by this ocassion we observed the famous " mannes - wesseling effect"… from well known scientists here on the forum…
after stopped blowing the gas burns and burns with chimney effect, the flame not becomes weaker, about 8 cm high…after 15 minutes we closed primary air intake, because we were tired…interesting that the flame was always constant, the very big coal space around the nozzle keeps the temperature very well, maybee this is the reason because the flame not becomes weaker…would be interessant to try with a gas mantle for outdoor light when eating the evening pizza…
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spring starters…
S30, MAXIMUM 11.25 TURNS OF THE CRANKING HANDLE (youtube.com)
WORKWELL STARTER MASTER ASSEMBLY (PART WISE ANIMATION) (youtube.com)
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as we has recently a successfull first run with the crawler, first run of the engine here on our place and first run with chargas, so we looked the last days to repair some more things …
on the ventilator rotor there were some rivets without heads, so it seems better to teplace them bevore the wings fly uncontrolled around our heads maybee…
with this occassion we discoverd that the cog of the ventilator runs dry, maybee since longer time at the previous owner, also the other cogs seems to have a lack of lubrification.
the oil channel is located behind the reverse wheel, from there the oil should be distributed…
but it was all full with thick oil stuff…and the oil was not able to arrive to the upper cog…
also what we found when opening the oil screw was not so pleasant…the oil was only partially a bit dark, but mostly it was more yellow or golden colour…
stuff what not mixed with the oil, but sinks down with a while and the remaining oil raises up.
can this be parts of maybee entered petrol in the years when the engine runs on petrol??
further longer ago when i made the new oil bath filter, i have dismantled the old one and have seen that a gasket on top was not more there…shure there was entered some fine dust from field working directly via combustion chamber in the motor oil…the reason for the thick stuff on the bottom…
also some traces of water…hopely no split in the cast housing of the water circuit…
but maybee it comes - hopely- only from air umidity.
the right cog on one side on the teeth surface was really rusty…seems the engine stands for a long time without movement. the cheaper petrol fuel ends in the 80ies…
seems the motor oil is yet the original from 1952…very precious for collectionists…
when i bought the engine the oil on the half heigt of the oil stick was not dark but more yellow. was hard to say, respective it seems it was changed recently, and has not runned much, because it was not dark…
on my hanomag i have had 30 years ago a water in oil problem, and there the oil becomes a really grey emulsion, immediately visible on the oil stick and the oil fill cap has had a white slimy substance on the inner side, also the cap on the top of the valves…
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on two pictures are details of the hand crank mechanism - greetings to jan ola…
interesting construction that avoids - frome my modest insight- the danger of kickbacks…
when the motor starts, the cog of the crankshaft throws immediately to the left side the lever with the starter cog, supported with a spring…
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Many years of rest, many temperature changes, which cause the engine to breathe and thus a lot of water accumulates inside the engine housing, even if it is stored under the roof. Even motor oils of older origin were without special synthetic additives and detergents, so they can become mushy over the years, paraffin is probably slowly secreted,…
You have a good machine, I don’t think there is any fear of cooling water leaking, except at the top of the engine head gasket, which you would notice during operation in the refrigerator.
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the cooler thermometer not works more…has someone experience how it works and if/ how it can be repaired??
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Typically on these old ones Giorgio the sensing bulb is hollow filled with a temperature expanding mineral oil. This is continuous up thru a capillary tube up into the gauge head. Inside the gauge head is a formed flattened tube in a semicircular shape. Internal rising fluid pressure wants to straighten out this tube. Tube end is gear connected to the needle stem.
Usually the failure is loss of the internal liquid. Cracked sensing bulb. Cracked/damaged metal capillary line. These can be maybe repaired. Or an expanding-contracting worked-cracked gauge internal “Bowden”? tube or diaphram. Non-repairable.
Sometimes it is simply the internal gear clockworks are frozen from corrosion. Repairable.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Giorgio, somewhere i have a book about instrumentation works, see if i can find it.
There is description about how to change the capillary tube and check for leaks, next step is to drill a very tiny hole in the bulb, and fill a exact amount of pure alcohol with a syringe.
Then the hole should be soldered tight VERY fast, as soon the soldering iron starts to heat the bulb, the alcohol tries to leak out.
Next is calibration, typically at 20°c or the bulb in a can of water with melting ice-0°c.
At this moment the thin parts moving the needle/pointer should be bended carefully.
How long is the distance/capillary tube? There are often good used or new ones to be found.
As SteveU mention these often go bad by stuck internals in the scale.
Another problem is if the engine some time has been run HOT, check for “bubbly” solder on the bulb.
Broken capillary tube is also common.
Edit: the diaphragm inside the gauge sometimes crack due to brass aging, probably not possible to repair, very thin stuff.
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Hello Giorgio, Steve and Goran have described capillary thermometers well, well, these instruments work similarly to pressure gauges
, it is difficult to define which substance your instrument is filled with. Here I would almost agree with Goran, who mentions alcohol. In fact, this meter works on the principle of the vapor pressure of alcohol, which is heated in a small container and the pointer moves through the capillary, it is good to know that the volume of the container is much larger than the rest of the volume and even this container is only partially filled with liquid (approx. 50%) . You can do the filling process “at home” by placing a short capillary tube on the capillary tube near the container, through which you fill the liquid with a medical needle, and then squeeze this filling capillary and solder the end, this is also how pressurized cooling systems are filled.
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thanks for the detailed answers, will see what is to make…
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today i worked on the thermometer… with heat it shows a little reaction, so i decided to drill a hole in the housing to arrive at the mechanism.
through the hole i filled alcool in to clean the mechanism.
after i evaporated the rest of the alcool out by candle heating on the housing.
now the thermometer , when the bulb is in boiling water , shows beetwen 40 and 80 .
always the same result.
when trying to heat the bulb with candle fire, the needle goes up to 100 without problem.
maybee too less liquid in the bulb?
opening the soldered end of the bulb and injecting some alcool more?
who has ideas what is right to do?
thanks giorgio
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Giorgio, if there is still some space in the motor housing when the thermometer sensor is installed, you can solder a capillary tube through which you fill the alcohol, squeeze and solder the end. Another option is to re-solder a small tube in which you make a thread, here the sealing will be solved with a screw that will deform the end of the copper tube, so you also have the option of “calibrating” the meter.
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