Finally buying a new cylinder. Decided to buy one before my employee discount is gone for good. 200 dollars.
Also the auxiliary fuel pump I was using died. Not surprised it was just a cheap thing from Amazon. I have a new in tank pump so I just need to drop the tank and change it out.
You are going to have a new parts car that will be good for may years of DOW.
Bob
I certainly hope so.
I’d like to get this car DOW(charcoal) but the better liquid fuel economy will have to do for now.
Good too here you got your cavaleer nearing drivable, i picked up a cavaleer few weeks ago, needs fixing,Good little mid size gas mizers though, caint wait too get mine fixed either. I put one of them notors in a s10 truck, just had to change the front timing covers, due too different pulleys and so on layout.Same everthing else mostly. I might work on the trunk area on my cavaleer this time, and add a tail gate so i can fit a washer or dryer in trunk area, not sure yet through i dont like trunk cars unusefull space.
Gonna try to drop the tank and replace the pump. The inline pump I was using was a very temporary fix. Hopefully the new tank pump will last me at least a few years. Apparently one way to save on a fuel pump is don’t let the tank go below 1/4 level.
The rubber hose for the fuel filler neck has a tear in it.
Will a radiator hose work? Or will the gasoline ruin the rubber?
Hi Cody, i don’t know how the gas is at your side of the pond, but here it haven’t work for me, one try, the radiator hose got extremely hard after a year, it just broke and fell apart, one another try on another car it dissolved under a mont, when filling up at a gas station, i found gas running all over the ground, with some slimy parts of the hose in it. Probably the ethanol did it in both cases…ethanol is hard on rubber, silicone hoses may work, some cheaper types just swell extremely.
I have used radiator hose the heavy duty stuff for big rigs several times to remake filler necks here, have a piece on my dodge right now
I double checked where the tear was, it’s on the barb for the tank.
This hose for some reason had a 2" section of the next size up over it. I just snugged that bit over the tear. The hose is supple everywhere else.
Also, tank is dropped and I drained the tank. Wow at all the rust. Wiped the tank as best I could.
I think with a new fuel filter and pump this car will run awful rich for a while.
Everything is in. I wish I could have bought a Delco Remy pump but I didn’t have the money.
If this thing goes bad again I’m putting in a fuel cell.
Good news, I can hear the pump activating when I turn the ignition switch. Battery isn’t charged enough to attempt to start the car but I’m sure without the new lock cylinder it won’t turn over. I’ve got the battery on the trickle charger for now.
Today was my last day at the dealership. Was hoping to get the ignition lock cylinder today but it hasn’t arrived yet. My dad still works there so they will give the part to him when it arrives.
This anti-theft is very annoying because the car will not only start but run for about 1 second before it dies.
I’m really wondering if there’s a way to hack this thing to not require it. I only know one method and it requires having a good ignition lock cylinder.
@Matt you’ve mentioned ways to bypass some of the things in 90s cars. I’m wondering what’s being killed by the anti-theft if it’s the spark, or the fuel. It uses two coils which each go to two cylinders.
Apparently it shuts the injectors off, not the fuel pump. That’s very interesting.
In my 95 Jeep I had to ground the bypass lock on the passinger side door. It showed me on you tube how to do it. It happens when you disconnected the battery for some reason. This car does not use a coded key like my 2003 dodge ram. Check you tube to see if someone has done it for your car.
Bob
I’m going to see if I can key cycle it with the current cylinder in place. The problem is the pins came out and I think the magnet isn’t close enough to the sensor. Either way it’s just 3 times of letting it sit 10 mins with the ignition set to Run.
If I can get it out of theft mode, and get the car to run for minimum 5 mins I might be able to do the scramble bypass permanently by cutting the yellow wire.
It would be interesting to see if it would run on woodgas with the theft system activated.
You cant bypass the antitheft system without a TechII
I guess I’ll just wait for the new cylinder and cut the information wire after running the car for 10 mins.
I don’t understand how people manage to race these cars, derby or otherwise.
Just popular enough for derby racing but not popular enough to get a wiped computer.
You might research these. VATS Anti-theft Delete Service: 98-00 Chevy Express GMC Savana Security Light | eBay
My part finally arrived, had to pay Freight on top of the price because NAPA lied and said it was local. That’s fine it was still cheaper than anywhere else.
Edit: The cavalier is alive again! Moved it out of my paved parking spot.
Still planning out the bed for the Cavalier. I have some square tube to make at least the frame of it. I’m thinking of making the bed about 3 feet long, and the center portion I will use some slightly thicker tubing to support any weight.
I’m going to weld in a section of angle iron to give me a spot to bolt the bed down at the base, I can use the upper area to bolt it down over there.
I got the top flange welded to the hearth core. Now I need to figure out the air entrance. I may take a page from the WK book and build a WK style mini heat exchanger. That’s one reason why I went for removable nozzles tips is so I can remove them to bore them out.
