I would go with a simple canvas duck cloth filter. Worked great in my Mazda when I ran the updraft. After I added that filter I didn’t have any soot on my carburetor.
The problem with tubing here is the trees are spread out in 80 acres. I have about 3-5 miles of trails just to get to the trees. So bags are the only way to go. Fortunately we can use the same trails for the 800 birch trees we’re going to tap when we’re done with maple. The other problem is, we’re off grid up here. We use a lot electricity the way it is for pumps and lights during syrup season. I like our setup the way it is. It’s good to be in the woods.
Cyclones are great but not that great. I would not run that any more without a good solid type of media filter. That dust will destroy that engine in a heart beat.
I see you guys running small engines on charcoal, how come no timeing addjustment needed, it would seem that with a water drip, makeing all that hydrogen, would through out the timeing?. OR did you slot the coil bolt holes too change timeing.
Kevin, we mostly just accept the power loss.
The problem is jacking up the timing with coil shifting easily can make the hand pull starting a kick back “hurts and breaks”.
Yes. Yes. It is possible to make up a manual coil mounting slider mechanism. Very precise hand working. And what you make up will only fit the exact engine family.
The same variable ignition timing can be done electronically. Again costs. And who will understand it except that one brainiac developer, eh? APL’s purpose made mini-processor controller.
Small engines depending on when manufactured vary a lot internally.
Most four strokes now have a make-easy cranking speed exhaust valve lifting system. This makes cranking easier. But . . . woodgased this can make for problems.
Woodgas soots thickens the oil fairly quickly. The thickened oil cold can keep this compression release valve lifter system from engaging. I separated a collar bone learning this. Or the thickened oil can prevent the valve lifter mechanism from restoring compression.
This thickened oil can even stick down low oil sensor float when the engine is shifted and moved.
Then you wonder why a previously running good engine has no spark!
Small engines best features is they are simple and the most See-Do direct useable.
Shave boost the compression ratio. Use the non-ethanol premium marine gasoline then when you must.
Go one grade thinner on your engine oil.
Still want more power? Simply upsize the engine.
Do Easyway solutions. Leave making miniaturized ships-in-bottles artworks to artists.
Steve Unruh
Most you can practically and realistically do is use an advance key, or use a flywheel with the advance built in. Small engines have pretty low advance stock. The really hot box stock engine I have has a 20 degree flywheel advance, it’s made for go kart racing. 20lb valve springs and no governor made to spin 9000 RPM before it floats.
Edit: even with 20 degrees of advance I can start it on 87 octane so I could go even further if I ran exclusively charcoal gas in it. Hondas and clones have an automatic built in exhaust relief iirc. Or maybe compression is just super low who knows.
Cody the compressions on the late models is high-ist. They want to run hotter. This helps them pass emissions HC testing.
The remaining new flatheads run highest compression and super lean HOT to just pass HC emissions at the expense of power.
Try this. Put in higher octane gasoline and does the engine run cooler, with more power?
Many will now.
Put in the expensive wide range premium synthetic oil. 0W-40, 5W-50. And DO change it out as soon as it colors, and or smells changes.
Then get 3X, 4X the “Emissions Life Rating” engine useable life.
S.U.
S.U.
Yes they have presure release mechanisms built into the cam shafts.
That’s what I thought. I’m pretty sure this has a standard camshaft, it doesn’t sound lopey like a Cheater Cam. I should crack open the donor block and see what went wrong with it. When I bought the engine it came with his old block that said “started smoking really bad and didn’t want to run right”, best guess is bad/stuck rings or bore worn out from not enough oil changes. Paid 100 bucks and that was worth it for the flywheel alone. Billet aluminum.
Okay I purchased inline filters. I would think these two being parallel may be better for longer run times? Either way, the last picture is after running for 15-20 minutes. I wrapped the filters with a wool/cotton blend.
Is this okay for a final filter?
I like the fact I can see in the filter to see if it needs attention.
For an engine that small, maybe? Since you’re running it through multiple filters with progressive sizes it might work.
Hi bill what size motor you powering with charco.
I have 4 holes ¼" in diameter about ¾" apart from each other. I want more speed or power. Should I make the holes bigger? Add another hole? It’s a fluted nozzle.
Maybe up them to 5/16", you already have them pretty close together. In the mazda I ran 5 holes of 1/2", and that’s a 1998cc engine.
How far apart should they be?
How long is the flute itself? I’m guessing you have it evenly spaced relative to the length.
I don’t think the distance will be that much of a concern, since the main goal of the nozzle is to spread the burn out for richer gas and more even use of fuel.
My problem I think with mine was I had my furthest jets too close to the barrel wall and ended up with hot spots. Didn’t affect much I just didn’t like it getting hot enough to burn the paint.
Its important to leave some mass between nozzles for the heat to be able to disperse from between the nozzles. So the spacing also depends on the pipe dimensions.
Its not nessesery a bigger nozzle will give you better power, velocity goes down… but you never know
How much space do you recommend between the holes?
Bill
Those clear ones are much nicer than the black one we had on there to begin with. Is the second one a cloth filter?
What kind of pipe is it? Wall thickness?