this is my 1991 ford f-350 i am posting photo,s of my work on getting it ready for my gasifier, i think a flat bed with a cut-out will be easier to install the gasifier and have room to haul more wood chips. the last photo , i just made it up real fast to show how it will be laid out basicaly , cooling tubes and other details will be worked out as i go. and the gasifier will be enclosed with expanded metal for safety,
Wow David, you’ve got all kinds of room on that truck. Have you had your existing producer hooked up to it? Let’s hear some info!
Terry
Hi DaveO
Glad you made it here. In answer to your question of fire tube sizing “I think” 'cause you are going to be really load running your fuel injected Ford 460 you should read the “V -10” topic here for the dimentioning Wayne used on it. Pretty heavy chassis and HD towing you have in mind.
What will your fuel composition be? Chipped. Out of what kind of chipper? Screened for long shreds and fines? I know with your capability you can set up and automate this with a Greg Manning type of system.
Best regards
SteveU.
HEY TERRY, NO I HAVE NOT HOOKED IT UP, AND THE MAIN REASON IS I HAVE BEEN UNABLE TO KEEP IT RUNNING CONSISTENTLY FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME, ONE OF MY PROBLEMS HAS BEEN CONDENSATION BUILD UP,. I THINK ? I NOW HAVE FOUND THE SOURCE OF MY PROBLEM, AND WILL MAKE THE NEEDED CHANGES, I HAVE BUILT AND RE-BUILT THIS GASIFIER SO MANY TIMES , I THINK I COULD DO IT WITH MY EYES CLOSED.,. LOL. AS FOR ROOM ON THE TRUCK WE HAVE GOTTEN THE HORSE BEFORE THE CART, ( THE TRUCK ABOUT READY BEFORE THE GASIFIER ) THE CUT OUT AREA IN THE FLAT BED IS WHERE I AM GOING TO MOUNT THE GASIFIER AND FILTER , LOOK AT THE PIECE OF STEEL ON THE BED , THAT WILL BE MOUNTED ALONG THE FRAME IN THE CUT OUT AREA, SO THE BOTTOM OF THE GASIFIER WILL BE EVEN WITH THE RUNNING BOARDS, I HAVE SEEN PICTURES OF TRUCKS, BACK IN THE 40,S THAT HAD THEIR GASIFIERS MOUNTED THAT WAY. SO THIER GASIFIERS DO NOT STICK UP ABOVE THE CAB VERY MUCH,. DAVID ORRELL
http://jamclasses.drbanjo.com/static/dimages/019.JPG
HI STEVE, IT TOOK A LITTLE LONGER FOR ME TO FIGURE OUT , THIS WEB SITE. I KNOW MY 6 YEAR OLD GRANDSON COULD HAVE DONE IT MUCH FASTER., THANK YOU FOUR YOUR GOOD ADVICE. BUT I AM HERE NOW, I THINK DRIVING ON WOOD HAS GREAT POTENTIAL, TO HELP US GASSERS GET IT ON DOWN THE ROAD, I AM NOW USING CHUNKED GARD WOOD, AND TESTING SOFT WOOD TO SEE WHAT THE DIFFRENCE WILL BE, BUT OF COURSE YOU KNOW IT IS SCRAP LUMBER OUT OF OUR DUMPSTERS, SO I AM HOPING TO TO KEEP THE CHUNKS UNIFORM IN SIZE AND CONTENT AS POSSIBLE. I HAVE BOUGHT A PALLET CHIPPER, BUT THINK I MAY END UP SELLING IT AND DOING THE CHUNKING SOME OTHER WAY ??? DAVID ORRELL
Hi DaveO
This pallet chipper of yours can chip up pallets, nails and all? Pictures of the chipper and the chipped end result??
Wayne and other running nail & staple filled chunks all say it works OK for awhile then the nails/staples heat fuse togather into a ball of worms either plugging the restriction hole or the grate. Wayne has pictures of fished out steel/iron worm lumps.
Greg Manning is out of Canada fueling with screened chipped aspen? larch? wood. He has posted up pictures of an inclined rotory screening system on one of the Yahoo groups. He is a menber here as a31ford (Greg Manning). You could contact message him through here, and ask him directly for info and pictures. Go up to “Whats new” -> open up “Memebers” -> scroll back through the members list until you find him -> click on his name in blue -> then on his personal page above his name there, open up the “contact” tab.
