Ok i hit a snag , well a small problem i hope will be able to be worked around , the original generator head has a potentiometer and a amp meter , dc outlet and starter button in a box on the side of the housing , on its original engine i think this box was on the side mounted , but if i mount it that way on this engine the 4 holes line up fine , but the Centre is slightly out , only way to get it to have a equal air gap around the stator is if i rotate the whole generator so now the box is at the top of the engine ( normally where the fuel tank is ) it now means i have had to remove the box off the side of the gen head and maybe extended the cables going to the coils to allow me to move the box to a better position ,
This engine will be running only on veggie oil so i will need a fuel tank on top , unless i use a long fuel pipe and locate elsewhere .
Dave
Thinking about how to over come such a simple problem reminded me of one of the smartest man i know , i am not sure if you have heard of him , but those of you that are into small and large engines and motorcycles will be amazed at what this man does with standard engines to redesign and build them into something unseen before .
Steve , there are a lot of small engines he has build here so its sort of belongs in the small engine post of yours i hope , and Tom i think you will really enjoy a genius at work from a small tiny shed at the bottom of his garden .
Dave
Hey. He made up a mini-Ducati.
Then New Zealand Burt Monroe was claimed to have backyard shop cast and made ups his own pistons for his speed run motorcycle.
Both just having fun with small engines.
You too will get there Dave. A maybe aught to locate that veggie-fuel tank as metal right next to the exhaust anyhow.
Regards
Steve unruh
That is by far my favourite movie, i just love it!
Well I have to question whether you can shave the tread off old tires and they will hold up to whatever Burt ran at Bonneville {don’t remember} but that was a really good movie. When I got out of high school I was working in a motorcycle shop doing stupid things like extending springer forks and making hard tail replacements for swing arm Harleys. The guy that owned the shop had an Indian Chief. Only one I’ve ever seen in person. Him and his wife were morphine addicts. Got into a bad bike accident and was laid up for a while and never went back to work there. I always wondered where that bike ended up.
Well both of these fellows seem to have a lot of character to go with their abilities:
And Mr Millyard says one of his bikes can be seen on display in museum in Birmingham Alabama USA.
TomH. you’ll want to quick-skip right ahead to 11:25
S.U
I’ve read an article somewhere about some high speed tires, they where thin as balloons to minimize the centrifugal force trying to rip them apart.
I don’t know if Burts recipe work though 
Hi All.
I did recieve my Bilt Hard TGA-0251 2500/2000 watts inverter generator.
This is it getting it’s third oil change out:
This first photo is just a regular side tip drain out.
I saw from the end of engine case fill-drain plug location that maybe I could get more hot oil and suspended break-in particles out by corner tipping it also:
Just a heads up to any of you with one of these many named branded actual DUCUR 79.9cc engine clone systems.
I went with this stripped down super basic distributors named Bilt Hard system as it is currently the absolute cheapest to buy at this time. $303.79 USD shipped to my gate.
I did not want an Info center that will fail. I did not want a CO detector system I’d just be disconnecting. I did not want an inaccurate float fuel level guage that will lie. Just shake the unit for the slosh is the tank level guide.
But I did want the tool-less side cover removal with the big open access.
I intentionally under filled for this fourth by 100ml short. Just touched the tip of the dip stick. Yep. Will not give spark then. So the low oil level shut-down system works. Put in the last 100ml of the 400ml total and it started right up.
This will be a loaner-out unit.
So I will not be even testing and posting up the performance capabilities of this unit. I will not be comparing it to the Wife’s superior Honda 2000 inverter unit.
This has all be well covered already in these two videos:
Seriously. This is a limited time opportunity to buy-in for the $300. range many distributor branded 79 (80cc) engined inverter units in the true working 1600-1900 watt working range.
The Market and Ducar manufacturing are now changing up to 98cc engines driving now for a true 2200-2000 watt working ratings. These are all priced stepped up now higher in the high $400’s to high $500, even $600 costs now.
Better. Maybe. Maybe not; if your true needs are in the 500 to 1500 watts loads. As in PV system powering supplementing as explained by Brian Waters the Gear &Gadget guy up on the video in post #37. These smaller engined earlier units will give you more hours per gallon of gasoline.
As Todd of Project Farms tested these clone units respond to load changes much, much slower than a Honda.
Slow unit response and the supplied voltage will sag some.
Ha! Loaner unit it will still be be safer for electronics than the synchronous RPM Pulsar 2-stroke Chinese clone loaner unit. And even better than the 120/240 3600watt synchronous RPM Briggs & Stratton loaner unit.
I’ll put up more on this more if there is and interest.
After 20 hours to be absolutely sure this stand out electric-blue unit gets painted in mottled green and browns. Making it less noticeable. Not attractive to steal; and then and resell.
Regards
Steve unruh
I know there is at least one guy interested 
I might have to get one of these for my mother, but I have a feeling she’ll hate it because you have to pull start it.
Yes. Unfortunately a true observation CodyT.
My widowed Sister who had the Yamaha 2000 inverter-generator unit from her husband gave it up for some “solar-generator” system she bit-on from YouTube advertisements.
I told her She just gave up 11 hours of power in a gallon; for what? 2? 4? 6? hours.
Electric starting IC engined inverter-generator units begin in the ~high $800’s. (refurbished) to ~$1200 range.
Ha! I pulled out our Harbor Frieght 9500 unit to show it off on the day of the family gifted to me 3600 B&S generator drop off.
