I’ve been thinking a bit. I really think the pinhole I’ve mentioned, is too small for near constant higher revs. But I don’t want to drill it out just yet. Will look at the carb again, and see if I’ve missed something. If I can’t see anything obvious, I’ll try and see if I can mount a different carb.
Got a carb laying around from an ancient 2-stroke Volvo Penta 5 hp outboard engine. It uses a round coupler, so I’d have to weld up a converter plate so I can mount it. That carb also has more adjustment screws and options, and I know it worked well on the outboard it came from. (outboard engine had leaking crankshaft seals, making it run like poop, but no carb issues)
I also wanted to share an project update. I started this topic after all, to talk about my surfboard project, and it needing a higher reving engine. (which this Lawn-boy should do) Yes, I will weld up a bit of a prop guard, which will also support the bottom of my rudder. But I’m in no rush to make it, because it would make the board much more bulky and annoying to work on. And yes, I am taking safety seriously. Hence the cables for the steering in metal tubes, so nothing will get caught up in them. I’ll be using a bagage rack from a bicycle over the rear rudder sprocket, and I’m considering making an sheet metal cover, for the steeringwheel sprocket. For a throttle, I’ve used a bicycle gear selector. Removed some internals, so it no longer clicks (throttle is smooth). Engine cut-off switch/deadmans switch will be mounted just under the steering wheel/in that piece of bicycle frame.
I will be using this engine for now, knowing the board won’t go all that fast. Will use this lawn-boy engine in the future, once I feel the need for increased speed. (if I get it to run propperly)
Seriously do read that mylawnmowerforum information link that I’d put up.
Seven steps to success on more than 30 engines. Engines then with more power, and working ability.
You’ve already done step One.
Step two is float adjustment how and what to achieve as DonM. suggested.
Then a throttle plate pilot hole modification, maybe a side jet change.
Ending with how to adjust that coaxial governor spring.
Just take you 3-5 minutes to read this guide.
Steve Unruh
This is a D series from the OMC days
It has needle bearings a mechanical governed and timing advance
Yours has
Non of these old designs go features but a lot of the online advice you read is for this older unit
applies actually
I’m have a lot of trouble with posts sorry fellows
After OMC went out of business TORO bought out the lawn boy division
These have a number of different engines and some are 4 strokes
The best of the TORO lines use a Chinese 4 stroke engines that’s heavy but real good on fuel and reliable
F series and newer two strokes….
Some love them sometime me find them to be a lesser design than the previous d and c series
No d has been produced since 1979 so as you can amagine old Smokeyy I the pictures here is getting old and hard to keep running
It’s in the reserve fleet because it needs a new deck This is the standard Chinese mower engine
It’s based on a Honda commercial gov and it’s very common
Don’t let price fool you
As long as you don’t mind the weight these probably the best engines on the market
A premium mower these days has a better set of wheels or is self propelled
If your handy you can buy parts and service a Chinese engine because it still a clone gx at its core
I would not buy anything more expensive because you are looking for a name like Honda or Briggs be cause in my opinion these are not nferior to the Chinese clones if they are not GX based engines
The float wasn’t adjustable. It’s old and brittle plastic. Holds the pin in from the sides, and the bottom. The float itself is attached to the carb, with a hinge-pin. The hinge-pin goes trough cast metal. There is no adjustment possible. However… Was able to push the top part, where the fuel-cut-off-pin should rest against, in further. Now the bowl really fills up.
The throttle plate pilot hole seems to be large enough. And I had this surging issue, with full throttle/no choke. So for MY situation, this throttle plate pilot hole shouldn’t matter at all.
Again, my governor spring was total junk. In the previous vid, I used a rope to keep full throttle. Not using any springs. And I don’t want a governor on this engine, so I wouldn’t even bother trying to find a replacement spring.
Yes, I did read the entire thread you’ve send me, right after I saw your comment.
I think I’ve got exactly the same engine currently for my project. And I wanted an upgrade ready, due to the limited revs these engines seem to have. (need to get close to 5500 rpm)
Update video on how this lawnmower currently runs. I call this “fixed”. It for sure needs some more carb adjustments, and a better throttle control. But I’ll be doing that if and when I’ll use this engine for my surfboard project.
I’ve mentioned in the previous vid, that I know that brake cleaner is horrible for engines, especially 2-stroke engines. But it’s what I had to clean the carb, or start the engine.
I don’t know how many RPM’s I currently got from this engine. And I’m kinda sure I can’t get 5500 rpm from it. After all, it’s a lawnmower. But I do think it will rev up higher (safely) then a 4-stroke lawnmower engine. (and it got recommended to me by someone in this thread)
A surfboard isn’t designed by any surfboard manufacturer to do what I’m attempting to do… That’s the fun part. Make it kinda work-ish for a while. Not doing this for profit, or to have something that will last decades.