Those screening chips have reported 25% to 75% useable depending on the wood type and dryness, the actual chipper type used and the gasifier size needs.
Ask Wayne if he has fuel tested chips much on his hearth system.
Regards
SteveU.
Steve, you will be glad to see I have added a search box on the members page.
Wayne does not run small chips because they are too fine for his units. He gets better power from coarser fuel. He uses rough chunks straight from the chunker - he doesn’t screen them either. they probably would not pass WWII regulations for Imbert fuel. Anything from ping pong ball size to softball size. Some long and thin, occasional sticks. Never any bridging.
David Orrell thank you. David thanks for posting pics of your truck bed rebuild. It inspired me to take the bed off of the Green Flame and build a flatbed situated to handle the gasifier. I hope to have more photos on my bed tomorrow.
i like how you stretched the f350, any pics on your gasifier innards? im trying to get a design for the burner on my build, measurements and pics would be rockin!
5-14- 12 i decided to post some more photo,s, we are working on the truck again, but these photo,s are old, the photo of our welding shop at our dumpster buisness location is made out of storage containers and other salvage materials so we can repair our own dumpsters instead of sending them out to be repaired, much cheaper if we can get the time to do it, winter time is slow but this building is not heated, i think i need to build a stationary gasifier to heat the shop.
i think i saw you at the meet in Argos, but didn’t get a chance to talk with you, Dave. i see you haven’t updated this thread since before the get-together. hope you made it home ok.
did you ever finish your build? im looking at running the same engine efi 460
HI BRENT , i am working long hrs. now in our dumpster buisness june is one of our most busy months, but i am making some small progress, my gasifier is finished except for the grate shaker, the chip hopper is 90 % finished, i have the ( seperating tank ) welded together, i am going to start build the cooling / piping stage next week, so i should be ready to start mounting everything on my truck by the first of july ??? when i start mounting on the truck i will post photo.s of doing that, one of my biggest challanges is going to be hooking it up to the engine, i may need to get some help when i get to that stage ?? DAVID-O
thats pretty cool, i still havent seen a single person successfully run the EFI 460 on woodgas, i believe these engines will run bc the speed density computer is so basic, even if the oxygen sensor screams something is wrong the computer will just go into closed loop, where the timing and fuel tables are rich and safe, i would recommend plugging your EGR valve’s vacuum line bc the woodgas burns so slow adulterating the intake charge with exhaust gas for a slow lean burn is not necessary, i have run and towed with my 460 and never had ping from eliminating the EGR, even with the distributor advanced 4 deg from the suggested 10deg btdc, also your air injection system for the exhaust is worthless, it puts in clean air before and after the catalytic converter, eliminating the lines and air pump will not result in a check engine light if you keep the vacuum control relays hooked up to the computer, no vacuum is needed at the relays, when you eliminate the air pump from the serpentine system a shorter belt or small extension (1"-2") at the alternator will tighten the belt back up, and give you room for some sort of serpentine power accessory, i know all of the above from experience in multiple efi 460’s, when it comes to what im about to say im only speculating, i would recommend using the factory airbox filter as one last means of filtration, and having valves to it controlling air and woodgas mixtures that you can control from the cab, then a simple kill switch for the fuel pump relay, and if it still somehow is sucking gasoline to the injectors with engine vacuum, a tank selector will close off the fuel line.
i hope this might help and i cant wait to see whos efi 460 is running on wood first! 
HEY HEY , 103 DEGREES OUT THERE TODAY,ACCORDING TO THE THEMOMETER IN THE BOSSES TRUCK. I AM NOT SWEATING TO THE OLDIES , BUT THIS OLDIE IS SWEATING, THE AIR IN MY TRUCK DOES NOT WORK, SO I HAVE 2-55 AIR TWO WINDOWS DOWN AND 55 MPH. NOT BAD AS LONG AS I AM MOVING LOL. I TOOK A FEW PHOTO,S OF MY GASIFIER TRUCK . THE GASIFIER MOUNTING AREA IS FINISHED EXCEPT FOR GRINDING A FEW WELDS AND SOME TOUCH UP PAINTING . I AM NOT GOING TO MOUNT THE GASIFIER YET, I AM GOING TO BUILD , PAINT AND MOUNT THE COOLING PIPING FIRST, I AM HOPING TO START MOUNTING THE GASIFIER AFTER THE 4 TH.
