Well, choke cable for the throttle was a bust.
Also I had to take the carburetor off to grind up some clearances. While taking it off I noticed a chip in part of the carburetor. I think this is where it has been sucking air.
Pretty frustrated right now, I’m just glad I still have a spare QJet.
I think I’ll just build a plenum. I have a big throttle body I can use.
Just JB-weld that chip, and go for it 
And on your throttle plate shaft end actuate use a half-circle. Look at ALL late model TB’s for examples. Guided cable/short chain these will pull smoother and at a constant speed.
The trick ones are off-centered to have a variable motion. Closing can be an opposed pull spring.
S.U.
I’ve been driving the 76 some just to keep the lifters pumped up, and let the MMO work it’s magic.
Ever since I got this truck I noticed a weird gallop in the exhaust note. I knew the exhaust was FUBAR but didn’t realize it was this bad.
At some point the Y Pipe had rusted at the end where it branches to the intermediate pipe, so someone cut a fishmouth where the two banks join and just shoved a resonator in there. I cut the coat hanger wire pushing it into the pipe and saw they didn’t even cut a relief for the passenger bank.
Basically this means my Driver’s side bank was getting free flow and my Passenger side bank was blocked most of the way. Definitely was throwing off my fuel air mixture and likely running the passenger side too rich.
The rest of the pipe is in good shape so I’m going to just weld on an extension to get a muffler or another resonator hooked on. I have a thing about straight piped exhausts, I don’t like getting on the throttle and pissing people off so I interpret it as lost horsepower. Hurts the low end power to not have any exhaust siphoning anyways, or as some call it “back pressure”. Exhaust siphoning is what makes a “4 to 2 to 1” header give better grunt than a “4 into 1” header, the 4-1 gives better top end because of free flow.
Pic’s please Cody
And explain: FUBAR, i think i’ve read it somewhere before?
FUBAR
Are you sure you want to know?
FU is sexually molested to insanity.
B is beyond-belief.
A is all.
R is reason.
Read the my sentences beginning letters downwards, and then know you have desended into a manmade hell.
S.U.
You could also say “Fouled* Up Beyond All Recognition”, same for SNAFU or “Situation Normal, All Fouled* Up” but with less polite words.
As far as I know, they’re old US Military acronyms.
Thanks for the explanation, i had a feeling i was about bad words…
Americans love our cuss words. Some used to such an extent they don’t pack the same punch they did with former generations.
For example “Crapped out” is actually not a reference to using the bathroom, but is actually a reference to the gambling game Craps. The term “Crapper” in reference to the toilet is actually due to Doughboys visiting England in WWI seeing Thomas Crapper Patent flush toilets.
The other F word for fornicate used to be seen as something only a Sailor or GI would say, but now you see it in movies and some television.
Last picture is where part of the exhaust rotted off.
That looks a lot like the exoust on my dakota i picked up just before used truck prices got hijacked.I think mine had aluminum tape raped around it by the end of the crossover- crossover looks good and solid yet , probbley had ss in the crossover pipe.one thing i like about the chevy trucks,including the s10 chevys- they have a thicker more HD frame on them-good 350 conversion truck- i might put a 360 dodge in a 2000 s10 once i get time- all i need is a tranny and some computor wireing too keep the port fuel injection working.probbley have too get whole wire harness and computor- and just keep the wires needed for motor and tranny–probbley too much work time tied up in it by then.
Is there a way to tell if a Y Pipe uses a gasket or if it’s one of the non-gasket type fittings?
Haven’t had time to take the pipe off but I figured I’d just replace it since the end was fish mouthed. It’s rusted anyways.
Here’s some crappy pics of it in the truck. First side is Driver’s and second is Passenger bank.
If I squint at it, it almost looks like the pipes are flared for a non-gasket connection.
With how bad the corrosion is I might replace the manifolds too. I’m just not prepared for that headache.
Praying I can get those 6 studs out of the manifolds for the Y pipe.
I would start soaking them now if you are planning on working on it in say 6 months.
Honestly, I was always told especially with exhaust, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. And to patch it and keep going because everything is rusted together and never comes apart cleanly. and possibly because a short section of pipe and a couple of u-clamps is a lot faster fix. 
I think what you are supposed to have is this:
On the drivers side picture, the right side looks like the spring is there and the left side it is gone.
That would be a stack of washers
Is this where I get to state the obvious and say ‘it isn’t original’?
The manifolds are definitely OEM if they’re replacements, but according to Rock Auto there’s two different fitments of collectors. One uses the spring and gasket and the other uses a flared fitting.
It looks like they definitely lost their original nuts because the OG nuts were longer.
Rock Auto has a decent return policy so if I ordered the wrong one, I can return it and get the other style.
I’d like to just put in a section on this, but someone decided to pie cut out a fishmouth RIGHT where the two banks connect. I’d have to take it off to repair it anyways.
the bottom, passengers side, almost looks like they hacked it together. Like it broke off, so they went up a size to go over it (it is thick almost like a plumbing pipe reducer fitting), then it connects to a flared piece of pipe on the left. which has the hole in it. The mid 70s is when I actually heard about someone doing that exact same thing but on an older vehicle because the gasket cost twice as much as the pipe fitting.
On the top one/drivers side, the brackets to me don’t appear to be the same size and the holes don’t quite line up right. like the bottom is slightly wider, but that could be the angle of the picture as well.
If the y-side is still okay, and you can’t get the bolts out. They make flange repair kits so you can just cut the flanges off and slide on a new flange.
The manifold is probably original, and that is going to take some patience and quite a few prayer sessions to get off without snapping a bolt. My luck (or lack of skill) I would snap all of them, you have better skill hopefully you have better luck too.
From what little I understand about this particular model, the passenger side flange uses longer bolts. You can see that middle section has reliefs cut out for the bolts. I had looked on eBay for a full set of bolts and it comes with two different sets of 3 studs, passenger side being longer.
Also I think it’s the bad camera angle, this was taken using my headlamp to guide me, and camera flash turned on. Upside down on the ground with both arms up can be disorienting.
This morning before driving to work I sprayed some pb blaster, I’ll try to remember to spray on it at least twice a day until my parts come in.
I also ordered a stud extractor to really bite down on it. I have a feeling the two nut method won’t work so good.
If I have to replace the headers, I’m getting tube headers.
I’ve never had any luck getting old studs out Cody. They almost always break off either even with the head or indented. I saw one tik tok where the guy heated the bolt and then hit it with canned compressed air to quickly cool it. Sound like it might work. I usually have to drill out the old stud as much as possible without hitting the threads. Of course when I was doing that kind of thing there wasn’t a thousand youtubes to watch first.
