Did anyone ever try propane out of a 20lb tank to get it going until wood or charcoal gas takes over? Don’t need a fuel pump for propane.
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Wouldn’t I need a regulator to use propane safely? Not sure where to find one to put on the throttle body.
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off an old propane discarded grill would probably work and they are free
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I’m just paranoid of excess gas building up in the intake or hose. I think Tone has a system he made if I could find it.
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I could buy forklift parts, but to have it run worth a hoot I’ll need to buy a regulator/vaporizer and the Mixer. If I cheap out it’ll still run 200 bucks for those parts alone.
Then I’d need gas line, a new propane tank, and plumb it all up. The Mixer is vacuum controlled so it only lets out propane when the engine sucks on the system, that way you’re not wasting any. Vaporizer is heated by engine coolant to prevent freezing the liquid propane.
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You don’t have mass airflow sensor on that car. What your pointing to is intake air temp sensor. The 2.2 is still speed density ( map sensor) with the 2.2. and the breather you can just get a very small k&n type breather and take out of intake stream to alleviate any soot from going in valve cover.
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Soot won’t go into the valve cover from there, the valve cover is being pulled by vacuum.
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Hey Cody,
I tryed to look up the in-line against the inner l.h. frame rail EFI fuel pumps that Ford late 80’s-1995 used on their pickups and E-Vans.
Ha! Ha! Surprisingly hard to Net find for sale, something I can walk out and put my hands onto.
These systems whether gang-group injected or later true SEFI delivered a regulated ~60 PSI with V-8 volumes of gasoline fuel. Aught to work for you.
Realize true injector lifted valving can be run way pressure delivery down.
NOT true of the GM spider systems that must pressure pulse open an end of delivery line spray valve. Part of why I think fellows get such poor results hybrid’ing their GM pickups. Especially the V-6’s. Those systems did more to make Dodge pickup men than Marketing.
Your GM heat soaking coil pacs jammed between the engine and the fire wall sold a lot of folks over to Honda’s and Subarus coming out of the 90’s. Ha! Then they could experience buried PCV valves; trapped alternators; and Two blowing head gaskets.
Ain’t no perfect in this world. Just a lot of Make-Do’s what I need/want from it.
Marry the one who can cook.
Pretty is, as pretty does.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Cody it will draw in some soot because where your pointing is the fresh air intake of the the pcv system. That crankcase will be under a negative pressure or vacuum and that’s where air enters valve cover…the vacuum source is on opposite side of valve cover by power steering resivour …so it will draw some soot across valve train unless you isolate that air intake. Look up a vacuum diagram and flow chart if your not following what I’m saying. It won’t be alot of soot as it’s a relatively low CFM of air moving through there but will definatley pull soot at lower than say 50 % throttle
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Well you can’t just delete a PCV system, they’re in there for a reason.
I wouldn’t be plumbing wood gas that far away from the throttle body to begin with, that’s just asking for an intake event. The valve cover breather and air intake temperature sensor will be in front of the fresh air mixture butterfly on the clean side.
I can’t do much about the PCV that’s on the other end of the valve cover, since that’s part of the intake manifold/injection assembly behind the throttle body but I haven’t gotten one dirty yet.
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Oh you poor dear boy, emissions related items were made to be removed by people like me. I have ripped off, destroyed removed and blocked off every vehicle I have ever driven. Your Mazda was a terrible one to start with all the vacuum controls and egr and other regulatable garbage that kills power 
all joking aside, it changes nothing of performance to remove a pcv system, I’m not kidding when I say I don’t own a vehicle that has a functioning pcv system. Positive crank case BREATHER? yes please, aka slobber tube. Shove that excess crap back through a air intake and throttlebody? No thank you, if there is oil in my intake that means big problems. A catch can does just fine for me. I JUST changed the air filter in the yard truck, 2002 7.3 powerchoke diesel 4000 miles on it. SOAKED in oil, just begging for a runaway meltdown fireball of a insurance claim. Thanks for locating the breather on TOP of the air filter ford…
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I beg to differ, PCV is to prevent sludging your engine and seals blowing out. The PCV system wasn’t put into engines for just emissions reasons.
I don’t have a problem with catch can systems but I can’t stand my engines being covered in baked oil. The only reason I have just a filter on my valve cover breather in the Mazda is because I haven’t put in a barb for the carb hat yet. I kept the PCV in, still attached to the intake manifold.
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Remote mount cures the baked oil problem, but around here being next to salt water all the time I don’t mind my rigs getting a good coating of oil, rust preventative measure! I don’t often disagree with anything tony says and he makes good points on that video I have watched it before. that being said i have never had a seal failure due to removing a pcv valve, and woodgas and is the only thing that ever caused me to sludge a motor
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Not saying to remove pcv system…that part you pointed at is just the fresh air intake for pcv hence why it’s after air filter… You can literally just put a mini ka&n type breather filter on it… pcv has it’s benefit…it puts vacuum inside crankcase which boils moisture out and ring seal is positively influenced with negative crankcase pressure…my race engine get a high volume vacuum pump for the crankcase just for those reasons because pcv doesn’t work at wide open throttle… So yea if your wood gas enters after that part you will indeed be fine. Wasn’t trying to rattle you just point out the possible issue
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I understand, don’t worry about it.
I’m just paranoid of this engine, I’ve heard great and terrible things. Some say they’re unkillable etc etc, and others say “oh yeah they lock up all the time I had a buddy that this happened twice with two different cars”. I don’t want to modify too much with the engine and throw something out of whack, I’m already tossing a gaseous fuel down it’s gullet.
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Lack of lubercating oil will lock it up fast. Wood gas is good for it. But be cauious is the besy way to go if you are not sure about something.
Bob
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This car has about 180,000 miles, allegedly majority highway. Technically a 1 owner car, lady that owned it got old and couldn’t drive, son never drove it and my friend never drove it. No body rot or serious damage besides the hood and front bumper but it looks like it could have been done in transportation by a trailer hitch. I’m going to be adding MMO in the crank case to get any sludge that’s in there and make sure all the bearings are lubricated.
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I too have learned to love PCV systems on gasoline engines as long as they are truly full flowing Positive ventilating. You do need allowed in filter fresh air cross flowing to do that.
The imports, especially the Japanese mostly were never actually positively flowing. Just Tee connected to suck any positive crankcase pressures build up.
Again just on gasoline the high flow North American type can really foul you up at idle with either clogging, hose collapsing or hose off false air leaking.
My woodgas engine experiences are all with stationary.
We just remove the crankcase venting to outside of the intake and air cleaner boxes to NOT be over-pulled by always having to suck the gasifer system.
Another advantage with no oil vapors from the crankcase into the intake soots cake and cling much less.
Of course the oils then do blacken quicker. Lack of crankcase venting? Woodgas soot past the rings?
Doesn’t matter.
Woodgasing one of the sacrifices must be made is extended oil changes IMHO.
Just use the less expensive mineral or blended oils and change out frequently.
I like to actually see thru my oil. Get itchy when I cannot. Get it out. Get it OUT! Ha! Just my bug-a-boo.
Ahmm. Cody with your pristine engine bay habits . . . maybe long metal draft tube out the crankcase below and behind the firewall like some used to do.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Since Norman showed his oil issues I’ve stopped using synthetic in all my vehicles. I think High Mileage oil is semi synthetic, but I change every 3000 miles as if it were conventional. I also like to not have Texas Tea coming out of my drain on changing day.
If I have to separate the vent I’ll probably buy a catch can kit, at least then I can save that oil for my drill bits . Most are big enough that they’re ready to empty on a 3-5,000 mile interval.
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