Hey Dave,
Looks good. It is obvious how passionate you are about getting it done. Hot up here in WI also. Dryer than dry!
I tried sending you an email on fathers day to your personal address, but it got kicked back. Can’t wait to see your custom chip hopper.
Also, on your earlier post about welding a mild steel top to a stainless barrel, I hope you used stainless wire, or it won’t hold. You can’t use mild steel wire on stainless but you can use stainless wire on mild steel.
David S
i re-read what i posted earlier, i would scratch using the factory airbox filter, i read somewhere thats a no-no, now after thinking about what i had planned on doing to hook it up to the engine i was kind of thinking this:
since our 460’s have a dual throttle body wouldnt it be nice to use one side as woodgas and the other as clean air? i thought so, since you could almost evenly ration them with a perfect dual set of synchronized butterflies, but i have noticed with our stock “snake neck” into the intake this is not possible, in order to do that we have to remove the separation in the snake, bc each butterfly feeds 4 cylinders with only a 1/2" hole to join them, so 4 cylinders would get 100% woodgas, the other 4 cylinders 100% air, i read somewhere that performance could be obtained by “porting out the snake divider” and sharpening the dual plane divider on the intake manifold, i think ill do this so i can use the throttle body to mix the gas at 1:1 ratio
also think about the idle air bypass solenoid, it lets a lil air in according to the computers input, that is how it runs when idling bc the butterflies dont let much air past when theyre closed, and gummed up they make a perfect seal i bet, the idle air bypass solenoid needs a rationed amount of air and gas to feed the 460 idling, unless you have another set of rationing valves ahead of the butterflies to provide woodgas and air then feed the idle air bypass valve with this mixture it wont idle it would just die, i think a simple set of valves adjustable from the cab could do the trick, so you would have the idle ratio adjustment ontop of your regular running ratio valves, but if your ONLY getting air into the idle air bypass valve it wont idle…
i know my efi 460 like the back of my hand, but i dont know woodgas so well, i think by doing the above the plumbing to the engine would be so much simpler, since the throttle body does the woodgas/air rationing and the throttle, but you could use the factory airbox too, take two “top sections” the black plastic that has the two tubes going to the intake and mate them together and you have 4 lines of 3" pipe in and out, instead of the wide single section on the bottom half, if you figure out something different im still tossing around ideas in my head so lemme know
HI BRENT, I AM OUT OF MY LEAGUE WHEN I GET UNDER THE HOOD, I WILL DEFINATLY NEED HELP. IN THAT DEPARTMENT.
We tried this with a large V8 using the carb as an air mixer and got poor performance.
Page 109 Handbook of biomass downdraft gasifier engine systems will show you the way to put woodgas into the gas engine. If you need more explanation of what needs to be done and why, just private message me or start a thread on this subject in the builders forum.
hey david, i took these pics this morning to help you understand a bit more what i was talking about, and woody ill definately check out pg 109, thats the handbook the website has a link to right?
also david im interested in the diesel bubbler, i thought about an oil bath filter as a last means of cleaning
see how the “thing” that connects the throttle body to the intake manifold has a divider between the two incoming air ways? it keeps the air pretty much seperated into the dual plane intake manifold, and then each separated side feeds 4 cylinders, i was talking about removing the division, an article i read somewhere says this will help your performance, and then the dual plane separator would need to be sharpened, the idle bypass is fed by the small tube on the “thing”, this way the throttle body could ration the gas and be the throttle, so another footpedal isnt necessary, although this is just me thinking of the best way to do it, as woody said his situation didnt yield good results, but i think im going to try this approach, if it does work it should make the plumbing easier, if it doesnt work i can just mix the air and woodgas before the butterflies and idle air bypass and it should just work fine, and yea david if you need anyhelp with the 460 thats what were here for man!
edit: my computer is messing up bad, it shows the pics i want uploaded but puts up different ones that are not relevant, ill try to send them to you