JO's -91 Mazda B2600

Thanks Kevin,
I don´t think I will try heat the hopper. Like you said, I´ll lose condensation ability. However i will dress the gasifier housing and cyclone heatex with insulation and some kind of a tin layer to keep as much heat in as possible.

Tom,

Boxing Day and as well as Christmas Day are days off here. I´m glad because it´s snowing like crazy. I´m on my way out clearing for the third time today.

Yes, I have two nozzle chambers. The lower chamber is always “ON”. It can only be shut off by closing the inlet valve. The first chamber is connected to the second via a pipe with a butterfly valve mounted inside. Opening that valve will allow air to enter the upper nozzle chamber.
When I flared I used the bottom five nozzles only for most of the time. I opened the valve to the upper ten for just a quick test but I couldn´t tell no difference in flame speed or colour since I was using only the little air mattress blower for pushing.

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Ooopps! A little confusion. I thought you had two air pipes going from the cyclone heatex to the individual air intake chambers. The pipe with the rubber hose feeding the lower 5 and then in the picture ( before your house pic ) there is a pipe I thought fed the top 10 chamber. TomC -10f and not suppose to get above 0 f all day. Possibly 10 days of subzero weather— no shop work.

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Did you watch Kalle Anka on Christmas Day? My family is all swedish here in the US but I still don’t get that. I did show my granddaughter some old Donald Duck cartoons on youtube.

It’s not so cold as it used to be here in Vermont. Below zero F tonight but 11F tomorrow.
Gott Nytt Or

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I just watched the walkaround vids. First thing l noticed is it apears Christmas partying left a few marks on yur vocal cords :smile: l thod it was JO Cocker rather thain JO Olsson :smile:

Joke to the side, the sistem looks amazeing. You can see a lot of thod and dedication is in this build.

I was gonna ask if you will insulate/sheald the lower gasifier, you anwsered that one already.

I think you hit jackpot with the nozzle arangement. I was thinking about what you sayd above, on the fact you cant have it all (adjustible restriction diameter). I think you do have it all.

  • You have a expandable oxidation zone with 2 nozzle planes. At full blast on both nozzles, you will acheave litle pressure drop.
  • you have a expandable reduction zone, since you went grateless. As long as you produce enough char with the oxy zone, you can never overpull/overheat your gasifier.
  • and the only thing now that isnt adjustible, is the restriction. I think if you expect a high gas demand drive, you can fill the hopper with wery big fuel. Your big oxy zone will produce enough char fast enough to feed the gasifier, while the char will be big enough to not be wery restrictive in the restriction. You will create a “loose charbed”, but will not overheat becouse the big grateless reduction zone will use the heat. Bullseye.
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Haha! Of course, but I agree it’s a strange tradition :smile:
Gott Nytt År to you too!

Thank you Kristijan for your kind words. I do hope you’re right. I can’t wait to light up for the first time and hear the engine purring :smile:

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JO, I’ve got 2 cents left after Christmas to kind of throw in the pot.

Here are a couple of pictures to show my
solution to water dripping off the domed
hopper lid into the wood.


Top view of hopper lid. The pot lid would seal on the furthest outside rim. Next is a “gutter” with slotted holes in the gutter. The gutter catches the dripping of the domed lid.

On the bottom of the 55 gal. lid is a second disk like lid that is spaced at least 1/2-3/4 in. below. Water that comes through the slotted holes falls onto the disk and runs over to the edge of the hopper where it flows in with the other condensates. TomC ( a picture is worth a 1000 words so two pictures should be worth 2 cents )

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Thanks jo It seems the monerator type hopper is wooking better too rid excess moisture, as the inventer was able too maintain a flare with green 45% persent water content and the reg hopper the flare went out under same conditions.QUESTION, is the inside wall of a monerator hopper go clear too the botom of outer hopper, or how far up from the bottom is the grate working best on a monerator hopper.? And is the iner wall just sitting on flange so it can be removed for cleaning or just rod out for cleaning. Hope i ant asking too many Questains, I am trying too get a full plan on how its built, I READ THE LEAD PETE GAVE ME ABOUT HOW MONERATOR HOPPER WAS STUMBLED ON FOR OTHER REASONS. I JUST DONT HAVE A FULL VEIW OF THE DEDIGN, other than it extends out past the burn tube for cooling perpose, and i think has double wall tha works as cooling shield,steam collector. Does the gas circle out the bottom of the inside wall after it condences out the water. THANKS.

Kevin, I thought I had a better idea by using an double wall hopper rather than the WK style external cooling tubes. It did not work all that well.

I scrapped it and built a single wall hopper with 12 - 1 1/2” cooling tubes. Works great and removes 95% of the moisture and tar. I seldom collect any moisture in the condensate tank from the cooling rack, hay filter or low point in the 3” line to the engine.
But I also seldom add any chunks with more than 15% MC.

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The WK cooler works good as you say, and leaves more space for wood. The monerator looks easyer for smaller vehicle use and lighter. The one jo is building with ss mantel looks good as far as i can see, I dont think he is hideing an extra fuel tank there anyware.

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Hi Kevin, I made my inner wall and funnel one piece. Funnel stands on spacers and ends an inch or two above the firetube. I can lift the whole thing outof the hopper for cleaning.
I’m sure adding cooling tubes would help condencing even more water.

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Thanks JO’ I have a better understanding of how its put together, i like your idea of removable inner wall and funnel DESIGN, every now and then you can take it apart for thouro clean.And like you said the keith cooling tubes design added would certainly add too the outter wall cooling condenceing.BBB.I SEE NOW , why mr. Wayne Keith went with hopper cooling instead of hopper heating,with his nice heat exchanger heat recover. I may build a second WK heat exchanger after the first one that is metal,the second one being aluminum for better yet heat tranfer and cooler exturnal temps when i get the materiel put together.looking good , good luck with your pickup truck hh.co fuel.

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J O
I really like that inner liner and funnel design.

The material looks like Stainless steel and so should last.
Well done!

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Thanks Michael,
The outer hopper is ss but the inner liner is ordinary mild steel barrel material. From what I’ve dicovered so far, on the Rabbit liner, the tar coating protects it from rust. Time will tell.

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Hi JO and the whole DOW-community,

I wish you all a happy new year!

@JO_Olsson, what a nice flare and a neat gasifier! I’m a bit envious on your achievement (in a positive way of course!)
Perfect use of the Christmas holidays :wink:

Regards,
Til

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Thank you Til,
Sorry for a late reply. I´m terrible when it comes to civilized manners.:smile:

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At least you are honest :smile:

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love the quote…

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Maiden voyage.




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I cant stop looking at it. A work of art. When are we geting the rest of the update? :wink:

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