Taking a stove apart is easy. First use some good quality anti rust spray on the bolts you want to remove. Wait 24 hours after applying the spray a few times. A few of the bolts will, believe it or not come loose, but most of them will need a little help from a disc cut off wheel to be removed.
The stove is in really good condition. I resealed with stove rope around the inter mantel part and resealed it also with fireplace cement.
Where needed I am using fireplace cement to make sure it is air tight in the old gasket joints, of the main stove. I do not want to take it apart. Just seal it a leave it alone.
I put the grate shaker back toget her and it works great.
I looked up this stove from Estate Stove Company, it said wood or coal heated unit. Nice I can use my bigger pieces of charcoal or brands in it if I want to.
Coming out of the back of the stove the 90° up elbow is two piece cast iron fitting, it was broken, with large washers and bolts I put it back together. I will use some fireplace cement on the cracks and wrap it with welding blanket. With some metal clamps it should never leak or come apart. I was amazed that the casted parts openings still needed to be seal up with a gasket seal.
I replaced the upper three door windows with some new mica 3" × 4" pieces and metal screens.
I was also amazed by the tight fitting upper and lower cast iron doors. No gap at all very tight fit when latch close.
Has anyone used this type of heater before?
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Hi BobMac,
Thru the winter of 1969/1970 we central living room heated and old farmhouse in my H.S. junior year on coal with an earlier version of one of these:
Dad with an old 1950’s Dodge pickup truck would bring home a ton of anthracite? coal from the old Vancouver Coal and Ice Co. passing thru from his trucking job in Portland Or.
I’d have to shovel that off into a crib made up of boards lined shipping pallets.
Then bucket at a time into the living room.
I remember it was started up first with cedar splits and newspaper.
It stank up the house until it got up good and hot.
Had poor low firing/heating capability.
Wanted to be ran hotter. Continuously fired.
Which burnt tru the coal.
The following years we used it instead with wood. Firebox was a bit too small for bulky fir wood.
Later decades of using unshielded no-covers wood stoves taught me you could heat better with naked glass front true woodstoves using much less wood.
I figure these made sense back in eastern states areas coal-land.
Not so good out here where the coal has to be railed in across the country.
S.U.
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My Grandparents lived in Richland Wa. Their dueplex house was heat with coal furnaces in the basement. I remember the coal bin and that big old furnace with air pipes coming our different directions going up to the heat registers up stairs to different rooms. I thought it was really a simple way to heat a house. I do not remember any smell of coal. But outside there was soot everywhere because all the houses were coal heated. By the 70’s everything was converted the electricity. The soot was gone.
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A lot of those gravity furnaces in homes (built 1900-1930’s) in the Midwest USA were converted to heating oil burners or natural gas. They worked ok, not very efficient, ok when those fuels were cheap. 
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Yes Mike, key words here is " when these fuels were cheap" not any more. The stove is not very efficient, true. But my fuel is free by the sweat of my own brow. I need the exercise to stay strong. And the stove will be used in the cold uninsulated shop area and it is a lot cheaper than trying to heat with electric heaters. We also have the cheapest electric Hydropower in the USA Nation in Douglas County, Washington State from the Columbia River flow.
But trying to heat with electric the monthly bill goes up. Keeping the monies in my pocket is better and spending it on DOW things like a generator with 220 volts to run my welder if needed. My old Owan 4 kw is only 110 volts like my old 1.5 kw Generator. Need one just for producers gases when needed.
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Those gravity furnaces used no electricity but used the rising of heated air to create the circulation needed to heat the house. The hot air pipes were at the center of the house at floor registers and would warm you up fast if you stood on them. 9 or 10 foot ceilings were used to help even out the room temperature which was otherwise hard to regulate. I tore many of those furnaces out over the years when remodeling old houses.
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Asbestos is one thing you will find in old wood/coal stoves when repairing them. Spray it with lots of soapy water when you are going to remove old asbestos material and place it in a plastic bag for disposal.
I am using stove cement, inside and out where the seams come together and there is still some asbestos casket in place between the cast iron pieces. I decided not to take apart on the main firebox part.
My brother who wrote the Washinton State rules and guidelines on removing this stuff years ago. Told me if it is capsulated and sealed it can’t hurt you.
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I will still need to work on the stove pipe coming out the back. The ash pan was still in good condition.
