Speaking of chainsaws, I have been using Solo brand saws for more than 25 years, the first was the Solo 651, which still works, and now the Solo 656, the blade is 45 cm long, the engine is 56 cc, there is no shortage of power for all tasks, I am of the opinion that chainsaws from 50-60 cc are the most universally useful, weight, power, agility, consumption,…
from a quick search my suspicion was right, that is a rebranded dolmar, owned by makita. i have heard great reports about dolmar saws, just not to awful common around me
Not that I am a chainsaw connoisseur of any kind but I have not seen a solo saw in real life here, not a dolmar saw either but judging by other people on youtube and such (probably not trustworthy, or some to a degree) Dolmar (and Solo) is a good brand so I would not mind one of those.
It is hard with the rebranding to know what to stay away from and what to get so I usually only get good brands. I am sick of buying crap, done that when I was younger but it is enough now.
On the other hand if ’normal’ people saw what I drag home sometimes they would think that I’m on my way to the dump but they don’t have any visions, they are just consumers 
If you want a bigger saw, and want to try Solo brand, i can recomend Solo Rex, 125cc pure power, a little heavy, but the sound gives you goosebumps.
sorry, couldn’t withstand, the chainsaw talk makes me little crazy…
I can imagine what it would sound like and I could also imagine the weight 
I remember the first chainsaw I ran, it was at a friends cabin and I think it was a McCulloch but I don’t remember which one although it had a thumbgas and was a bit cumbersome to handle. Also dangerous since none of us had any experience what so ever with chainsaws 
How many pounds of wood do you use on your commute JO? Never really worked out any data for how much I could actually dry in this thing because I went to the dark side, but I know it will dry at least a hundred pound of chunks in about two hours. Probably more. Wasn’t hard to build. Rocket stove to heat it doesn’t use much fuel.
Well . . . as I aged into my late 50’s here is what I set up as my most common used saw:
The bigger Ms440 I do horse-saw with. Let chain go dull; and try for a last finishing cut, and it will burn out a bar quickly. Expensive stupidity.
S.U.
Do I spy a older cannon lightweight bar there Steve? For a light limbing saw a long lightweight bar sure is the ticket,gives a good balance for overhead work
I did not know Oregon made lightweight bars, good to know.
Yes, it is the chain that should do most of the work, dull chain is just producing heat
I have to check this out further, haven’t read that thread yet I see.
But first I have to go to work.
I’d say about 20 a day and that’s probably about the overall avarage over the year as well. Certainly doable in a dryer like yours.
I’m a bit picky though. I avoid working with anything wood related outdoors when the weather is nasty - if there’s too much snow, too cold, too wet, too muddy or too windy, and it kinda narrows down the days I feel like playing with wood.
For the most part the weather is really nice when I’m at work or asleep after a nightshift. Knowing I have a trailer of chunks drying makes me feel a bit better about it.
If I didn’t already have year’s worth of dry chunks stored away and had to speed up the process, I would probably try something like your dryer.
Also, I’ve been saving a bunch of old windows. I planned to build a solar dryer, but that hasn’t happened yet either. Maybe if I stop typing…
…Naw, time to hit the hay.
I just wanted to say that earlier in the thread when I stressed that no power should be back-fed into this wormgearbox (i.e. flywheel on the rebak side and such) since this kind of gear can’t take that, I later discovered that it does take that. I CAN turn the motor from the rebak-side even by hand, not easily but still. So this means I was wrong, if it is my understanding of the worm gearbox that is wrong or if it is some changes in the gearbox that makes this possible, I am not sure but nevertheless I was wrong.
In case someone builds one like this it should be good to know (unless they already knows this).
Johan, I think you are right. Put the flywheel on the motor side. More momentum anyway. Wormgear isnt build for reversed forces. Cant imagine the wormwheel likes that. You have a low reduction? Normally wormgears are self braked. Sorry, bad words. I hope you understand what is meant.
Nice build. Up and running? Did you shunk some?
Yes, this is what I thought too but this one at least is built differently somehow as it can be turned by hand from the ’wrong’ side.
It is. 1400:73 ratio on the gerbox.
Up and running but I have not chunked more since the video, been struck with covid since wednesday, wife and youngest son since thursday, oldest son saturday. It’s like having the house filled with empty-staring and miserable zombies
Hope to chunk again soon
I think it’s a matter of the angles of the “theet” in the worm gear, and the slope of the thread.
Remember there was automobiles with a worm gear in the rear differential/axle, yes a real worm gear! I believe some fords and peugeots used this, they had good “self-braking” abillities when let go of the accelerator though.
That sounds right.
What, no I had no idea someone put a wormgear in the rear axle.
They must have stopped that because of too many drivers teethmarks in the steeringwheel
I belive they stopped use it because the enormous wear on the gear, if i remember correctly the big gear wheel used to be made of oil-bronze, because of the trouble lubricating it.
But they must still have had it in an oil bath and not just relied on the oil-bronze properties I hope, even though it is a lot of oil in that
Yes, it was in oil bath, the oil bronze was to compensate for “point pressure” where oil film breaks.
Wouldn’t a worm gear have to be something:1?
Since I do not know and since you asked, I’m guessing that you are correct so it would be a 20:1 ratio on this. 
