle to get the in-use look.
Scoff-law Steve Unruh
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I’ve had 2 cats, one on the shelf and one on the car, but it hasn’t worked anyway.
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Yeah. I know well.
Watch this from 2:15 thru 3:25.
Read him on CC, maybe even translated. He talks very fast.
Same-same your situation JanA.
Your engine is old. Your engine now burns some oil showing up in the exhaust. A working Cat will burn this up as a fuel. The oil burnt residue quickly coating the CAT’s active elements.
The late 1960’s evolving vehicle emissions standards were for very important reasons.
We needed to do better. We could do better. We did do better.
All pursuits have points of diminishing returns on efforts. The stupid ignore this.
But . . . by the late 80’s and early 90’s decades, this never ending Emissions standards Club then got used by the manufacturers; the labor unions; and the financing banks to take vehicles off of the roads.
Forced churning of the average fleet age. This made them all money.
Then in the 2000’s the always tightening engine emissions standards are used by the anti-humanist loo-loo futurists “We know better for you” to force their way of thinking onto ALL.
Be forced join their new-age Journey-into-the-Future religion cult.
Well I say cheat any way that you can.
Because reasonableness, and logic never works with the soul-sold, bought-in.
Keeping old, still useable vehicles on the roads working is a Coyote howl out of, “I’m still here. I’m still Free!”
S.U.
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Do you have any suggestions on what I should seal between the lid of the filter and the edge the lid rests on?
I have red silicone with copper paste on it, but the paste runs away from the heat.
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Maybe a graphite paste could be less temperature sensitive?
Also Jan where do you have your startup blower now that you have the hot filter added? Do you have a 3 way valve like Goran?
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Yes, I’ll try to get hold of that, they had it on the doors back in the day.
I have the fan first as a suction fan, then as a pressure fan (melts otherwise).
The alternator on the opel only runs counterclockwise, could that be correct? The belt broke now when we got it going.
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Hi Jan, your filter looks great!
Doesn’t only red silicone work? I use it without lube on both filters and fuel lids. Let it dry a skin, then put in place with (glad-pack) between, when set, away with the plastic.
For your Opel, i think you got a “free-wheel” one direction pulley, common on diesels, if that pulley seizes, it starts sounding terrible, or belt broke.
You may recognize the pulley, there is no nut, and the pulley got “splines” on the inside.
The axle got torx, allen key (insex) or that “fine tooth torx i never remember the name”
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When I first came into contact with those on a vw (too many years ago that I would like to admit) they were called ’intolv’ since they were two overlayed ’insex’ or allen keys but now I believe they are called xzn instead (self-explainatory, I know 
)
Don’t take my word for it being the same thing though, haven’t done any research.
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I believe your right Johan, i used to call them intolv, or “vw-bolts”, xzn i’ve heard also, and there is some third name on them…
Edit: some also call them “Opel-bolts”
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Triple-square’s? That what I’ve ran into on VW’s. A DIN spec I believe.
S.U.
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I have tested with just silicone, but soot comes up around the edge when the filter starts to get tight.
Would probably need more pressure on the lid if it were to work.
Yes, I read yesterday about the freewheel, which means the alternator is stuck, have to remove it and see what the problem is.
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Ok, so your free-wheel works but alternator is stuck. Could be a reason for starter don’t turn the engine.
Alternators often get stuck on vehicles standing, sometimes it helps to tap them with a small hammer (rust on the rotor), if bearings stuck it’s better to get a used one.
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I’m a little jealous of you who don’t get any carbon or soot under the unit.
I get about 20 liters (5.3 gallons) under the unit and in the cyclone when I drive 400 kilometers (250miles).
Would the car run better if I reduced the amount flowing through, or am I just going to have problems with constipation?
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@Woodrunner
Göran, the dimensions that SMP uses for diesel engines, shouldn’t they be on the lower sice for a petrol engine?
I’m thinking of building a new unit and don’t want it to be too big, so I won’t be able to drive slowly in the forest.
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Hi Jan, i believe the dimensions for diesel engines are to small, with taking the ignition oil in acount.
I need to find my SMP book and refresh my memory.
This is for the S10 right? If you think about building a SMP unit, maybe build it after book dimensioning, just take everything on the smaller side.
Improved heat insulation, better heat recycling (primary air) and a good condensate collecting hopper would help much.
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Yes, I was thinking of using the s10’s generator for a saab v4 engine, it fits that engine quite well.
SMP, have (I think) only tested the larger generators on diesel ignition, so if I make one with these values it should fit, I think.
Does preheating actually have any greater significance for the gas quality if the generator is built correctly?
I haven’t noticed any difference when I’ve tried it, nor do I notice any difference when it’s 30 degrees hot, or 30 degrees cold.
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