I’ll try a few methods. First thing I’ll make sure it’s been saturated in PB Blaster to give me a fighting chance.
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You have to turn the can of compressed air upside down and it contains like some form of ether as a propellant that freezes it. (don’t breathe it) I tried it with the stuck water heater anode rod, and that didn’t work.
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It’s usually a refrigerant, R15### I forget exactly. It can replace old school Freon safely.
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I think it is R152a 1,1 diflouroethane 
I think ether would work as well but that is more then slightly flammable since that is starting fluid.
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Cody,
I thought I had saved info from a DOW thread dealing with rusty exhaust manifold bolts, but couldn’t find it. Then I searched on DOW and found it in the “Chevrolet s10 4.3” topic, beginning with post 1503 by you. Anyway, I have saved it again. Looks like info which might come in handy for me someday. Might be of some help to you.
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Passenger side bank, I’ve got 2 of the nuts off, and one stud came off with the nut.
Driver’s side bank, two of the nuts loosened and one stubborn nut. Resting my shoulder and warming back up, I’m working off the ground. Sun is shining on me, luckily.
Hope I can at least get the nuts off without a torch or power tool, I want to make sure I ordered the correct collector.
I can’t remember if this block is a 1976 or if it’s a 60s block.
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Good news, bad news.
Good news: the nuts are all off and it is in fact a flared connection so I ordered the correct pipes.
Bad news: I broke one of the studs, I’m waiting for an extraction tool to show up tomorrow.
Wildcard:
This emissions piece was still in the truck:
The butterfly was loose as all get out and cracked, so I just broke the butterfly out. I need this middle piece to seal up.
It’s meant to give controlled back pressure of exhaust gasses to warm up the intake plenum. This also may have been a source of my off cadence in the exhaust note.
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If I’m successful in that one extraction, I may attempt to get the other 5 old studs out. One came out quite easily already because the nut was frozen to the stud.
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If they still has threads on them, let them sit, its just self-torture to work on rusted studs/bolts 
Not good for the mental health, but can help expand ones vocabulary…(to the darker side)
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I wouldn’t call them threads, very scratchy and hard to get on and off.
One already came off semi easily so perhaps it won’t be so bad. Fingers crossed, knocking on wood with a blowtorch in the other hand.
I’ll heat, soak, and air hammer all of them to be safe.
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I wish I could give you more than one like for that one Goran 
GC
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On my 1976 Dodge motorhome on the passenger side exhaust manifold it has a butterfly type emissions control operating by a heat coil. I welded it open , they have been known to rust up particularly closed. I have deleted most of the emissions on the 440 engine, it runs a lot better with out that stuff.
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I went ahead and put the one new stud in, and it went in just fine. These Dorman studs come with a nut that’s twice as long, hopefully will be good for removing again if need be.
Everything will get a coat of copper antisieze.
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Heat, soak, air-hammer, repeat, is the best way, it’s true.
This is my favourite when it comes to rusty studs
In Sweden nicknamed: parrot-wrench or American engine-wrench (not an insult) if the teeths are sharp, and there is space enough they will come loose
Or just weld a nut on them.
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I ordered a piece that got good reviews, it has jaws like a drill that tighten down as you turn counter clockwise. If all else fails I’ll try welding a nut.
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If they broke flush, place a big, flat-washer whit a hole big as the stud, weld the stud with lots of amp’s in the hole, then weld on a big nut to the washer. This gives a stronger weld if using mig, which don’t penetrates as well down in a nut.
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I’ll bear that in mind, luckily there was about 9mm left of the stud sticking out.
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Just tried a parrot wrench, as I suspected I don’t have much room to rotate. Dad had one in the toolbox he left at the house.
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Boy am I sore! Got a good upper body workout wrenching that junk off the truck.
Extractor should be arriving today, and I should have enough daylight to get most if not all of them removed when I get home from work.
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Two of the two I tried removing snapped off flush. Guess my map has torch isn’t hot enough.
I shocked it and hammered before using the extractor and it still wouldn’t budge. I thought it was spinning the stud out but that was just shearing I guess. Maybe once I try the washer and nut trick it’ll have gotten hot enough to want to come out.
I really don’t want to remove these manifolds, and I didn’t want to weld underneath this truck but I have only two options now.
Either that or buy tube headers, but then the Y pipe I ordered is useless.
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