The Nozzle is just regular galvanized 3/4 inch pipe. I would say about 3/16 of an inch thick.
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Jakob, no, I wrapped both of them with a wool/cotton blend cloth. It didn’t work very well though.
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Well truth is a pipe like that will not last wery long anyway so probably no need to worry.
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My daughter and her family are up for the weekend. We didn’t have charcoal for the grill so we used birch that was chunked up for @JocundJake last summer. I’d rather grill with wood anyway.
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I finally had some time to add a water drip to the gasifier on the atv. Wow, what a difference! I can easily get up to 30mph. Next I want to try a used motor oil drip and see if it runs the same or better.
I also got my son in law to try it out this weekend.
Also, i have a 5 gallon can of 5 year old diesel fuel that may have water in the bottom. Can it be used in place of a water drip so i don’t have to dump it out?
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Are you talking the oil/diesel fuel or the water in the bottom of the can? Oil and water don’t mix so be careful!
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I tried some emulsified on accident oil, I had to have a copper mesh screen as a backflash arrestor. Kept wanting to shoot flames out during deceleration without the screen.
I didn’t really like the mixed up stuff it kept clogging so I flushed the tubing and went back to water.
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Cody,
I tried an oil drip early on with my Corolla with similar results. I wonder how well vaporized flamable oil would cool the nozzle and/or reaction.
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Here’s the walk around video of the charcoal powered Polaris Sportsman 400.
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Looking good!
I’ve had good luck with canvas filters for charcoal gasifiers. Seems the Swedes used canvas a lot on them too. I never bothered to pleat mine but I’m sure a vertically hung with vertical pleats would go longer between cleanings.
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Do you have a picture for an example? I’m struggling a bit to come up with a final filter.
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Let me pull it up. I’ll edit my post in but just to clarify the way mine was setup was with one of the tall ammo cans. I welded through the lid with enough protruding inside so I could hose clamp the bag to the pipe. Dirty gas outside the bag and clean gas inside the bag, that way dust falls off the bag with bumps and vibration.
I used some kind of upholstery canvas but I think cheapo duck cloth would work good too. Kristijan uses towel material.
I also used some screen material to help the bag hold shape, I think with strong enough vacuum the bag would collapse around the standpipe so maybe consider a long pipe with lots of holes, or use rabbit wire as an internal frame. Something to just stiffen it a little but I wanted it to be able to breathe and shake the dust off, I notice when I let off the throttle the whole system sort of rebounds.
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I like that a lot. Thanks for the pictures. That gives me a great direction.
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Also I don’t use a cyclone or anything else. I guess my Pre Filter would be that rolled up and closed hardware cloth cylinder over my gas exit. This was an updraft. I saw Eddy Ramos use that for his Ford Ranchero and thought it was a neat idea. Catches the really big stuff which catches the smaller stuff so only dust gets through.
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I plan on making a smaller cyclone. I have all the materials, just need time. If nothing else, the cyclone should cool the gas down a bit before the final filter.
I plan on installing a tee inline to be able to use this gasifier for other engines like a generator and my sawmill.
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So this summer we’re building some hugelkultur beds for gardening. So far we have six 75’ beds started and two are almost complete
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The garden i planted before Argos is coming up nicely. This is for cabbage, onions and potatoes.
Having a badback, I broke down and bought a narrow rear tine tiller used on Facebook marketplace for half the price as new.
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Good deal on the counter rear tine tiller BiilS.
I have almost the exact same one Sear Craftsman branded to for the last 14 years too. Mines Red and the rear tines can be made to go both directions.
A few pumps of grease at that chainbox transmission fitting just above the r.h. drive wheel at 11:00 o’clock is all’s that needed.
One spark plug, a new fuel line, a couple of drive belts is all’s the repairs ever been needed.
Ha! And lots of left/right rear tines shear pins due to sunken rocks, of course. Common grade 3 bolts will take a bit more abuse and still not damage the chain transmission. Ahh . . . remount the side guard panels onto the outside with wing nuts if’ing you’er having to do lots of tall weeds, corn stalks detangling. Lets you slip of the tine assembly right off.
Use the drag stake as needed and then one hand; stand beside, operation.
Regards
Steve unruh
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I always enjoy new Simple Fire builds. Everyone adds some unique innovations in features or construction techniques. Thanks for sharing.
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Hi Bill , not sure what size engine you have on your 4 wheeler , i run a 13hp inverter generator pretty much flat out non stop for around 4 hours and i use a drop filter tank with some polyester fiber in it that helps hold back most the fine dust , i throw that away after every 2 or 3 runs , and i have a inline filter that looks a lot like the ones you use but maybe mine is a little larger in size inside the body once unscrewed is a plastic fine filter housing that i put a bamboo sock over to help clean even more dust out and its been working like a charm for years now .
But i guess because your going down the road the bumps and all will make a lot more dust out of the charcoal so have a look for a pool or spa filter housing , i have bought several over the years and they also work great once dirty swap with a clean one and wash the old one out in water ready for next time .
PS, lambs wool works the best for filters if you get hold of the 100% woolen socks they work good too .
Dave
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