Drizzle knows or is seen by most people here I presume. Anyways, lots to find.
Problems are often clogging of the charbed. A lot of people try a lot of things, but this guy uses ceramic balls to keep the bed moving. I think the pyrotouch ( the piece of iron hitting the fuel is for compacting to be sure there is no air slipping threw and for keeping the right level in combination with a auger/ switch). I think, you guys are the experts.
Well, the ceramic balls work super!
And the other thing is cooling the gasses realy fast with water. The evaporation takes a lot of heat away so the doesnt have time to degrade. Problem with watercooling is cleaning the water. He tried it with a 3d printed cyclone and cleaned ash-water. You can see it getting clearer every second. Wow, that was the moment I got really enthusiastic and wanted to share this with you guys. Some of you played around with watercooling and reported goid results, but every time cleaning was an isue.
I tried a drizzler like this guy and was able to flare just a day after the last storm. Very windy it was. Kristian complemented me for that. To recieve a complement from one of the masters here made me think I have found my path. Thanks again K. The build is KISS, the result motivating. Perfect for stationairy and maybe mobile too.
Drizzler is nothing more then a pipe, rotating grate with high temp ceramic balls on top. Cooling is with water, splashed on the outside of the pipe so nothing sticks to it. Cleaning the water with some kind of cyclone. Cleaning the gas with stainless parts for big cooling area and splased with water. with a electrostatic filter behind it, the flare is perfect blue.
I hope this cleared the videos a little. He has more and even without understanding what he is saying I am dure you will understand. Enjoy
Are you saying you have built one of these and it gave you a “blue flare”?
( little info on the Drizzler-- The developer was trying to come up with a heating system for his new house. I think he joined effort with another gentleman who had as I remember a Porsche engine and that is when the idea of hooking the drizzler to an engine. The “tamper” was originally used as you said to measure the depth of the fuel and add more when needed so they go a continuous run. I followed his work until it appeared to get too complicated to mount on a car( I thought). I have since seen two Youtube’s with vehicles running on them. ) TomC
This is the one I build. Orange flame, no filter. Just a test. It made me happy and needs some more modification.
First video is that German guy explaning the Drizzler.
Mostly used for generators. It seems if the tube get to big, 6” or more, it is not working properly anymore. No clue about dimensions, just a feeling. Difficult if there is no experience to develop a feeling.
Build an almost stainless cyclone. Spend 8 hours on it welding bending etc. And now the rest of the gasifier…. Gonna be a long story… And it all got messy but did ok washing the ash out. Normal central heating pump is worthless, no pressure. The one I used was 1 kW, way to big. Anyone a nice pumpsuplier?
o
Grundfos pump, ??? it is a good pump for its purpose. However, the installation location at the top is by no means appropriate, keep in mind that the pump always pushes water, and it must itself be in such a place that it is always flooded with water, preferably below where there is always a water supply. I have to admit that the generator also boiled for me, the cause was my superficiality, … the piston on the engine exploded and the nozzles melted. I repaired the engine for the force, but it no longer works so well, I intend to replace it with a larger one, this time on 100% wood and 10 kW.
Yes, thanks. Probably that is the problem, suction instead of presure. No way I got the air out.
Had a bad day yesterday and decided stop working and something nice. At the end called my wife for a demonstration (what are you doing all day she asked, come and take a look). No way the grundfos did his job. She left and I found another one. I wont stop until something moves and then the shit went everywhere .
I will give it some more thoughts. Liquid cooled gasifier works very good, i expect. Thanks
Today I found some time to build a new gasifier. Although it is not really a Drizzler, it looks the same. It costed me 7 hours to build . Haha, new record? Got a flare but really need a cooler.
The design is based on drawings from Luganov. Drawings were exellent, his support also. Thanks! I payed for the drawings, it is his work, so he wont be happy if I post them here.
Andthanks Mr Steve for pointing me in his direction.
Joep, I’m glad you got the gas, the gap between the hot zone and the surrounding area surrounded by hot gas forms good insulation and maintains the core temperature, it works wonders. If I were you, I would install at least three nozzles, which would thus form an oxidation ring (it looks like you only have one nozzle).
Thanks, I was thinking the same. And maybe a few long nozzles for sawdust. But lightning is simple this way. Dont know how with a nozzle-ring.
And a extra jacket outside for further air preheat.
Here JoepK look at this video of a three nozzle engine powering chipped fuel system.
It actually uses two rows of three nozzles. The top row angle downwards at 60 degrees. The lower three (spaced in-between) angle down at 30? degrees.
Naked to the air nozzles, yes.
Go to Stephen Abbadess’s youtube channel videos and see that he later added a sheet metal outside air jet wrapping chamber. For shut down smoking; and for shut down air control.
In his introductory statement on this short video when watched on YouTube you can blue-link into his site’s summery of woodgas-for-engines works. Some Q&A there.
Use your current made up system. His nozzles arraignment. The nozzles side walls in from your gas areas fed by a manifold ring. Doug Williams shows an outside ring for his three nozzles systems.
You would be gas jacketing enclosing that.
Arvid Olson/Canada did use Stephen Abbadess’s system with input permissions to convert and power AG tractors.
One for sure proof for a systems validity is if others can build it up and use it.
Since you have strayed far from the original shallow bed, jet-less Drizzler systems concepts it would be helpful if you would change this topic’s title. Use the pencil with erasure tool showing up on your opening post.
Maybe . . . “JoepK’s Adventures into Woodgassing”
Regards
Steve Unruh
Tone, you are so right. I am so blessed with my humble shop. So easy to build some.
Not yet mr Steve, I dont give up the drizzler principle. As long as diameters are small, Drizzler does ok. Above 120-160 mm the air cant penetrade and you need nozzles. Lagunov advised me in this one, and a Drizzler this big and on sawdust wont work. Nozzles are needed. And another one I follow is this one. He builds nice things.
His grate inspired me. I will try this instead of the ceramic balls. The system from last weekend is really nice for experimenting. Just take the upper plate of and put something new in. Therefore double wall penetrations are out of the question. The wet scrubber was a succes too. To be continued, maybe some I will call this thread Drizzler 1.0… or 2.0 Open top is my way to go, with respect to the WK and Ben s design.
Which is fine, but just be careful of gases and flames. carbon monoxide poisoning is real. I don’t think anyone wants to see you or your family get hurt or your place to burn up. For stationary applications open top outside might be the way to go for some. Imbert wasn’t ever the most efficient, but it was a safer option in vehicles especially getting into an accident or a farm field and starting a fire in the crop stubble.
Thanks for your concern. Next step is closing the top after burning. Now everything burns this way. It stayed hot for two days. Shop is still smelling the tar.
I don’t understand the frowning face. A little smoke up near the lights? It’s the shop I’m so envious of Joep. When I die and go to heaven I think I may end up in your shop.
.
. Haha, new record? Got a flare but really need a cooler.