I looked up the pricing on line for stove piping and parts, double wall pipe through window opening and misc. Stuff. Wow the prices have gone up a lot. It is the same prices at the store.
Well I need to look around for some used parts.
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Because the house is full-time electrical everything, I am looking forward to doing some HOW, Heating On Wood, with this type of gasification heating in the shop instead of using electrical heating.
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All I can say, God is good. A couple of weeks ago now I hauled this spiral welded pipe from down below the property. It is 6" and 19 ’ long. What does my stove use 6" stove pipe. If I need more pipe there is more on the abandoned homestead laying on top and just under the ground surface in Sandy soil. The 19’ piece was just laying there in the weeds. It has been over 75 years now when the homesteaders had the apple orchard there. This is where the big fancy freeway was going to go through. The state went through and bought ten miles of small orchard land along the beautiful Columbia River for this freeway but the people of East Wenatchee found out about their plans and stopped it. For now it is wildlife refuge and state park property and Douglas County PUD on the water front.
I forgot I had this very nice stove piping pieces behind the storage shed. Just need to make some hangers and a vertical pipe support and I will put the 6" pipe at the corner of the house above the roof line.
I am also going to build a triple wall pipe to go through the metal concrete window wall to the outside. Getting rid of the pink syofoam insulation. I have ceramic wool insulation I can use around the piping.
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I used my gantry crane to hoist the 100 lbs. plus stove pipe up through the stove pipe roof hoop and then bolted to the deck. It was tricky but I got it up there.
Used a plum line to make sure the pipe was straight, you can not have the smoke get confused and not going straight up. Smile.
I used the stove pipe from my other stove that is still not finished I need to fabricate a ash door for the stove before I can run it. So I did not need to buy anything. Thank you Almighty YEHOVAH God.
I will need to cut about 5" off the stove pipe to go into the window correctly.
I built a steel bracket for at the top of the roof and clapped it with three pipe clamps. It probably will not hold up to a category 5 hurricane but the house will not ether, so it should be good.
Well if it snows now at least I will be uncover or inside the garage to finish the work on the stove.
God is good, thank you Heavenly father in Yesuha Name.
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Stove pipe secured and new metal plugging the window up for the stove pipe.
Fired it up with DOW.
Now I need to let the liquid wrench spray and stove pipe cement smell burn off. That might take awhile.
I will not need to put much wood into this Estate Stove because it puts out 4 times the heat the electric heaters do. And once it heats up, it will give off heat for hours.
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Now if you could jack it up about 2 1/2 feet long, and put a WK burn tube under it and fill with charco, it might burn nearly smoke free- I am thinking about building a over sized WK gasifier and heating the house trailer and barn with that,might need more wood chopping though, maybe a 16" burn tube i could use bigger chunks. Or at leiste during the more mild weather when the smoke stays closer to the ground.
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You caint beat a good old stove like you got there for a indoor heater- the boilers like i got out in my work shop, loose heat in the shop at night and through the water lines heading into my trailer house./ I had a old factory made wood stove in my two story city house in the basement,that worked good no fans needed as steve said. I want to see your indoor thermistat asap in your shop heating burner.
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I had the garage door open to cool the garage area down. The stove holds heat really well with the fire out. I have not tried any charcoal chunks in it yet, but I know it will work good when I do. Once it got hot I could not see any smoke coming out the top of chimney.
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Looking good Bob. Crows need heat too 
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I am just wondering, why you did not put longer section of smokepipe inside garage. From your pics it seams that you could have few feet more to the right from your stove.
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The plan is to heat the area on the other side of the concrete wall with the stove pipe. This whole area under the deck will be dry storeage and inclosed in the winter months some day.
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Went to bed at 11:00 pm, 01:00 am Wayne’s time. Woke up at 04:00 am , 06:00 am Wayne’s time. He probably already had half his chores done.
We had snow high in the mountains but a cold hard rain last night.
Nothing like a morning fire with out having to go camping outside. But that’s fun too.
The garage/shop area is warmed up in minutes, how sweet it is.
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A big plus to having the stove in the basement area is I can just open the door and the heat will go up the the stairway to the living room, dinning room, kitchen , bed rooms , bathroom areas.
The garage/shop area is below the living, dinning, kitchen area. Heat will keep the floors warm.
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