Of course its starting battery had gone dead. Me, embarrassed; herk-pulled it started in one pull. Few woman could do that.
These little mini’s most woman can pull start. Especially the gravity tank types.
The Honda’s the toughest for them with pulsator fuel pumps needing many pulls to lines and carb bowl fill if ran, and manually drained, dry.
S.U.
There is another guy here also interested
That makes us tree guy’s interested.
Keep it coming SteveU, you are the generator expert here
About women and pull-starts, when learning your wife to start a chainsaw, never, ever let her try a “tuned” over 100cc saw, with advanced ignition… it will make her affraid of pull-starting for a while.
In one of my fantasies my wife is starting a chainsaw and cutting wood. Old guys have much different fantasies than young ones. I doubt I could start your saw either Goran. Started my Echo 590 the other day after it sitting in the truck since November. That was a workout. Non-ethanol gas as well.
Well there are some solutions for “Easy Starting” on small single cylinder engines for the gals and us he-men, gone old and weakened.
#1 make sure it IS an actual small engine. I had to buy my wife her own weed-wacker a Stihl FS56 C-E. My FS250 was off-putted to her. I was accused of excluding her out from having fun too.
The little engined 2-stoke generator is actually tough to pull start over having to spin up also it’s generating armature mass. Small footprint having to other hand push back hold steady the unit to keep from flipping over, upside down. A little inverter generator with its lighter weight PM magnet bell and larger base is much, much easier to pull over.
#2 find models with actual loading up spring starters like the Stihl Easy2Starts. Only give the the gals models with actual fuel primer bulbs. NOT pull over 4-6 times just to crankcase pulsations fuel pump and prime purge.
Most of the Stihl chainsaws take a lot of pumping cranking when cold, been left sitting.
The Honda’s EU2000’s, EU2200 inverter generators the same from carb bowl ran dry or drained out long storage. Minimum five to ten pulls needed.
I finally did find some long storage capability Aspen fuels at a distance rural town Farm and Feed store:
The red bottle is the Aspen2 pre-mix for 2-strokes. The three quart white bottles; Aspen4 for 4-strokes.
This Bilt Hard inverter generator I finished off the breaking-in with from ran dry a half-quart fill of Aspen4 and then a 1500 watt load for 30 minutes. Ran fine with the same power as my 6 months old ethanol-free marine gasoline I had been using. The Aspen4 fuel then left in the tank bottom, line and carburetor bowl for set-aside until needed; storage.
I’ll now pull out the other three 4-stroke inverter generators and run them on a bot od Aspen4. Set them up as fuel wet storage on the Aspen4.
Wet stored the Honda starts up usually on the first pull.
Even big-me; I tire anymore pull-pull-pull-pull-pulling-over the cold been long time sitting cranky small engines.
Steve Unruh
Just so you all do not think I am pushing any brand . . .
I was sure JOHNNY’s WEEKEND has a video he did add an electronic tachometer and then photo up the Eco and full load RPM’s on one these 79cc inverter-generator machines.
Mine is lasted as 4800 RPM. But at Eco-low? Or max-RPM loading?
He answers that in this video:
Looking past in his channel I did find he had tested three years ago and reported on this A-ipower 2000/1600 watt machine for a low, low $279. USD. This price from the associates link in this video’s “… more” to Amazon is still effective current:
Only a very few of these brands will have an actual true parts and service organization.
Honda and Yamaha for sure. Generac? Champion? Maybe?
These distributor brands named, you will get what you get, then it is all on you.
S.U.
I wonder what the most common failure parts are in these cheap inverter generators? Engines? Electronics? Would it be better to buy three 300 dollar machines instead of one Honda for about the same price or less? At least you would have spare parts.
TomH. I’ve been reading along for the past few years to try and sort out what fails on these.
Information read out centers - near 100% failures.
The add on 12 VDC and associated USB sub-charger system. Nearly 100% failures.
Pull cords breaking. ~50% failures. Honda’s do system running vibration chafe on their pull cords! Then even quality cord will break there.
And like many of these from different factories Chinese engines . . . some want to eat themselves up from internal worn shed particles.
A Firman branded 1400/1200 little synchronous generator engine I never could get to stop showing glitter even after five oil changes in the first 50 hours. I gifted it on anyhow. Now it has become the most treasured valued because it always starts up regardless of the fuel. The temperature. And doesn’t shut down if set on an incline or the oil gone minor low.
Mostly engine problems are the same for all; in gasoline related.
Guys like James Cordon and other doing these for a living are not finding the inverter failures.
The engine in this BILT Hard just like the real Honda or the Yamaha showed in-oil aluminum glitter only on the first use oil. Then clean after that. I am very happy surprised.
Yeah. Yeah. A tough decision. Buy The Honda. Only being able to buy the Honda. Or buy 2-for-one; or even 3-for-one in a Chinese’s clone machines and have back up. And then be your own spare parts. This info that most in their heart base systems is a real revelation.
I’d say my decisions are obvious, eh. But this has been spending stretched-out across 5-6-7 years.
S.U.
Reading that i got a dull pain in my shoulder, and a stinging feeling in my fingers
Haha, and the worst: heavy hard-starters you hold to the ground, when pulling, when it kicks back and pull back it’s cord, that d*mn T-handle seems to always hit your thumb (on the hand holding it to the ground)
Seems especially true with old McCulloch’s, an old trick was to choke/prime them a lot, this gives an “dull” starting, no heavy explosive kick-back’s