Just a thought, the addition of air in the cyclone mixer increases the volume of gas (± double). The speed increases and therefore the efficiency of the cyclone is improved.
Better gas purification,
Best gas air mixer
Better cooling
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Now we are onto something, yes all of the above 
Just the air / gas mixing is reason enough to add this system.
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High,Terry!
15.6.2017
Spiral mixing with sock reversing we have done by DJ and others.
Dj’s VOLVO has both!
The out flow tube to the left is going in the thick part over half ways to the right, toward the horizontal “gasoline-air” intake.
That makes the “sock reversing” when gas is comming from below and air is comming through the upper tube, both spiralling anti-clockwise around the inner, output tube to the left.
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Is anymore energy required to double the speed of the air going through the cyclone ?
The mixer of JD is a very beautiful piece, I had already seen it.
I also love your automixer very much. I hope to build one also one day
i take the job… 
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Hi, Thierry!
15.6.2017
Thank you! I hope Chris’ building descriptions and videos come handy.
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Is there anyone here with cyclone sizeing info for a 22 re toyota motor 2.4 - 4cylinder. Ruff gestomate or wag. I have space for a round tube 12"by 2.5’ long and have a 1and1/2 " pluming. No idea how too gestomate i might as well use standard media filter.
Kevin. Try this. I know it is a good site, I just don’t know if I have the address correct.
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/BuildCyclone.cfm
TomC
Hi Tom C that was a cold fuzen site, hopeing too find a ruff extomate off some simular sized all ready using cyclone, due too i am limited on the knowlege of all the air flow variances, i may have too just try one somwhat larger than MAX auti cyclone. And see if it works.Those pail cyclones sure was working good though a car engine has vast diferent air flow.thus variable efficencys is my concern. Thanks Tom C
Hi, Kevin
16.6.2017
A few days ago Stephen Sabbadess’ cyclone tables were “on the pages”.
Relocate them, and some help is available!
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Thanks Max i see the charts though not up too the scale of interpreting. I will have too experiment with sizing, yours looked about 8" around and 2 foot long before the clean out.? Any size comparison estomates on your 2.0 cyclone.? Thanks.
Kevin; Try this one
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/cyclone_plan.cfm
Up at the top go to PROJECTS— then go down the list to CYCLONE BUILDING INSTRUCTION — then to SIZING
TOMC
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I typed in some different formats of the web info and finally got his web site up, verry informitive website, on building cyclones. Thats a good site, Thanks Tom.C.
Hi, Kevin!
16.6.2017
One has to keep in mind, that these cyclones are designed for particle separation, and now the aim seems to be mixing cyclones!
Double volume flow compared to only gas.
That’s a different cathegory!
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Hi Kevin,
You need to figuire out what size pipe, tube diameter you plan to run for your system. This is really the determining factor of how big or small you can build. The smaller the body of the cyclone the higher internal velocities it will have making it most effective. Steffens chart is a simple way to size as your inlet and and outlet pipes “without” modification drive the diameter of the body. Say your are using 2" pipe, for instance; so you have 2" going and 2" going out. So your body diameter can only be 6" any smaller and your outlet pipe will interfere with the inlet pipe and it wont go together. On my systems I have standardized our 4" body filter with 2" port pipes. However we form the inlet pipe so the center pipe clears it. I use this on both small and large engine machines. For the final gas dryer series system I use 3" body filter with 1.5" ports built the same way; However, because this is more restricting I may go to 4" body filters with larger ports.
So you first need to figure out what you think is going to flow best out from the gasifier to your application and then build the cyclone using that same size porting with the body diameter that will work.
Thanks Matt i was thinking on useing 1-1/2" for inlet outlet and through the system pluming, So the cyclone after the heat exchanger from the HWWT Book, i am at 1-1/2" inlet & 1-1/2" outlet pipes. Should i go with 5" or 5-1\2" cyclone and see how well that works or should i stay at 6" cyclone.
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If you go that little extra it will give you some assurance that you can assemble it without interference issues. Performance wise I dont think there will be a whole lot of difference. As shown in the video she is using a bucket with vacuum tubes cobbled into it and its works quite amazing.
If it were me running a 2.2 ltr engine I would go with at least 2" the whole way and build a 6" diameter filter if you plan to use Steffens chart.
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I am using a 5 inch fire extinguisher housing for my cyclone with 2 inch inlet and outlets. I pounded the inlet with a big hammer to make it slightly oval so it would fit next to the outlet pipe.
I tested it with my shop vac picking up dust from my shop floor and in just a short while I had the canister 1/3rd full of fine dust, so I know it works.
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Thanks alot Matt Rider and Don Manns that is the info i can understand without a cheat sheet. Well no cheat sheets in my school day years either.I got too try some of them cyclone filter designs up by the air intake too. THANKS.
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