I found two dakotas for sale, one is a 1996 318 with ~80k miles, and the other is a 2003 360 with ~100k miles. Neither have any exterior damage nor underbelly rust.
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How much are they going for, respectively? I would go for the 1996 if you’re wanting to stay as close to the book as possible.
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The 1996 is actually a 94, and its listed at $9,250. The 2003 is listed at $11,995. I don’t mind having to relocate the 03’s shock absorber.
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Personally I would go for the 94. That’s an even more desirable year for woodgas. Also lower mileage and costs less. You’ll go highway speeds no problem.
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I feel like this is more of a conversation of how much to pay for used vehicles
That’s not a bad thing of course, I’m not even claiming that it’s off topic. This is actually one of my favorite topics
I recently just got a 2001 F350 that has the 7.3 diesel for 6,000. Had just over 200,000 miles
I can pretty well consistently find used vehicles for 5,000 and under that are in really good condition and decent mileage.
For example, older Dodge Dakota (1990s) in my area can be consistently found for between $500 to $3,000. Mileage and wear vary of course. Facebook marketplace is your Golden girl for finding good used vehicles near you. Craigslist is still pretty decent. Copart.com is also a great resource, me and my dad would get cars from this auction when I was little to repair and resell.
Just to make sure that I’m clear, I do mean running vehicles. I understand that a lot of people will think that I mean parts vehicles. There may need to be cosmetic repairs needed, or minor repairs. The more comfortable you are being able to work on a vehicle yourself, the cheaper you can get a vehicle.
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These two vehicles that I’m considering are in borderline showroom shape, so I assume I won’t be paying any less than $6.5-7k for one of them. I checked KBB for a quick valuation and it basically said the same thing.
I personally don’t want to do any work on my gasified vehicles other than putting a gasifier in the bed, moving anything around (ie. shock absorber), or worst case scenario swapping an engine.
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No matter the visible condition do expect you will be mechanical and functional working on Chrysler/Dodges this old. 28 years and 21 years aged.
Fixing as they fail electrical. Fixing other previous sub-par parts and workmanships repairs.
I wanted what you expect, in a box-van three years ago to long duration move out of two older houses and five stuffed full outbuildings.
I payed ahead $$,$$$ in a then four year old, 124,000 mile GMC 3500. It was the best; been maintained; best shifting/ driving of four I drove. Same-same as the under 60K rentals I’d been using.
I’ve had to do nothing for the 15K since on it but three oil changes; and a transmission pan drop/filter change; and then two four-quarts thru the dipstick tube suck-outs and replenish.
The trouble free design life of most vehicle manufacturers you can figure as 7 years; 175,000 miles. Some, a bit more. Most - quite a bit less before expensive problem rear’s up.
Sure I did run out the 1999 Plymouth ( a Chrysler) mini-van out to 330, 000 mile before selling it off. Two times into the drivers power window. One time into the passenger window. Twice the alternator off re-done for wear. Once the starter. Intake off once for a coolant leak.
Three sets of platinum spark plugs and wires. Firewall bank is a bugger-do. Three PCV valves and hoses.
Three accessory power belts and two replacement tensioner arm assemblies.
Front brakes every 35-40K.
Then finally the instrument-dash cluster out to re-solder the input-output + & - power pins on the board. For intermittent; then finally; no gauges.
And the 99’s and 200’s were the most reliable of all generations of Mopar mini-vans.
S.U.
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Thanks for sharing Steve. I misspoke and didn’t consider regular wear and tear that will need to be factored into my car’s upkeep.
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