When you get the batteries them selves up to the 70 F it will take even longer for the 20 F temp to get the batteries below about 50 F and they will continually work better for you. You are from Minn. so I’m sure you know that putting a 100 watt light bulb under the hood near the batter in sub zero nights will give you a much better chance of the car starting in the morning. Every little bit of temperature added to a battery makes a big difference in the out put of the battery when you get down near freezing in the cells. TomC
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Tom, although I think your idea would work, I’m not sure running a 100W bulb would be cost effective and would have to run my generator more frequently.
I finished insulating yesterday, didn’t have time to poly it because we ran out of daylight at 4:30PM. I gathered up cinder blocks and stacked 2 rows, 2’ high. I need to look around for more block. I placed the blocks between the generator and the batteries. At 5PM I started the generator and ran it until 7PM. At 10PM I ran the generator again for another 2 hours. I notice a considerable amount of charging capacity. I woke up this morning and it was -6F and the generator shed temp was at 27F after 7 hours. That’s a huge difference from yesterday morning where there was only a 5 degree difference with the outdoor temp.
Now if I can heat up the concrete floor with the cooling system of the generator. I’m just not sure if a 2 hour run will be long enough to make a difference.
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Could you run your coolant into an insulated drum to store more of that waste heat? I know my boiler(200 gal) at 190 degrees will heat the home for a few hours after the fire is out. You have colder temps, but a smaller area to heat.
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I ran 80’ of PEX under the 5 1/2" of concrete floor. My goal is to circulate the coolant through the floor and use the floor as a heatsink.
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How does the diesel start in the lower temps Bill ?
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Prior to finishing the walls, I need to start the generator twice before it stayed running in sub-zero temps. Now with it insulated, it started up and stayed running with no problems. This weekend will be the real test as the temps will be -20F and colder. I will follow up.
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Is it a 1880 rpm unit or 3600? The thought of a cold engine firing and going up to full speed scares me. I hope you are able to store some heat before temps drop that low .If not I would put a block heater in it and warm it before firing with a smaller ,cheaper air cooled unit. Most engine wear occurs on cold start ups . This will increase engine life considerably.
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It a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel that runs at 1800 rpm. The diesel sold at the pump (Kwik Trip) is 50/50 mix right now. I was worried about gelling so I also bought an additive that guarantees against gelling. It must work because the generator has ran flawlessly in these colder temps. As I said, this weekend will be another test because we have had -20F yet this year.
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glad you got an 1800 rpm unit. What I am saying is it it will be in your best interest to warm the engine before starting it whenever possible . All of the large back up generators are kept at operating tem to avoid cold start ups at full speed and loads as they do when called for. Of course they have the grid to rely on for this. I would put a block heater in it and warm using your Ryobi for a half hour before firing it at least until you can keep your coolant temps up using your slab. your service life will be extended greatly if not started cold at temps below freezing.
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Good idea Jim, thanks. I’m pretty sure I ordered this with the cold weather package. I haven’t noticed it but then again, I didn’t look either. It’s -4 F with a lot of wind blowing, that puts us at -24 wind chill, so when I get up some courage, I will look into it.
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A light bulb won’t do much of anything for real cold, the heat will rise and waft away. The efficiency will be very low. Us sub arctic dwellers would consider this…
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/our_products/battery-blankets.asp
Regards,
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When I mentioned the light bulb, I was not suggesting that it was something Bill should try. I was trying to make the point that a battery efficiency goes way down in cold weather and you don’t have to have your car in a heated garage to get it to start in the morning. Just adding some heat to the battery, like placing a 100 watt bulb near it during the night. It will keep it warm enough to start the car the next morning in sub-zero temp with cold oil, water, gas, and everything else. TomC
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I use a 60 watt bulb in my above ground well pit, 6" in the sand 2" styrol insulated, i live in michigan and that keeps well tank from freezing.I suround the inside with bags of glass insulate allso too reduce the space too heat.
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In my old days here without elec to run a block warmer for my trusty 68 VW, I would fill a rectangular metal wash pan with coals from the stove and set it under the oil pan for a while. Works well, never missed a day’s work. Learned this as a kid from my dad, the guide, at hunting camp. Thanks, dad!
Pepe
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The last wall is almost done. Here is the door that swings in. This door gives me direct access to my back shipping container.
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I see you have your single thickness stove pipe chimney in place. I bet you are going to have to waste a little heat up the chimney in order to maintain a draft when it is really cold. What kind of wood stove will it hook up to? Do you plan to heat it just to take the edge off the cold or enough to take your coat off? Lookin good!
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Yes Don it is a single walled stove pipe I had laying around. I have a top for it somewhere under the snow. I just need to dig for it. I also have a free wood stove I believe from the 70’s. There isn’t anything efficient about it. Just having the walls and roof up without wind makes it a lot easier to work outside. I have a rebate check from Menard’s I’m going to use to get some insulation. I should have enough for the ceiling and hopefully for the walls too. I’m in a way better situation than last year this time.
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Once lived in northern Wis. Had about the same stove pipe setup. Any creasote would condense inside the single wall out in cold. Not a big deal but had to clean the pipes several times every winter. Am in southern Co. now and its 54* at 9:00 PM but will have a high of 20* Sat. Gess why I’m not in Wisconsin.
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I have a similar setup on my cabin, the single wall pipe condenses all the tar and moisture, which just drips out the clean out tee, no dangerous accumulations yet. I’ve been burning dry birch and poplar, probably best if a vigorous fire is maintained, and inspect the chimney now and then. People have gotten away with worse in the past over lifetimes, including single wall pipe through canvas tents, so what I am saying is that the human element is essential. You are definitely living the dream, rather than begging technicians to provide you with everything. 
Regards,
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Thanks guys, that makes sense. I will be sure and keep an eye on it.
I did make sure it exited the wall away from the studs. I have plenty of Rock Wool to insulate between the inner and outer wall around the stove pipe.
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