The probe looks like it is bent and has a larger gap then it should where it is attached to the threaded portion. but if it is holding alcohol it might still work.
someone on a jeep forum mentioned they also used ether at one point.
If it is too expensive for a replacement, I personally would just replace it with like a 3d printer thermistor and a raspberrypi pico or some other cheap controller. But that is me… not you.
tone, thanks for the drawings…today afternoon i opened the bulb with a little hole on the end where it has his original soldered closure…i expected alcool would come out, but it is a kind of clear oil - how steve unruh has said…
have soldered a srew there for fill and close and tried with alcool 96%
with the candle flame (what is more hot of course as boiling water) the needle rises up without problems, with boiling water nearly no reaction on the needle.
my explanation is : the heat expansion of the original oil is larger as the heat expansion of the alcool at the same temperature.
the mechanism and his dimensions are constructed for this kind of oil.
the big question is now: what kind of oil this can be???
our experts…???
thanks giorgio
Avtomobilski termostati, ki vzdržujejo temperaturo hladilne vode motorja, vsebujejo parafin, ki ima to lastnost, da ko se začne taliti, se njegova prostornina poveča,…
Mogoče je v tem termometru parafinsko olje ???
tone, your translater…i understand more or less automobil thermostat , temperatur, motor, thermometer, oil, and paraffin…
i thought also by intention…maybee paraffin, i know it only because people give it in the wine barrels between wall and swimmer to protect the wine …
it must be a oil what not makes residues with a while…
Maybe some kind of paraffine? There are thin fluid like paraffin, used to power engines in the past, like lamp oil or engine kerosene.
I’ve also heard ether was used in those gauges, because of it’s high steam pressure.
I think your gauge is maybe little seized? The pressure of boiling water is not enough for turning the pointer needle, this mechanism must move very easy.
göran, yes , it seems little sized, the bulb has 9 mm diameter…
will try with paraffin when i come to a shop next time…meanwhile we built a kind of old fashioned cooler thermometer from water installation stuff and a bimetall thermometer…
this bimetall thermometers are really cheap stuff, each of them signs different temperature, but for my use doesnt matter, i calibrate it in the interesting degrees between 80 and 100…
fixing the boiling point with another more reliable thermometer
the thermometer on the cooler, not proven yet on the engine…only calibrated with hot water approximately…
i contacted with someone who repairs cooler thermometers like my original one…he told the liquid was also formalin - very poisoness- , ether can be usedinstead and also mixed with formalin when the original quantity is not more existant…but filling must be done under vaccuum, what he has explained a bit wider…
also silicone oil he mentioned, but i looked in google, this is very heat stable till 180 degree, so i wonder how it can go in vapor to move the mechanism of the thermometer…
also aceton can be used he says…
it must not always be rubber…the gear command lever got a protection cap from leather…
i remember when i was a child i have seen those in a old mercedes bus …also the door automatic for closing from the drivers seat was a simple leather belt…
exiting, with back gear up on the street…
first time in my life i drove a chain tractor…needs concentration comanding with the levers and hand clutch…forget car driving, or you use the left brake instead of the clutch…
a question to our experts about oil pressure…in the handbook is written oil pressure should be 3 to 3,5 kilogramm during use…
foto 1 shows oil pressure on idle with warm oil…in the beginning the pressure was higher, when the oil was not so warm…with more open throttle goes up to 2 kilo…but not more.
i tried on the pressure regulating screw on the oil filter, but the pressure goes not higher…
must have a look again on the pressure valve…
but i observed this also on my hanomag that immediately after start the pressure goes over 3 kilo, and after longer drive it goes down to 0,5 kg espescially with low rpm, at higher rpm it goes up to 1 kilo at the hanomag,
is this a behavior of the modern motor oils, of their viscosity??
the under red sketch is the system of our traktor…when i understand right, less pressure on the spring by the screw opens more the channel of the oil bypass and oil pressure in the system gets lower?..more pressure on the spring make getting oil pressure in the system higher?
in the handbook is written 3-3,5 kilo oil pressure during operation…how this can happen when oil heats up? or the old kind of motor oil was different in behavior? separate kind of oil for summer and winter?
Not woodgassed, but a recommended linked video that popped up showing BIG single cylinders taken out to the extreme in a working tractor. Real counter force Hoppers for sure!!
And farther into the video these Beasts being controlled by women/girls even.
An Italian manufacturer.
Enjoy
Steve Unruh
And then a bit of history on the origins of this design concept:
