curious if it works with an engine, some say it maybe cause back pressure. Thinking a check valve
Great! Do you use some exta dry wood or does the bubbler do all the job of scrubbing the condensed water from the gas?
So, do you think this culd realisticly be sufficiant filtration for a engine?
Culd you put a white cloth on the gas pipe, let itrun for a few minutes and show us the resaults?
I have been thinking of scrubbers for some time but never realy got to them. Sorry for the questions 
1 Like
The scrubbing seems to pull out the condensate as im removing more water from the system than put in and with out, my wood shavings gets water logged and dirty . The wood is from my last job and not very dry at all, the guys throw it on the ground , in the mud and puddles âŚIâve been very leery saying much about the system as itâs still in a testing faze and donât want to direct anyone in the wrong direction. The only problems I could possibly see is back pressure or too much draw on the motor pulling the gas through the water, but thinking âŚa check valve would solve this. The reason I draw my gas down the middle is too try create some steam in the systemâŚwhen running it sounds more like a dish washer ( sloshing ) than a bubbling . It be neat to see whats going on inside. ( sorry writing bad )
Could you please explain what a check valve would do to reduce the resistance on the system drawing through the water? What am I missing?
1 Like
2 reasons and these only work in my mind. My writing is poor but will try explain 
1.) I need a condensate tank or / expansion tank anyways with a check valve would stabalize engine draw. ( 2 stage process)
2.) The liquid during operation is not still itâs sloshing around the walls , in the air. But on shutdown or / less draw the liquid settles and creates a back pressure on the system , about 8 inches water column. get what im saying ? sorry .
Wonât the check valve add spring force that the motor will have to overcome to draw the gas through the valve?
possibly. I was thinking a hinged soup can lid ( something light ).
If your woodchips are getting wet, you arenât getting enough cooling post-bubbler. IE your square tube cooler. You probably also want to see if you can catch condensate at the bottom of that or else water sits in that tube and will revaporize. IE the relative humidity right above a body of water is 100%.
What you have is essentially a bubbler with a condensing column (the water heater), but when your water starts to heat up in your condensor it starts to boil, and it doesnât really do a lot to get the water out because it is at a higher temp then the temp water vaporizes at or anything else that condenses below around 100C.
You have a couple of options to help get the water out. The first is to get your cooling loop ie squares tubes so they actually can cool down the water vapor. The second would be to circulate the hot water through a radiator system(hot water in the US is only supposed to be like 50-60C, you are a lot hotter and could scald.) . You might extend the column up and add fins. You might be able to circulate water in the bubbler part to keep that cooler as well.
1 Like
I have no issues with condensate ,the bubbler removes it all. But if ||I donât run the bubbler, My wood dust gets water logged and dirty⌠so, itâs doing its job and the best thing I like is I can control the temperature by simply adding removing water. The bottom has a 2" outlet that i can weld a deflector plate on ,âŚlotâs of different things too test with. If could get my hands on some catalysts lol
Iâm just copying what they do in the big refineryâs. Next stage will be having a cooling pond, or seperator tank, âŚskim off oils an re burn, re use water
Refineries technically use plate distillation which is similar but different since they are distilling out very fractions at different heights on the column. You donât really need that. The oils supposedly should separate themselves out from the water in layers if you let it sit for a couple of months.
You can get your hands on catalysts. the last time I looked they were rather expensive from places like Fisher scientific. The cheapest catalyst you can get is essentially red clay. Somewhere I posted a link to the article, but it was a canadian uni, I want to say in Ontario that did the study. It contains iron, aluminum and titanium and maybe nickel oxides.
1 Like
ur right. My bubblers upside down compare to screens/ caps where gas comes from bottom. did that cause in a moving vehicle i canât keep water level
1 Like
mounted inlet going to the air filter box on generator. We should almost have friendly bet if it works
3 Likes
I see you are using the check valve to create a path of lesser resistance .
1 Like
How about them flares !
5 Likes
Craig; Nice looking flare.TomC
Hi Craig , I have mounted my gas in take on the air filter box like you have a few times ,but have never managed to run it good enough maybe your air box is a much better seal than the ones I used , cant wait to see .
PS . unless that generator has an electric start , it might be easier for you to take off the pull start and spin it up with a cordless drill with a socket on a short extension bar to get the engine spinning nice and fast , makes starting so much easier .
Dave
4 Likes
Hi Craig,
Your flame colors look really good. If you go to the Small engine category and scroll down to âMy first small engine runâ comment 59, at 1m53s at the end of that clip I demonstrate exactly what Dave proposes. It works great.
Pepe
1 Like
Will this guy shut up ! about his bubbler ! âŚ
2 Likes
Who are you talking about?
2 Likes
about myslef lol⌠a sensational headline lol to gather attention to the video
1 Like